New oem alternator belt - noise
#1
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New oem alternator belt - noise
For my 2000 rx my original belt was making a lot of noise, one day it broke. I replaced it with an OEM belt, the screeching just won't go away.
My inlaw says the belt is not digging into the belt grooves enough, he is a heavy duty mechanic.
Anyone with these oem belt has issues?
I'm planning to try some other brand, Goodyear has a belt called gratorback, any recommendation of which brand to try.
Thanks.
My inlaw says the belt is not digging into the belt grooves enough, he is a heavy duty mechanic.
Anyone with these oem belt has issues?
I'm planning to try some other brand, Goodyear has a belt called gratorback, any recommendation of which brand to try.
Thanks.
#2
Moderator
Are you using a gauge to set tension? What about alternator bearings?
Salim
Salim
#3
Lexus Champion
For my 2000 rx my original belt was making a lot of noise, one day it broke. I replaced it with an OEM belt, the screeching just won't go away.
My inlaw says the belt is not digging into the belt grooves enough, he is a heavy duty mechanic.
Anyone with these oem belt has issues?
I'm planning to try some other brand, Goodyear has a belt called gratorback, any recommendation of which brand to try.
Thanks.
My inlaw says the belt is not digging into the belt grooves enough, he is a heavy duty mechanic.
Anyone with these oem belt has issues?
I'm planning to try some other brand, Goodyear has a belt called gratorback, any recommendation of which brand to try.
Thanks.
Last edited by code58; 10-07-10 at 11:52 PM.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
I've seen compressor clutches lock-up first than alternators, but always a possibility.
Can you provide a sound clip?
Did you check the power steering belt if it has proper tension and belt condition?
Can you provide a sound clip?
Did you check the power steering belt if it has proper tension and belt condition?
#5
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I have had the alternator checked in a shop, they said it was fine, but I asked them to replace both the bearings.
After this I put the OEM belt for both the alternator & power steering.
The noise was gone except once in a while there were some screeching noise for a few secs or so, after some hundreds of miles the noise lasted a bit more; I re-tensioned the belt; became better; now its getting bad again; I almost have no room to tension, if I do the bolt might just come off, its that close.
I usually have the a/c on all the time, when I switch off the a/c the sound goes off........but sometimes the sound comes on even with the a/c off, so the sound comes on even with the a/c clutch not engaged.
I will try to record the noise and post a clip.
After this I put the OEM belt for both the alternator & power steering.
The noise was gone except once in a while there were some screeching noise for a few secs or so, after some hundreds of miles the noise lasted a bit more; I re-tensioned the belt; became better; now its getting bad again; I almost have no room to tension, if I do the bolt might just come off, its that close.
I usually have the a/c on all the time, when I switch off the a/c the sound goes off........but sometimes the sound comes on even with the a/c off, so the sound comes on even with the a/c clutch not engaged.
I will try to record the noise and post a clip.
Last edited by mtom01; 10-08-10 at 05:46 AM. Reason: spelling
#6
#7
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There is something wrong in the setup. The tensioner should not be at the end. Have some one adjust tension with a gauge.
Salim
Salim
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#8
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Both bearings were replaced; any tension gauge that anyone had success with?
Its either the a/c clutch or the belt tension. I tried auto zone to see if they have tension gauge in there rental program.....they don't.
I have tried a tension gauge, got it from amazon, it was junk and returned it.
Its either the a/c clutch or the belt tension. I tried auto zone to see if they have tension gauge in there rental program.....they don't.
I have tried a tension gauge, got it from amazon, it was junk and returned it.
#9
Lexus Champion
Both bearings were replaced; any tension gauge that anyone had success with?
Its either the a/c clutch or the belt tension. I tried auto zone to see if they have tension gauge in there rental program.....they don't.
I have tried a tension gauge, got it from amazon, it was junk and returned it.
Its either the a/c clutch or the belt tension. I tried auto zone to see if they have tension gauge in there rental program.....they don't.
I have tried a tension gauge, got it from amazon, it was junk and returned it.
Last edited by code58; 10-09-10 at 01:19 AM.
#10
Lexus Champion
I have had the alternator checked in a shop, they said it was fine, but I asked them to replace both the bearings.
After this I put the OEM belt for both the alternator & power steering.
The noise was gone except once in a while there were some screeching noise for a few secs or so, after some hundreds of miles the noise lasted a bit more; I re-tensioned the belt; became better; now its getting bad again; I almost have no room to tension, if I do the bolt might just come off, its that close.
I usually have the a/c on all the time, when I switch off the a/c the sound goes off........but sometimes the sound comes on even with the a/c off, so the sound comes on even with the a/c clutch not engaged.
I will try to record the noise and post a clip.
After this I put the OEM belt for both the alternator & power steering.
The noise was gone except once in a while there were some screeching noise for a few secs or so, after some hundreds of miles the noise lasted a bit more; I re-tensioned the belt; became better; now its getting bad again; I almost have no room to tension, if I do the bolt might just come off, its that close.
I usually have the a/c on all the time, when I switch off the a/c the sound goes off........but sometimes the sound comes on even with the a/c off, so the sound comes on even with the a/c clutch not engaged.
I will try to record the noise and post a clip.
By the way, Salim is right, you DEFINITELY should not be at the outer end of the adjustment on the alt. if they gave you the right belt!!!
#12
Lexus Champion
There are those that would disagree with that method, but I think it's a perfectly good way to determine correct tension. I never found it necessary, was always able to get tension correct by feel, but would be better to do the "twist" method if you're not experienced at it.
#13
Have you tried a little belt dressing? There is a possibility the driven pulley is polished to the point it will not run the belt without a little slippage.
You could use any belt dressing you like but I have found the old style white toothpaste works great and is reasonably priced. A small travel size tube in your toolbox and your set.
You could use any belt dressing you like but I have found the old style white toothpaste works great and is reasonably priced. A small travel size tube in your toolbox and your set.
#14
Moderator
Things have evolved and for the longest time, mechanics would check deflection in the middle of the longest side. The twist was another way for "v" section belts. So a mechanics expertise was good enough and still is.
The new flat belts add another dimension to this "right" tension. I have always felt uneasy in guessing it. More so after reading the specs on the RX300 acc belt. For a brand new belt the spec is much higher and after 10mins of use there is another spec. So for me the choice is to take the RX to some one with a gauge, go the dealer and pay them 1/2 hr labor or buy a used one. I opted for the last one and rigged up a system to check its calibration. Luckily for me, the gauge is accurate within the spread of the specified tension.
I did check the flip test and I could flip the belt for large range of tension. Maybe I was flipping it with too much force.
Salim
Calibration test: Take an old belt and cut it open. Clamp weight on one end and clamp the other end to the edge of the table. The tension should be the the weight you attached. I used around 100 lbs and that overwhelmed the weight of the belt.
The new flat belts add another dimension to this "right" tension. I have always felt uneasy in guessing it. More so after reading the specs on the RX300 acc belt. For a brand new belt the spec is much higher and after 10mins of use there is another spec. So for me the choice is to take the RX to some one with a gauge, go the dealer and pay them 1/2 hr labor or buy a used one. I opted for the last one and rigged up a system to check its calibration. Luckily for me, the gauge is accurate within the spread of the specified tension.
I did check the flip test and I could flip the belt for large range of tension. Maybe I was flipping it with too much force.
Salim
Calibration test: Take an old belt and cut it open. Clamp weight on one end and clamp the other end to the edge of the table. The tension should be the the weight you attached. I used around 100 lbs and that overwhelmed the weight of the belt.
Last edited by salimshah; 10-11-10 at 07:58 AM.
#15
Things have evolved and for the longest time, mechanics would check deflection in the middle of the longest side. The twist was another way for "v" section belts. So a mechanics expertise was good enough and still is.
The new flat belts add another dimension to this "right" tension. I have always felt uneasy in guessing it. More so after reading the specs on the RX300 acc belt. For a brand new belt the spec is much higher and after 10mins of use there is another spec. So for me the choice is to take the RX to some one with a gauge, go the dealer and pay them 1/2 hr labor or buy a used one. I opted for the last one and rigged up a system to check its calibration. Luckily for me, the gauge is accurate within the spread of the specified tension.
I did check the flip test and I could flip the belt for large range of tension. Maybe I was flipping it with too much force.
Salim
Calibration test: Take an old belt and cut it open. Clamp weight on one end and clamp the other end to the edge of the table. The tension should be the the weight you attached. I used around 100 lbs and that overwhelmed the weight of the belt.
The new flat belts add another dimension to this "right" tension. I have always felt uneasy in guessing it. More so after reading the specs on the RX300 acc belt. For a brand new belt the spec is much higher and after 10mins of use there is another spec. So for me the choice is to take the RX to some one with a gauge, go the dealer and pay them 1/2 hr labor or buy a used one. I opted for the last one and rigged up a system to check its calibration. Luckily for me, the gauge is accurate within the spread of the specified tension.
I did check the flip test and I could flip the belt for large range of tension. Maybe I was flipping it with too much force.
Salim
Calibration test: Take an old belt and cut it open. Clamp weight on one end and clamp the other end to the edge of the table. The tension should be the the weight you attached. I used around 100 lbs and that overwhelmed the weight of the belt.
Pretty slick!! I did something very similar to calibrate my torque wrench. Used a nominal 75lb wheel weight from my tractor. Used a beam scale to determine its exact weight. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my 20+/- year old Craftsman Digitork was dead on.