Engine Check Light = $1200?
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My 1999 RX300's engine check light turned on recently, and I went to a shop that specializes only in Lexus vehicles. Being unfamiliar and ignorant about car maintenance and repair, I gave the go ahead to start running the tests and look for the problem even though the estimate I received for the absolute worst case scenario was $1200. Well, from all of the mumble jumble I was told, something was wrong with the EVAP and they had to look at each sensor to see if they were giving the right readings. Two codes popped up (forgot which ones).
By the way, I didn't understand much of what they were saying so my post might sound like they were being vague when I'm trying to repeat it.
Apparently, the sensor on the charcoal canister is completely dead. The only way to fix this is to replace the sensor, but the sensor isn't sold separately. The Charcoal canister will cost me $541 to replace. I saw them do the test in front of me so I guess I know it doesn't work, but I don't know if the sensor isn't sold separately.
Also, a long, long, long time ago the cabin air filter was not put back when it was in for maintenance. Some time back, a CD fell in that empty area and got shredded on the air filter. It made some weird noise so I turned the engine off and removed all the pieces. Or I thought I did but one the mechanics pulled out a small shard of the shiny disc. Could this have been an issue?
They had to drop the gas tank and the glove box for checking all of the sensors. This is what's eating up the labor cost.
Either way, one of the codes is fixable with a new charcoal canister. They told me the repair was about 90% finished. So far the bill is at $1024. That's $483 worth of labor the mentioned above. I believe I got ripped off with the labor charge since they "worked on it for 5 hours" or however long. Does it take this long? Is this even normal to cost this much?
This is my first time dealing with an auto mechanic and I understand that I didn't really do my research and go about it the best way possible, but my questions is: how badly am I getting ripped off? When I get the codes, I'll post them for a more accurate estimate. I live in Santa Barbara, CA, which is part of Central California.
P.S. As a bonus, my stupidity lead me to go to Jiffy Lube a few times, which turned out to be a huge mistake since the guy told me the car had the wrong type of oil in it.
By the way, I didn't understand much of what they were saying so my post might sound like they were being vague when I'm trying to repeat it.
Apparently, the sensor on the charcoal canister is completely dead. The only way to fix this is to replace the sensor, but the sensor isn't sold separately. The Charcoal canister will cost me $541 to replace. I saw them do the test in front of me so I guess I know it doesn't work, but I don't know if the sensor isn't sold separately.
Also, a long, long, long time ago the cabin air filter was not put back when it was in for maintenance. Some time back, a CD fell in that empty area and got shredded on the air filter. It made some weird noise so I turned the engine off and removed all the pieces. Or I thought I did but one the mechanics pulled out a small shard of the shiny disc. Could this have been an issue?
They had to drop the gas tank and the glove box for checking all of the sensors. This is what's eating up the labor cost.
Either way, one of the codes is fixable with a new charcoal canister. They told me the repair was about 90% finished. So far the bill is at $1024. That's $483 worth of labor the mentioned above. I believe I got ripped off with the labor charge since they "worked on it for 5 hours" or however long. Does it take this long? Is this even normal to cost this much?
This is my first time dealing with an auto mechanic and I understand that I didn't really do my research and go about it the best way possible, but my questions is: how badly am I getting ripped off? When I get the codes, I'll post them for a more accurate estimate. I live in Santa Barbara, CA, which is part of Central California.
P.S. As a bonus, my stupidity lead me to go to Jiffy Lube a few times, which turned out to be a huge mistake since the guy told me the car had the wrong type of oil in it.
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Last edited by Mut; 01-02-08 at 06:30 PM.
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Uh, yea I would say they are ripping you. Probably just needed the gas cap replaced or re seated. Maybe a hose off up by the air box. The charcoal canisters rarely have problems. I could be wrong, but I don't remember any sensors in the canister itself. Can't think what you would need to do in the glove box either??
So someone left the cabin filter out and the cover for the filter and a CD fell in? Where did they put the extra pieces??
How do you determine that oil in a car is the "wrong" oil??
This thread would have helped: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=326965
Just my opinion, but I would bet a lot of $$ the canister is fine.
So someone left the cabin filter out and the cover for the filter and a CD fell in? Where did they put the extra pieces??
How do you determine that oil in a car is the "wrong" oil??
This thread would have helped: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=326965
Just my opinion, but I would bet a lot of $$ the canister is fine.
#3
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The 99 did have some canister problems, and there was a service bulletin on it. The price is way out of bed....And it does not take that long to change.....The canister is $389 from park place Lexus in Plano TEXAS. And that is the Lexus price. By the way next time go to Autozone auto parts and get the codes read for free, then post them and gain the knowledge from members here....Knowledge is king when dealing with mechanics, they wont rip you then.
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The 99 did have some canister problems, and there was a service bulletin on it. The price is way out of bed....And it does not take that long to change.....The canister is $389 from park place Lexus in Plano TEXAS. And that is the Lexus price. By the way next time go to Autozone auto parts and get the codes read for free, then post them and gain the knowledge from members here....Knowledge is king when dealing with mechanics, they wont rip you then.
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The good thing about auto repairs is the consent for repairs and estimated cost.
With labor charge around $100 an hour, the 5 hrs of labor charge seems OK. Parts cost can be confirmed by calling the Lexus dealer shop or looking up the retail cost from web supplier.
How much labor is time is needed for each repair is also listed in a work book.
The only thing that is hard to establish, is what was the actual needed repair and where the shop just wasted time in trouble shooting. You can discuss the bill with the shop, and argue that the labor charge is due to incompetence of mechanic. Keep in mind, the shop makes a cut on labor charge, but they most probably have paid the mechanic already ... and you agreed to the estimate.
At times it is better to pay more (dealership) where they might have diagnosed the problem lot quicker.
Salim
With labor charge around $100 an hour, the 5 hrs of labor charge seems OK. Parts cost can be confirmed by calling the Lexus dealer shop or looking up the retail cost from web supplier.
How much labor is time is needed for each repair is also listed in a work book.
The only thing that is hard to establish, is what was the actual needed repair and where the shop just wasted time in trouble shooting. You can discuss the bill with the shop, and argue that the labor charge is due to incompetence of mechanic. Keep in mind, the shop makes a cut on labor charge, but they most probably have paid the mechanic already ... and you agreed to the estimate.
At times it is better to pay more (dealership) where they might have diagnosed the problem lot quicker.
Salim
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The broken cd in the cabin (recirc) air filter has nothing to do with check engine light.
Salim
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Hey Mut,
I was the one who posted question about check engine light being on. (you can see my thread from above)
I just wanted to let you know how my situation is going.
(I think we both are not "car" guys and have less knowledge of our vehicles than others on this forum
)
After getting the 3 different codes from the advanced autoparts and replacing a gas cap for 6 dollars, I took my car (2000 RX300) to bodyshop (not toyota nor lexus, rather a local bodyshop) to have things checked out again.
They ran scanner again and came up with code P0440, evap emission control system malfunction.
One of the mechanic told me same thing what your mechanic told you, that they have to check different valves to find out which one is causing trouble.
They told me it would be okay for me to drive for time being. In fact, they said I can drive as long as I would like with this situation.
Only problem would be is that, come Nov, 2008, when my state inspection time comes, it could require me to fix the problem as part of emission check up.
I just recently purchased my vehicle from a local dealership (about 2 weeks ago, and not from lexus) and they assured me that everything was in good condition when we signed paper and paid money.
Well, today, I took the car as well as the codes I've got from the bodyshop to them and said such a problem could never have been created by us, when we only drove car around for 2 weeks with 150-200 miles put on.
Good thing is that they told us it will be taken care of.
So, I am planning to make an arrangement with bodyshop and get my car fixed.
Let me tell you Mut, this clublexus forum has been nothing but a perfect website for me and my family ever since we purchased our car
For not being a "car" guy, I had so many questions (I still do...
), yet everytime I post something here, starting with LEXMEX and SALIM, everyone who has more knowledge than me, are more than willing to help me with every possible way.
Now, I am not sure if I can manage my RX300 without asking questions to people on this forum.
I learned from LEXMEX to have check engine light scanned at the autozone. (advanced autoparts was closer for me)
After that, I posted my codes here and gathered some information and took them to bodyshop.
I hope your situation turns out better in the future and that you have learned a valuable lesson, just like I did, by visiting this website
I was the one who posted question about check engine light being on. (you can see my thread from above)
I just wanted to let you know how my situation is going.
(I think we both are not "car" guys and have less knowledge of our vehicles than others on this forum
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After getting the 3 different codes from the advanced autoparts and replacing a gas cap for 6 dollars, I took my car (2000 RX300) to bodyshop (not toyota nor lexus, rather a local bodyshop) to have things checked out again.
They ran scanner again and came up with code P0440, evap emission control system malfunction.
One of the mechanic told me same thing what your mechanic told you, that they have to check different valves to find out which one is causing trouble.
They told me it would be okay for me to drive for time being. In fact, they said I can drive as long as I would like with this situation.
Only problem would be is that, come Nov, 2008, when my state inspection time comes, it could require me to fix the problem as part of emission check up.
I just recently purchased my vehicle from a local dealership (about 2 weeks ago, and not from lexus) and they assured me that everything was in good condition when we signed paper and paid money.
Well, today, I took the car as well as the codes I've got from the bodyshop to them and said such a problem could never have been created by us, when we only drove car around for 2 weeks with 150-200 miles put on.
Good thing is that they told us it will be taken care of.
So, I am planning to make an arrangement with bodyshop and get my car fixed.
Let me tell you Mut, this clublexus forum has been nothing but a perfect website for me and my family ever since we purchased our car
For not being a "car" guy, I had so many questions (I still do...
![Sad](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/sad.gif)
Now, I am not sure if I can manage my RX300 without asking questions to people on this forum.
I learned from LEXMEX to have check engine light scanned at the autozone. (advanced autoparts was closer for me)
After that, I posted my codes here and gathered some information and took them to bodyshop.
I hope your situation turns out better in the future and that you have learned a valuable lesson, just like I did, by visiting this website
Last edited by SHY820424; 01-03-08 at 01:32 AM.
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Well, I am sure you can see my thread below about check engine light trouble.
I just wanted to give everyone an update on my vehicle.
I took my car to the bodyshop today and they scanned it again and got the code P0440, evap emission control system malfunction.
They informed me that in order for them to fix the problem ,they would have to check different valves to find the source of the problem. But they told me I could drive the car and it should not give me any trouble.
In fact, they told me I can drive the car forever without having a problem, except when I have to go through state inspection on Nov,2008, as it would require the emission test.
Everyone who have read my previous threads may know, but I only purchased my vehicle 2 weeks ago and have put only about 200 miles on.
When I purchased car, the guy who sold me vehicle, assured me of the car not having any trouble. Well, after what had happened, I took my car and the codes I have got to him and said, "there would be no way this problem was caused by me" and he somehow agreed.
He told me that he knows the guy at the bodyshop (He was the one who refered me to the bodyshop in the first place) and will tell mechanic to fix it.
He said he will take full responsibility of the cost and said he was sorry.
Now, this was what happened to me today.
After reading post from Mut, about replacing charcoal canister for $1200.00, I am starting to wonder....
Could that happen to my vehicle as well? I notices that his model was 1999 whereas mine is 2000.
How common is it that entire charcoal canister have to be replaced?
I know I won't be responsible for whatever the cost may be to fix the car, but
was wondering if replacing canister was possibility.
Thanks all for reading my long long post...
Anyone with info, please let me know...thanx
I just wanted to give everyone an update on my vehicle.
I took my car to the bodyshop today and they scanned it again and got the code P0440, evap emission control system malfunction.
They informed me that in order for them to fix the problem ,they would have to check different valves to find the source of the problem. But they told me I could drive the car and it should not give me any trouble.
In fact, they told me I can drive the car forever without having a problem, except when I have to go through state inspection on Nov,2008, as it would require the emission test.
Everyone who have read my previous threads may know, but I only purchased my vehicle 2 weeks ago and have put only about 200 miles on.
When I purchased car, the guy who sold me vehicle, assured me of the car not having any trouble. Well, after what had happened, I took my car and the codes I have got to him and said, "there would be no way this problem was caused by me" and he somehow agreed.
He told me that he knows the guy at the bodyshop (He was the one who refered me to the bodyshop in the first place) and will tell mechanic to fix it.
He said he will take full responsibility of the cost and said he was sorry.
Now, this was what happened to me today.
After reading post from Mut, about replacing charcoal canister for $1200.00, I am starting to wonder....
Could that happen to my vehicle as well? I notices that his model was 1999 whereas mine is 2000.
How common is it that entire charcoal canister have to be replaced?
I know I won't be responsible for whatever the cost may be to fix the car, but
was wondering if replacing canister was possibility.
Thanks all for reading my long long post...
Anyone with info, please let me know...thanx
Last edited by SHY820424; 01-03-08 at 01:22 AM.
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Total cost was $1,550. Codes were P0171 and P0450. It took 7.5 hours of labor ($98/hour). $542 for the charcoal canister and $189 for Mass Air Flow sensor? Is this right/normal?
Last edited by Mut; 01-07-08 at 02:49 PM.
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I think the charcoal canister could probably run just under 500 and that maf should run closer to around 125. Labor seems a bit high per hour, should be at or under 80 or so.
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I agree with thomas1 on the time, they might have taken more than an hour to install some lines to the charcoal canister (not sure exactly what they did without seeing it), but 7.5 hours sounds like the way an attorney bills (take it from someone who knows).
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Just got back from the place. The bill says:
P0171: Ran fuel pressure test checking proper pressure and output-OK. Ran resistance check front and rear air/fuel ratio sensors connect scan tool to data link connector start engine and raise engine speed to 2500 RPM for approx 90 seconds and monitor each A/F sensor output voltage. At engine idling, racing outputs are within specifications and OK // Removed air intake chamber and inspect inside found carbon and ash deposited inside - using fuel injector cleaner and cleaned throttle body // Removed and inspect mass air flow sensor and found MAF sensor was not responding - removed and replaced defective sensor.
Hours worked on: 3.
P4050: EVAP control pressure sensor problem access ECM harness connectors behind glove box, turn ignition on backprobing ECM harness connector, measure voltage between terminals NO. 2 and NO. 18 at ECM E6 connector and voltage @ 5.1 and OK within range, disconnect vacuum hose from vapor pressure sensor, sensor has 2 vacuum ports and is mounted on charcoal canister underneath rear of vehicle connected a vacuum pump to sensor and check voltage (without applied vacuum) 3.2 voltage and check voltage with applied vacuum .042 voltage: and supposed to be at least .5 volt age. Due to this voltage is not as specified: ALS check for open or short in wiring harness between vapor pressure sensor and ECM. Sid not see any problem in harness. Due to this low voltage: determined to be bad sensor, comes with complete charcoal canister. Removed and replaced complete charcoal canister assy. Clear codes and reset computer.
Hours worked on: 4.5
Mass Air Flow Sensor: $190
Complete Charcoal Canistor: $542
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He explained to me that replacing the parts took less than an hour but to find out exactly what's wrong took so long.
P0171: Ran fuel pressure test checking proper pressure and output-OK. Ran resistance check front and rear air/fuel ratio sensors connect scan tool to data link connector start engine and raise engine speed to 2500 RPM for approx 90 seconds and monitor each A/F sensor output voltage. At engine idling, racing outputs are within specifications and OK // Removed air intake chamber and inspect inside found carbon and ash deposited inside - using fuel injector cleaner and cleaned throttle body // Removed and inspect mass air flow sensor and found MAF sensor was not responding - removed and replaced defective sensor.
Hours worked on: 3.
P4050: EVAP control pressure sensor problem access ECM harness connectors behind glove box, turn ignition on backprobing ECM harness connector, measure voltage between terminals NO. 2 and NO. 18 at ECM E6 connector and voltage @ 5.1 and OK within range, disconnect vacuum hose from vapor pressure sensor, sensor has 2 vacuum ports and is mounted on charcoal canister underneath rear of vehicle connected a vacuum pump to sensor and check voltage (without applied vacuum) 3.2 voltage and check voltage with applied vacuum .042 voltage: and supposed to be at least .5 volt age. Due to this voltage is not as specified: ALS check for open or short in wiring harness between vapor pressure sensor and ECM. Sid not see any problem in harness. Due to this low voltage: determined to be bad sensor, comes with complete charcoal canister. Removed and replaced complete charcoal canister assy. Clear codes and reset computer.
Hours worked on: 4.5
Mass Air Flow Sensor: $190
Complete Charcoal Canistor: $542
![Sad](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/sad.gif)
He explained to me that replacing the parts took less than an hour but to find out exactly what's wrong took so long.
#15
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in those cases, the dealer would have been cheaper. they would have charged an two hours total for diag. time, as they have seen those problems many times. then you would have had .5 hour labor to r&r the mass air sensor and probably another hour for the charcoal canister.
so 3.5 hours total plus parts at the dealer.
private shops are cheaper for stuff like brakes, cv joints and other mechanicals but for electronic diag work, the dealer is usually the btter deal.
so 3.5 hours total plus parts at the dealer.
private shops are cheaper for stuff like brakes, cv joints and other mechanicals but for electronic diag work, the dealer is usually the btter deal.