Came across a really good night photography tutorial that doesn't beat around the bush with confusing details. I think this would help a lot with our Photography Assignment that's going on right now.

http://www.photosig.com/articles/671/page1

The article makes some good points, however I have to disagree with his use of Cokin filters. They scratch very easily and aren't known to be very "neutral", even for their gray grad filters. I'd recommend B+W over all the other companies out there - at least they're of fairly good optical quality.

I can't stress the importance of a good tripod, and a cable release. Bogen makes some good ones, but I still like the Carbon Fiber Gitzo tripods. Lightweight (30 percent lighter) and quite strong. They usually can load out about 10 percent more than their aluminum counterparts. EXPENSIVE, but worth every penny, especially if you have to haul a bit of equipment.

Some really good cable releases can be had for about 40 to 50 dollars. Calumet makes one that's pro grade and has a very nice lock feature - no little "setscrew/bolt" design, this one has some heft and will last a long time. Try not to have the cable releases too short - less than a foot. The key here is to reduce any transmitted vibration.

Cokin reference...
http://www.2filter.com/faq/techgradinfo.html


Percy


Came across a really good night photography tutorial that doesn't beat around the bush with confusing details. I think this would help a lot with our Photography Assignment that's going on right now.

http://www.photosig.com/articles/671/page1

Thats some good info there. I guess I should invest in a couple more filters. Thanks guys.

Alex

Some really good cable releases can be had for about 40 to 50 dollars. Calumet makes one that's pro grade and has a very nice lock feature - no little "setscrew/bolt" design, this one has some heft and will last a long time. Try not to have the cable releases too short - less than a foot. The key here is to reduce any transmitted vibration.

Percy what about just using the timer on the camera? Or is the cable release just better because you don't waste so much time for each shot?

Bit,

Good point! That trick will work if you do not have a cable release. Just set for at 2 or 10 seconds to wait for the shake to die down, then have the camera expose for the setting you choose.

The cable release works since you can more rapidly fire off a few shots. If it's a critical application, and you have a mirror lockup, use it.

Percy

Bit,

Good point! That trick will work if you do not have a cable release. Just set for at 2 or 10 seconds to wait for the shake to die down, then have the camera expose for the setting you choose.

The cable release works since you can more rapidly fire off a few shots. If it's a critical application, and you have a mirror lockup, use it.

Percy

Thanks! I do have mirror lockup on my 20D - I take it that locks the mirror 'open' (making the viewfinder out of commission at that point?) and then the only 'vibration' is the shutter opening and closing, is that right?

As far as timer, the 20D only has a 10 second one I think which is kind of lame. I could live more easily with a 2s one like my old Casio had.

Bit,

You got it buddy! Well done! :)

Percy