CT Turbo kits
01-04-10, 06:44 AM
#1
Turbo kits
I'm new to the Lexus group family, however I have had my 98 GS 300 for quite some time. I'm currently looking into doing some engine upgrade to it and would like to know if you all out there in the Lexus world know where I could get a complete Turbo Kit for a 98 GS 300 that will be complete and from a reputable company that won't blow up after a few miles have been made around town with the new upgrades.
I have gotten a quote from SRT racing about a kit they offer for about 6K and would like to know if anyone has this set up and how is it doing at this point into your purchase of it.
I have gotten a quote from SRT racing about a kit they offer for about 6K and would like to know if anyone has this set up and how is it doing at this point into your purchase of it.
01-04-10, 08:59 AM
#2
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I'm new to the Lexus group family, however I have had my 98 GS 300 for quite some time. I'm currently looking into doing some engine upgrade to it and would like to know if you all out there in the Lexus world know where I could get a complete Turbo Kit for a 98 GS 300 that will be complete and from a reputable company that won't blow up after a few miles have been made around town with the new upgrades.
I have gotten a quote from SRT racing about a kit they offer for about 6K and would like to know if anyone has this set up and how is it doing at this point into your purchase of it.
I have gotten a quote from SRT racing about a kit they offer for about 6K and would like to know if anyone has this set up and how is it doing at this point into your purchase of it.
01-05-10, 03:27 AM
#4
Kit Includes:
2JZ-GE Tubular T304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold
SRT Spec'd Precision Turbo good for upto 680BHP
Large Wastegate
Blitz® Super Sound Dual Drive blow-off valve
Stainless Steel braided oil supply line with SRT exclusive oil supply tee
High Temp oil drain line
4" High flow lifetime cone filter
Haltech F10X Full Standalone Fuel Computer w/all sensors
Ladies and gentlemen this is a standalone ECU not a piggyback
Comes with basemaps for a successful install
3Bar Map Sensor
(good for upto 32PSI boost, never have to upgraded again)
870cc Injectors
(good for upto 850RWHP, never have to be upgraded again)
Walbro® 255lph High Pressure intank fuel pump
All Mandrel bent FULL POLISHED aluminum intercooler piping w/bead rolled ends
(Polished is standard equipment for a fantastic show car quality)
Huge 22.5"x12"x3" Front Mount Intercooler rated at 650+HP
2.5mm Multi Layered Steel Head Gasket for higher boost (standard equipment)
ARP Head Stud kit (standard equipment)
15-17PSI Maximum Boost Pump Gas
(installation of Head Gasket required above 9PSI)
High Temp 4-layered silicone couplers and connectors
(4 layers for added reliability and durability)
Stainless Steel High Grade clamps
NGK Performance Iridium Spark Plugs, 1 step colder
(Iridium for longer life and better performance)
3" Mandrel bent T304 SS race downpipe
3" Mandrel bent T304 SS front midpipe
All necessary hardware for a complete install is supplied
(every single nut, bolt, zip ties etc. is supplied)
Complete Step-by-Step Installation Instructions with High Quality Color
Pictures provided in CD-Rom
2JZ-GE Tubular T304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold
SRT Spec'd Precision Turbo good for upto 680BHP
Large Wastegate
Blitz® Super Sound Dual Drive blow-off valve
Stainless Steel braided oil supply line with SRT exclusive oil supply tee
High Temp oil drain line
4" High flow lifetime cone filter
Haltech F10X Full Standalone Fuel Computer w/all sensors
Ladies and gentlemen this is a standalone ECU not a piggyback
Comes with basemaps for a successful install
3Bar Map Sensor
(good for upto 32PSI boost, never have to upgraded again)
870cc Injectors
(good for upto 850RWHP, never have to be upgraded again)
Walbro® 255lph High Pressure intank fuel pump
All Mandrel bent FULL POLISHED aluminum intercooler piping w/bead rolled ends
(Polished is standard equipment for a fantastic show car quality)
Huge 22.5"x12"x3" Front Mount Intercooler rated at 650+HP
2.5mm Multi Layered Steel Head Gasket for higher boost (standard equipment)
ARP Head Stud kit (standard equipment)
15-17PSI Maximum Boost Pump Gas
(installation of Head Gasket required above 9PSI)
High Temp 4-layered silicone couplers and connectors
(4 layers for added reliability and durability)
Stainless Steel High Grade clamps
NGK Performance Iridium Spark Plugs, 1 step colder
(Iridium for longer life and better performance)
3" Mandrel bent T304 SS race downpipe
3" Mandrel bent T304 SS front midpipe
All necessary hardware for a complete install is supplied
(every single nut, bolt, zip ties etc. is supplied)
Complete Step-by-Step Installation Instructions with High Quality Color
Pictures provided in CD-Rom
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01-05-10, 12:26 PM
#8
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True the ge's weakness is its rods and pistons which can be fortified and if you do a little head work you got yourself a beast. Hell I've been boosted for over a year and the only problem I have is i keep blowing manifold gaskets for some stupid reason but that is it. Once you get a taste of boost its like sex you want more and more that is why in my earlier post I said think of 6k as a minimum investment but that kit is a good foundation to build on
01-06-10, 12:17 AM
#11
Okay while I wasn't trying to start an argument about the hole thing, I can understand difference of opinion's on this however the N/A engine could be reinforced with different Pistons, And the necessary engine upgrade that you would in turn have done to the 2jz-gte motor if your going to be playing with it, at what would be the same if not less that buying the hole engine. Unless your going to get everything with that GTE motor which doesn't seem like the case with some of the prices that they are selling a none abused one for, to included all the necessary engine management hardware and wiring.
I was more wondering or better yet asking since it would seem like you guys have been at it for quite a while if their was a complete kit so you won't be looking for piece's here or their to complete the project once it has been started and since you guys have been at it for quite some time, and a few have done it how did you go about accomplishing the task at hand.And how much did these kits cost. By the way while I'm not privileged to have pulled down my motor in my car, I was a mechanic in the USAF for 7 1/2 years on diesel and heavy equipment so basically just got out looking to take on something a bit more entertaining while I'm going to school.
I was more wondering or better yet asking since it would seem like you guys have been at it for quite a while if their was a complete kit so you won't be looking for piece's here or their to complete the project once it has been started and since you guys have been at it for quite some time, and a few have done it how did you go about accomplishing the task at hand.And how much did these kits cost. By the way while I'm not privileged to have pulled down my motor in my car, I was a mechanic in the USAF for 7 1/2 years on diesel and heavy equipment so basically just got out looking to take on something a bit more entertaining while I'm going to school.
01-06-10, 01:56 AM
#12
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Obviously putting one down over the other, I don't think is a good start. Each has it benefits. It depends on what you want to do and what your ultimate goal is. Definitely deciding on what you plan to do with the car and what you want to get out of all the modifications... Then, I would decide what to do next. Sometimes a kit is good, sometime a swap is good, but it depends on what you want in the end. Also consider looking into Aristo front clips, I remember being able to find them for $1.5k low miles and unmolested.
01-06-10, 11:31 AM
#15
There's nothing wrong with getting a NA-T for the stock 2JZ-GE. As long as you keep the power levels around 375-400rwhp, there should never be any serious issues. Just make sure a competent tuner dials in the car. FYI: 375-400rwhp is a lot more power than many here will ever need.
Japspec, I think you're on My.IS right? If so, of all the people on the IS board. Even ones that have GTE swaps and NA-T on GTE internals. Only a small handful pass the 450-500rwhp mark. So am I right that 375-400whp is more than enough to satisfy MOST peoples needs? Of course I'm not the majority, I'm shooting for 1kRwhp soon
Japspec, I think you're on My.IS right? If so, of all the people on the IS board. Even ones that have GTE swaps and NA-T on GTE internals. Only a small handful pass the 450-500rwhp mark. So am I right that 375-400whp is more than enough to satisfy MOST peoples needs? Of course I'm not the majority, I'm shooting for 1kRwhp soon