DIY: Repair broken reluctor ring (tone ring)
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
DIY: Repair broken reluctor ring (tone ring)
## Background
My reluctor ring (tone ring) was broken on rear driver's side.
Initially I found the wheels would chatter or grind when I was braking and turning. It took a while to figure out and in fact I took it to the dealer who told me I had a broken reluctor ring also called a tone ring.
There's a lot of threads on the symptoms of a broken reluctor ring and I don't want to rehash all of it here.
Older posts:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l-braking.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ue-update.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-grinding.html
Newer posts:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ing-noise.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...e-problem.html
My reluctor ring (tone ring) was broken on rear driver's side.
Initially I found the wheels would chatter or grind when I was braking and turning. It took a while to figure out and in fact I took it to the dealer who told me I had a broken reluctor ring also called a tone ring.
There's a lot of threads on the symptoms of a broken reluctor ring and I don't want to rehash all of it here.
Older posts:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l-braking.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ue-update.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-grinding.html
Newer posts:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ing-noise.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...e-problem.html
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
## Preparation
This job isn't too bad once you've completed it. Until then, it can seem daunting. It certainly is a DIY job but there's always a risk that something will go wrong eg. broken bolt. That's part of the fun. :-)
Standard disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage or injury resulting from this repair. Please proceed at your own risk and if you don't feel comfortable with it take it to a shop.
Regular tools:
flathead screwdriver
3/8" socket wrench
14mm socket
4" extension bar
1/2" breaker bar
hammer and mallet
shop light
parts container
high temperature bearing grease
Special tools:
30mm 1/2" deep socket is needed to remove axle nut.
I was able to rent this from AutoZone for $20. Return it within 90-days and you get a full refund. Or purchase a new one for $13.
Epoxying:
4" hose clamp
metal-to-metal epoxy - 15 minute setup is good
Other:
References:
http://www.evilution.co.uk/453
Google "abs reluctor rings" to find merchants who sell new rings.
Some of the photos show the brake caliper removed and rotor removed. It is completely unnecessary to remove them. The brakes don't get in the way at all with this job.
This job isn't too bad once you've completed it. Until then, it can seem daunting. It certainly is a DIY job but there's always a risk that something will go wrong eg. broken bolt. That's part of the fun. :-)
Standard disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage or injury resulting from this repair. Please proceed at your own risk and if you don't feel comfortable with it take it to a shop.
Regular tools:
flathead screwdriver
3/8" socket wrench
14mm socket
4" extension bar
1/2" breaker bar
hammer and mallet
shop light
parts container
high temperature bearing grease
Special tools:
30mm 1/2" deep socket is needed to remove axle nut.
I was able to rent this from AutoZone for $20. Return it within 90-days and you get a full refund. Or purchase a new one for $13.
Epoxying:
4" hose clamp
metal-to-metal epoxy - 15 minute setup is good
Other:
References:
http://www.evilution.co.uk/453
Google "abs reluctor rings" to find merchants who sell new rings.
Some of the photos show the brake caliper removed and rotor removed. It is completely unnecessary to remove them. The brakes don't get in the way at all with this job.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:44 PM.
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
## Axle Nut Loosening
Using a flathead screwdriver pry off the wheel cap with the Lexus logo. Let the top of the "L" be 12 o'clock, then avoid prying at the 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock positions as there's plastic there. Anyway it's easy to remove.
Using a flathead screwdriver pry off the wheel cap with the Lexus logo. Let the top of the "L" be 12 o'clock, then avoid prying at the 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock positions as there's plastic there. Anyway it's easy to remove.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:46 PM.
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Remove the cotter pin with pliers and screwdriver and slide off the lock nut.
Put the 30 mm deep socket with a 1/2” breaker bar on the axle nut. Put the breaker bar in the 9 o’clock position and push down on breaker bar to loosen the nut. You may need to stand on it. Just loosen it; don’t remove it all the way for now.
Put the 30 mm deep socket with a 1/2” breaker bar on the axle nut. Put the breaker bar in the 9 o’clock position and push down on breaker bar to loosen the nut. You may need to stand on it. Just loosen it; don’t remove it all the way for now.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:48 PM.
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
## Wheel removal
Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle and support rear end of vehicle with jacks or blocks. Use either the cross-member to support the rear of the car or the side where the spare-tire jack markers are. Remove wheel. See thread for jack positions.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ack-point.html
Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle and support rear end of vehicle with jacks or blocks. Use either the cross-member to support the rear of the car or the side where the spare-tire jack markers are. Remove wheel. See thread for jack positions.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ack-point.html
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
## Loosen differential-to-axle shaft nuts
Mark where the axle flange and differential meet. You want to put the axle back on at the same place you took it off. Some white paint would work. I just scraped the metal flange and differential to create a line.
To remove the differential-to-axle shaft mounting nuts, first spray them with PB Blaster. Then use a 14mm six-sided socket and a breaker bar to loosen them. Use the 4" extension bar to clear the C/V rubber boot collar.
After loosening two nuts I put the car in neutral and rotated the axle about 180 degrees, put it back in Park to remove the other two nuts.
To help turn the axle, put at least two lug nuts back on to prevent damaging threads. Then put a hammer or bar between the two and turn the wheel.
Mark where the axle flange and differential meet. You want to put the axle back on at the same place you took it off. Some white paint would work. I just scraped the metal flange and differential to create a line.
To remove the differential-to-axle shaft mounting nuts, first spray them with PB Blaster. Then use a 14mm six-sided socket and a breaker bar to loosen them. Use the 4" extension bar to clear the C/V rubber boot collar.
After loosening two nuts I put the car in neutral and rotated the axle about 180 degrees, put it back in Park to remove the other two nuts.
To help turn the axle, put at least two lug nuts back on to prevent damaging threads. Then put a hammer or bar between the two and turn the wheel.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:49 PM.
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
## Remove axle from differential-to-axle shaft bolts
The manual says to remove the mounting lug bolts but I found it’s not necessary. I was able to remove the axle by pushing the axle, with some force, towards the hub. There's enough play to slip the axle over the lug bolts.
A couple of tips here. First, make sure the axle lug bolts are in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position as in photo. It will make getting the axle off easier. Second when you push the axle towards the hub and clear the lug bolts, move the axle upwards, not downwards. Once you get some play you'll be able to get it past the bolts. The photo shows the axle turned a little and sitting off the bolts.
Place the axle on a block of wood to keep it upright and not strain the C/V joints.
The manual says to remove the mounting lug bolts but I found it’s not necessary. I was able to remove the axle by pushing the axle, with some force, towards the hub. There's enough play to slip the axle over the lug bolts.
A couple of tips here. First, make sure the axle lug bolts are in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position as in photo. It will make getting the axle off easier. Second when you push the axle towards the hub and clear the lug bolts, move the axle upwards, not downwards. Once you get some play you'll be able to get it past the bolts. The photo shows the axle turned a little and sitting off the bolts.
Place the axle on a block of wood to keep it upright and not strain the C/V joints.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:51 PM.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
A quick side note. It is tight to get the axle over the bolts and in fact I scratched up the end of the axle. The photo shows one scratch about 5 o'clock but the flash masks most of it. It's just a few surface scratches.
And in case you are wondering, I did pound on the lug bolts extensively with a punch but they wouldn’t budge. They are seized on with lots of rust and wouldn’t come out. I also didn't want to damage the differential. So to avoid unnecessary work, I wouldn’t try to remove them.
And in case you are wondering, I did pound on the lug bolts extensively with a punch but they wouldn’t budge. They are seized on with lots of rust and wouldn’t come out. I also didn't want to damage the differential. So to avoid unnecessary work, I wouldn’t try to remove them.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:52 PM.
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
## Remove axle from hub
The axle is in hub tight and needs to be knocked out. To prevent damaging the axle threads, unscrew the axle nut to the point where it covers the end of the threads as shown in photo.
Then pound the end of the axle with a small sledge hammer just to loosen it. Don’t pop the axle fully out of the hub as you don’t want to damage the spindles; just knock it gently and it will move in. Then crawl under the car and pull the axle out.
Note I did use a piece of wood between sledge and end of axle but found it wouldn't budge. Oddly enough, just a gentle tap with the sledge and axle came out of hub.
The axle is in hub tight and needs to be knocked out. To prevent damaging the axle threads, unscrew the axle nut to the point where it covers the end of the threads as shown in photo.
Then pound the end of the axle with a small sledge hammer just to loosen it. Don’t pop the axle fully out of the hub as you don’t want to damage the spindles; just knock it gently and it will move in. Then crawl under the car and pull the axle out.
Note I did use a piece of wood between sledge and end of axle but found it wouldn't budge. Oddly enough, just a gentle tap with the sledge and axle came out of hub.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:53 PM.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Since I knew I’d be working on the axle for at least a day, I covered both the axle and differential with paper towels to keep out bugs, etc.
At this point the axle is out. If you plan to replace it, you can skip the next part on epoxying and just go to reassembly with the new axle.
====================================================
At this point the axle is out. If you plan to replace it, you can skip the next part on epoxying and just go to reassembly with the new axle.
====================================================
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:54 PM.
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
Now that the axle is removed bring it to your shop bench. Rest the axle on wood blocks or a vice to prevent the rubber C/V boots from getting damaged. The axle is fairly heavy and as you turn it you want to prevent the boots from getting scuffed up as much as possible.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:54 PM.
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
## Removal of the tone ring
I'm not sure how pliable the tone ring is and I didn't want to bend it any more than I had to and snapping it (again.) :-)
You can see the the tone ring is held in place between two thin collars/rims of metal. I was able to work the ring over the outside collar without expanding the ring too much.
Starting at the break, carefully pry the ring over the outside rim using a small screwdriver. Keep your hand on the tone ring to prevent it from snapping back into the groove. Move your hand around pushing more of the ring over the outside rim.
I'm not sure how pliable the tone ring is and I didn't want to bend it any more than I had to and snapping it (again.) :-)
You can see the the tone ring is held in place between two thin collars/rims of metal. I was able to work the ring over the outside collar without expanding the ring too much.
Starting at the break, carefully pry the ring over the outside rim using a small screwdriver. Keep your hand on the tone ring to prevent it from snapping back into the groove. Move your hand around pushing more of the ring over the outside rim.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:55 PM.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
With the ring off notice the small bead or ridge on the inside of the ring. This ridge goes towards the outside of the axle and fits down into the groove.
If you purchased a new ring you will have to flatten the outside rim [partially?] in order to push the new tone ring on.
If you purchased a new ring you will have to flatten the outside rim [partially?] in order to push the new tone ring on.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:56 PM.
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
Once the ring is off clean up both the groove on the axle and the ring.
I cleaned up the ring by using basic solvents, sand paper and steel wool. I also used an exacto blade to scrape some kind of adhesive on the inside of the ring.
I cleaned up the ring by using basic solvents, sand paper and steel wool. I also used an exacto blade to scrape some kind of adhesive on the inside of the ring.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:57 PM.
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
As for the axle, it was cleaned using a steel brush and Dremel tool with various bits, a file, steel wool and sandpaper.
The metal casing the ring sits in is pretty thin so be careful with the Dremel tool and don't apply too much pressure.
It looks like the ring is held in place using some kind of adhesive and that’s what my friend was taking off the axle.
The metal casing the ring sits in is pretty thin so be careful with the Dremel tool and don't apply too much pressure.
It looks like the ring is held in place using some kind of adhesive and that’s what my friend was taking off the axle.
Last edited by 81corolla; 07-19-10 at 09:58 PM.