Buying a Griots 3rd Gen-Looking to get into Detailing-Advice needed-Thank you
#1
Buying a Griots 3rd Gen-Looking to get into Detailing-Advice needed-Thank you
Hey guys ,
im planning on buying this Griots 3rd Gen 6 inch polisher, im hoping you guys can help me get started with the proper pads and polishes I will need for my purpose.
1. I want to polish and buff out all the fine, hairline scratches that my cars factory finish has , and I want to give the car a SHOWROOM quality finish.
2. I would also like to be able to do complete paint correction and CUT and POLISH. For example I would like to be able to sand with 1500-2000 grit and then buff the car back up to a high quality shine.
I know I will need to get multiple pads, some foam , some wool , some micro fibre, but im hoping you guys can simplify it for me and tell me exactly what I will need, and what products are the best for these procedures.
We have a lot of various polishes in the auto stores but im sure you guys know of better products then what I can find in the local walmart and auto shops.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot guys ,
William
im planning on buying this Griots 3rd Gen 6 inch polisher, im hoping you guys can help me get started with the proper pads and polishes I will need for my purpose.
1. I want to polish and buff out all the fine, hairline scratches that my cars factory finish has , and I want to give the car a SHOWROOM quality finish.
2. I would also like to be able to do complete paint correction and CUT and POLISH. For example I would like to be able to sand with 1500-2000 grit and then buff the car back up to a high quality shine.
I know I will need to get multiple pads, some foam , some wool , some micro fibre, but im hoping you guys can simplify it for me and tell me exactly what I will need, and what products are the best for these procedures.
We have a lot of various polishes in the auto stores but im sure you guys know of better products then what I can find in the local walmart and auto shops.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot guys ,
William
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (12)
It's been a very long night for me, so i'm just going to try and cut to the chase for you before I go to bed, LOL!!
Pads - You will want a nice combination of microfiber pads and foam pads. I would suggest getting Meguiars MF pads as they are known to have extreme cutting ability. Foam pads i'd get white for polishing and yellow/black for jeweling the paint. I like Lake Country, but everyone has their own preference.
Products - Don't be over getting some OTC stuff. Megs M105 and 205 can both be bought over the counter at your local auto store and they are an amazing combination. Although I use 3D/HD products I still have these (As most detailers do) in their arsenal to pull out. The best way to figure out what will work best is to do test spots if you have multiple pads/products. To be honest I always use a MF pad for my cutting stage and even sometimes polishing when I only want to do a 1 step correction and not deal with the cutting stage, but anyways you can do a test spot with your MF pad and then also an Orange Cutting foam pad if you choose to get some of those also and try all and any products you may have. What I usually do is I do a test section for Megs/ HD Cut/ Blackfire Compound and see which has the best results on the paint I am working with, then I move from there. Also remember you are going to want to clay or decontaminate your paint. I personally use the Speedy Prep Towel. It's the new way to clay and you achieve the same results in less time and have way more uses in this towel than you do in clay. This can be bought from towelpros.com which I list again below for my go to towel ordering.
Where to buy products?
There are many places to purchase products. Autogeek is a great place to start. Personally I buy from Autoality.com as I am a member there and they carry 3D/HD products along with many other lines of products that I choose to use. DetailersDomain is also a good place to buy products.
As far as towels go I use towelpros.com for my drying/polishing/QD/ All Purpose Towels and I order MF towels from Costco for interior cleaning/exhaust cleaning.
Hope this helps you a bit. If I can think of anything else I will add. Been a long day over here brother, take it easy!
Pads - You will want a nice combination of microfiber pads and foam pads. I would suggest getting Meguiars MF pads as they are known to have extreme cutting ability. Foam pads i'd get white for polishing and yellow/black for jeweling the paint. I like Lake Country, but everyone has their own preference.
Products - Don't be over getting some OTC stuff. Megs M105 and 205 can both be bought over the counter at your local auto store and they are an amazing combination. Although I use 3D/HD products I still have these (As most detailers do) in their arsenal to pull out. The best way to figure out what will work best is to do test spots if you have multiple pads/products. To be honest I always use a MF pad for my cutting stage and even sometimes polishing when I only want to do a 1 step correction and not deal with the cutting stage, but anyways you can do a test spot with your MF pad and then also an Orange Cutting foam pad if you choose to get some of those also and try all and any products you may have. What I usually do is I do a test section for Megs/ HD Cut/ Blackfire Compound and see which has the best results on the paint I am working with, then I move from there. Also remember you are going to want to clay or decontaminate your paint. I personally use the Speedy Prep Towel. It's the new way to clay and you achieve the same results in less time and have way more uses in this towel than you do in clay. This can be bought from towelpros.com which I list again below for my go to towel ordering.
Where to buy products?
There are many places to purchase products. Autogeek is a great place to start. Personally I buy from Autoality.com as I am a member there and they carry 3D/HD products along with many other lines of products that I choose to use. DetailersDomain is also a good place to buy products.
As far as towels go I use towelpros.com for my drying/polishing/QD/ All Purpose Towels and I order MF towels from Costco for interior cleaning/exhaust cleaning.
Hope this helps you a bit. If I can think of anything else I will add. Been a long day over here brother, take it easy!
#3
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
These are some of my recommendations for basic detailing products and tools. It is important to remember that proper technique is key... even with something as "simple" as washing. If proper techniques are not followed, permanent damage can occur.
First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal! I would recommend asking for 2 Orange Light Cutting Pads, 2 White Polishing Pads, 2 Black Finishing Pads, and 2 Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
- You may also consider Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads if you have harder paint or more severe defects that need to be removed.
- Menzerna Fast Gloss 400 Cutting Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- If you have softer paint, or black paint, you may find it beneficial to follow up with an even finer polish like Menzerna Micro Polish SF4500
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Misc. Other Tasks
- Glass Cleaner: Stoner Invisible Glass
- Metal Polish/Protection: Chemical Guys Metal Wax (Metal Polish + Metal Sealant in one step!)
- Engine Bay Cleaning: Optimum Power Clean
- Engine Bay Dressing: 303 Aerospace Protectant for engine covers/plastic panels and Chemical Guys Black on Black spray for hoses, harnesses, and hard to reach areas.
- Exterior Trim Protectant/Coating: 22ple VR1 Plastic and Trim Restorer (up to 1 year of durable, fantastic looking trim protection.
- Light Interior Cleaning/UV Protection: 303 Aerospace Protectant for a slightly glossy appearance or Einszett Cockpit Premium for a 'like new' matte finish
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through basics of the full detailing process.
Please let me know if you've got any other specific questions regarding processes, products, technique, etc.
-Zach
First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal! I would recommend asking for 2 Orange Light Cutting Pads, 2 White Polishing Pads, 2 Black Finishing Pads, and 2 Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
- You may also consider Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads if you have harder paint or more severe defects that need to be removed.
- Menzerna Fast Gloss 400 Cutting Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- If you have softer paint, or black paint, you may find it beneficial to follow up with an even finer polish like Menzerna Micro Polish SF4500
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Misc. Other Tasks
- Glass Cleaner: Stoner Invisible Glass
- Metal Polish/Protection: Chemical Guys Metal Wax (Metal Polish + Metal Sealant in one step!)
- Engine Bay Cleaning: Optimum Power Clean
- Engine Bay Dressing: 303 Aerospace Protectant for engine covers/plastic panels and Chemical Guys Black on Black spray for hoses, harnesses, and hard to reach areas.
- Exterior Trim Protectant/Coating: 22ple VR1 Plastic and Trim Restorer (up to 1 year of durable, fantastic looking trim protection.
- Light Interior Cleaning/UV Protection: 303 Aerospace Protectant for a slightly glossy appearance or Einszett Cockpit Premium for a 'like new' matte finish
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through basics of the full detailing process.
Please let me know if you've got any other specific questions regarding processes, products, technique, etc.
-Zach
#4
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William,
Here is a kit we have that is proven, no issues should do the job.
Griot's 6 inch random orbital swirl remover kit.
Phil
Here is a kit we have that is proven, no issues should do the job.
Griot's 6 inch random orbital swirl remover kit.
Phil
#5
It's been a very long night for me, so i'm just going to try and cut to the chase for you before I go to bed, LOL!!
Pads - You will want a nice combination of microfiber pads and foam pads. I would suggest getting Meguiars MF pads as they are known to have extreme cutting ability. Foam pads i'd get white for polishing and yellow/black for jeweling the paint. I like Lake Country, but everyone has their own preference.
Products - Don't be over getting some OTC stuff. Megs M105 and 205 can both be bought over the counter at your local auto store and they are an amazing combination. Although I use 3D/HD products I still have these (As most detailers do) in their arsenal to pull out. The best way to figure out what will work best is to do test spots if you have multiple pads/products. To be honest I always use a MF pad for my cutting stage and even sometimes polishing when I only want to do a 1 step correction and not deal with the cutting stage, but anyways you can do a test spot with your MF pad and then also an Orange Cutting foam pad if you choose to get some of those also and try all and any products you may have. What I usually do is I do a test section for Megs/ HD Cut/ Blackfire Compound and see which has the best results on the paint I am working with, then I move from there. Also remember you are going to want to clay or decontaminate your paint. I personally use the Speedy Prep Towel. It's the new way to clay and you achieve the same results in less time and have way more uses in this towel than you do in clay. This can be bought from towelpros.com which I list again below for my go to towel ordering.
Where to buy products?
There are many places to purchase products. Autogeek is a great place to start. Personally I buy from Autoality.com as I am a member there and they carry 3D/HD products along with many other lines of products that I choose to use. DetailersDomain is also a good place to buy products.
As far as towels go I use towelpros.com for my drying/polishing/QD/ All Purpose Towels and I order MF towels from Costco for interior cleaning/exhaust cleaning.
Hope this helps you a bit. If I can think of anything else I will add. Been a long day over here brother, take it easy!
Pads - You will want a nice combination of microfiber pads and foam pads. I would suggest getting Meguiars MF pads as they are known to have extreme cutting ability. Foam pads i'd get white for polishing and yellow/black for jeweling the paint. I like Lake Country, but everyone has their own preference.
Products - Don't be over getting some OTC stuff. Megs M105 and 205 can both be bought over the counter at your local auto store and they are an amazing combination. Although I use 3D/HD products I still have these (As most detailers do) in their arsenal to pull out. The best way to figure out what will work best is to do test spots if you have multiple pads/products. To be honest I always use a MF pad for my cutting stage and even sometimes polishing when I only want to do a 1 step correction and not deal with the cutting stage, but anyways you can do a test spot with your MF pad and then also an Orange Cutting foam pad if you choose to get some of those also and try all and any products you may have. What I usually do is I do a test section for Megs/ HD Cut/ Blackfire Compound and see which has the best results on the paint I am working with, then I move from there. Also remember you are going to want to clay or decontaminate your paint. I personally use the Speedy Prep Towel. It's the new way to clay and you achieve the same results in less time and have way more uses in this towel than you do in clay. This can be bought from towelpros.com which I list again below for my go to towel ordering.
Where to buy products?
There are many places to purchase products. Autogeek is a great place to start. Personally I buy from Autoality.com as I am a member there and they carry 3D/HD products along with many other lines of products that I choose to use. DetailersDomain is also a good place to buy products.
As far as towels go I use towelpros.com for my drying/polishing/QD/ All Purpose Towels and I order MF towels from Costco for interior cleaning/exhaust cleaning.
Hope this helps you a bit. If I can think of anything else I will add. Been a long day over here brother, take it easy!
These are some of my recommendations for basic detailing products and tools. It is important to remember that proper technique is key... even with something as "simple" as washing. If proper techniques are not followed, permanent damage can occur.
First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal! I would recommend asking for 2 Orange Light Cutting Pads, 2 White Polishing Pads, 2 Black Finishing Pads, and 2 Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
- You may also consider Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads if you have harder paint or more severe defects that need to be removed.
- Menzerna Fast Gloss 400 Cutting Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- If you have softer paint, or black paint, you may find it beneficial to follow up with an even finer polish like Menzerna Micro Polish SF4500
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Misc. Other Tasks
- Glass Cleaner: Stoner Invisible Glass
- Metal Polish/Protection: Chemical Guys Metal Wax (Metal Polish + Metal Sealant in one step!)
- Engine Bay Cleaning: Optimum Power Clean
- Engine Bay Dressing: 303 Aerospace Protectant for engine covers/plastic panels and Chemical Guys Black on Black spray for hoses, harnesses, and hard to reach areas.
- Exterior Trim Protectant/Coating: 22ple VR1 Plastic and Trim Restorer (up to 1 year of durable, fantastic looking trim protection.
- Light Interior Cleaning/UV Protection: 303 Aerospace Protectant for a slightly glossy appearance or Einszett Cockpit Premium for a 'like new' matte finish
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through basics of the full detailing process.
Please let me know if you've got any other specific questions regarding processes, products, technique, etc.
-Zach
First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal! I would recommend asking for 2 Orange Light Cutting Pads, 2 White Polishing Pads, 2 Black Finishing Pads, and 2 Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
- You may also consider Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads if you have harder paint or more severe defects that need to be removed.
- Menzerna Fast Gloss 400 Cutting Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- If you have softer paint, or black paint, you may find it beneficial to follow up with an even finer polish like Menzerna Micro Polish SF4500
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Misc. Other Tasks
- Glass Cleaner: Stoner Invisible Glass
- Metal Polish/Protection: Chemical Guys Metal Wax (Metal Polish + Metal Sealant in one step!)
- Engine Bay Cleaning: Optimum Power Clean
- Engine Bay Dressing: 303 Aerospace Protectant for engine covers/plastic panels and Chemical Guys Black on Black spray for hoses, harnesses, and hard to reach areas.
- Exterior Trim Protectant/Coating: 22ple VR1 Plastic and Trim Restorer (up to 1 year of durable, fantastic looking trim protection.
- Light Interior Cleaning/UV Protection: 303 Aerospace Protectant for a slightly glossy appearance or Einszett Cockpit Premium for a 'like new' matte finish
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through basics of the full detailing process.
Please let me know if you've got any other specific questions regarding processes, products, technique, etc.
-Zach
William,
Here is a kit we have that is proven, no issues should do the job.
Griot's 6 inch random orbital swirl remover kit.
Phil
Here is a kit we have that is proven, no issues should do the job.
Griot's 6 inch random orbital swirl remover kit.
Phil
#7
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
D300 on a MF cutting pad is a nice pair, but it lacks in cut compared to other compounds. the D301 was never at the top of my list... Other polishes like M205 are superior in terms of cutting ability with great finishing ability.
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#8
Definitely a great set of products, but to be honest, the 105/205 or FG400/SF4000 combos are more universal IMO.
D300 on a MF cutting pad is a nice pair, but it lacks in cut compared to other compounds. the D301 was never at the top of my list... Other polishes like M205 are superior in terms of cutting ability with great finishing ability.
D300 on a MF cutting pad is a nice pair, but it lacks in cut compared to other compounds. the D301 was never at the top of my list... Other polishes like M205 are superior in terms of cutting ability with great finishing ability.
I had one more concern , I am learning about the differenced between orbital polishers and rotary ones , im wondering if I would be better off getting a Porter polisher as opposed to this griots.
I am new to detailing but im confident in my ability to learn quick, so I don't want to get a beginners tool and then end up having to buy a better one later on.
Any insight?
Porter vs Griot?
Thanks
#9
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Thanks guys , appreciate all the info
I had one more concern , I am learning about the differenced between orbital polishers and rotary ones , im wondering if I would be better off getting a Porter polisher as opposed to this griots.
I am new to detailing but im confident in my ability to learn quick, so I don't want to get a beginners tool and then end up having to buy a better one later on.
Any insight?
Porter vs Griot?
Thanks
I had one more concern , I am learning about the differenced between orbital polishers and rotary ones , im wondering if I would be better off getting a Porter polisher as opposed to this griots.
I am new to detailing but im confident in my ability to learn quick, so I don't want to get a beginners tool and then end up having to buy a better one later on.
Any insight?
Porter vs Griot?
Thanks
Both are random orbital, aka dual action, polishers... NOT rotary.
Both are considered more 'beginner' based machines due to their lower price and smaller size.
The Griot's machine is slightly more powerful and features a lifetime warranty which is why it warrants a slightly higher price tag. You cannot go wrong with either machine.
The Rupes Bigfoot machines and the Flex 3401 VRG are professional level Dual Action polishers. They are more powerful, capable of much faster correction, and larger in size... you'll also notice they are MUCH more expensive which is why most amateurs and DIYers end up going with the Griot's or Porter Cable.
One thing to consider is that with the smaller machines (ie GG and PC), you have the ability to use various backing plates ranging from 6.5" to 3". With the Rupes, you would need to purchase 2 machines (the LHR21 and the LHR75e as well as the LHR15 backing plate) to use 6.5", 5.5" and 3" pads.
I have both a Porter Cable as well as a Rupes LHR21ES w/ 6" and 5" backing plates and a Rupes LHR75e... I rarely use my Porter Cable anymore except for spreading wax or sanding.
If you have no budget, might as well go all out... but if you're just looking for something to maintain your vehicles, the Griot's Garage machine will suit you perfectly.
**Rotary polishers like the Flex PE 14 are NOT intended for amateur use. These machines can and will cause damage very quickly if used incorrectly. They are becoming more and more obsolete in the detailing world as DA technology continues to advance.
Last edited by zmcgovern4; 03-24-14 at 12:19 PM.
#10
The Griot's Garage DA Polisher and the Porter Cable 7424XP are very, very similar.
Both are random orbital, aka dual action, polishers... NOT rotary.
Both are considered more 'beginner' based machines due to their lower price and smaller size.
The Griot's machine is slightly more powerful and features a lifetime warranty which is why it warrants a slightly higher price tag. You cannot go wrong with either machine.
The Rupes Bigfoot machines and the Flex 3401 VRG are professional level Dual Action polishers. They are more powerful, capable of much faster correction, and larger in size... you'll also notice they are MUCH more expensive which is why most amateurs and DIYers end up going with the Griot's or Porter Cable.
One thing to consider is that with the smaller machines (ie GG and PC), you have the ability to use various backing plates ranging from 6.5" to 3". With the Rupes, you would need to purchase 2 machines (the LHR21 and the LHR75e as well as the LHR15 backing plate) to use 6.5", 5.5" and 3" pads.
I have both a Porter Cable as well as a Rupes LHR21ES w/ 6" and 5" backing plates and a Rupes LHR75e... I rarely use my Porter Cable anymore except for spreading wax or sanding.
If you have no budget, might as well go all out... but if you're just looking for something to maintain your vehicles, the Griot's Garage machine will suit you perfectly.
**Rotary polishers like the Flex PE 14 are NOT intended for amateur use. These machines can and will cause damage very quickly if used incorrectly. They are becoming more and more obsolete in the detailing world as DA technology continues to advance.
Both are random orbital, aka dual action, polishers... NOT rotary.
Both are considered more 'beginner' based machines due to their lower price and smaller size.
The Griot's machine is slightly more powerful and features a lifetime warranty which is why it warrants a slightly higher price tag. You cannot go wrong with either machine.
The Rupes Bigfoot machines and the Flex 3401 VRG are professional level Dual Action polishers. They are more powerful, capable of much faster correction, and larger in size... you'll also notice they are MUCH more expensive which is why most amateurs and DIYers end up going with the Griot's or Porter Cable.
One thing to consider is that with the smaller machines (ie GG and PC), you have the ability to use various backing plates ranging from 6.5" to 3". With the Rupes, you would need to purchase 2 machines (the LHR21 and the LHR75e as well as the LHR15 backing plate) to use 6.5", 5.5" and 3" pads.
I have both a Porter Cable as well as a Rupes LHR21ES w/ 6" and 5" backing plates and a Rupes LHR75e... I rarely use my Porter Cable anymore except for spreading wax or sanding.
If you have no budget, might as well go all out... but if you're just looking for something to maintain your vehicles, the Griot's Garage machine will suit you perfectly.
**Rotary polishers like the Flex PE 14 are NOT intended for amateur use. These machines can and will cause damage very quickly if used incorrectly. They are becoming more and more obsolete in the detailing world as DA technology continues to advance.
sounds like the griots is capable of doing any job it just might take longer ?
The tough part with this detailing is all the many different options there are.
I need to make a choice soon as spring is around the corner.
As long as the griots is powerful enough to remove sanding marks im sure it will be fine for me .
Thanks buddy
#11
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Here are a few older pictures when I only used my porter cable machine...
^e46 M3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^bmw z3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^Sanding marks on 335i left by dealership
^easily removed with compounding via the PC7424XP
^another angle
-Zach
#12
^Essentially, yes, these smaller machines are capable of achieving great cut and great finishing, but the cutting might take a little longer (and require more effort/pressure) if you are doing some pretty severe defect removal.
Here are a few older pictures when I only used my porter cable machine...
^e46 M3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^bmw z3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^Sanding marks on 335i left by dealership
^easily removed with compounding via the PC7424XP
^another angle
^It's just like purchasing any other tool... you can purchase the less expensive one that is targeted at the consumer, or you can purchase the much more expensive one that is targeted at the professional who will be using it very regularly and can therefore justify the added cost for the increase in efficiency.
^As shown in the photo above... it can surely remove sanding marks when paired with the right products and technique.
-Zach
Here are a few older pictures when I only used my porter cable machine...
^e46 M3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^bmw z3 after compounding with PC7424XP
^Sanding marks on 335i left by dealership
^easily removed with compounding via the PC7424XP
^another angle
^It's just like purchasing any other tool... you can purchase the less expensive one that is targeted at the consumer, or you can purchase the much more expensive one that is targeted at the professional who will be using it very regularly and can therefore justify the added cost for the increase in efficiency.
^As shown in the photo above... it can surely remove sanding marks when paired with the right products and technique.
-Zach
#13
Lexus Fanatic
Interesting, thank you
sounds like the griots is capable of doing any job it just might take longer ?
The tough part with this detailing is all the many different options there are.
I need to make a choice soon as spring is around the corner.
As long as the griots is powerful enough to remove sanding marks im sure it will be fine for me .
Thanks buddy
sounds like the griots is capable of doing any job it just might take longer ?
The tough part with this detailing is all the many different options there are.
I need to make a choice soon as spring is around the corner.
As long as the griots is powerful enough to remove sanding marks im sure it will be fine for me .
Thanks buddy
There are new microfiber pads and special polishes that are supposed to make the work quicker and more efficient for the PC and Griots.
#14
Both machines are capable of removing fine sanding marks with the right pads/compound. Do you plan on wet sanding your entire car? That is a heck of a project, I hope you have experience wet sanding a painted finish because it does not take much to remove or heavily compromise your clear coat. I would try the least aggressive method if you are planning on sanding your cars finish first. Try claying it, using a compound(if your finish is clearly that bad to need a compound) with a yellow, wool or orange pad, use a regular polish with a orange pad, then finish down with a finer polish and a white pad see how your finish looks, it may look good enough that you don't feel you have to sand it.
There are new microfiber pads and special polishes that are supposed to make the work quicker and more efficient for the PC and Griots.
There are new microfiber pads and special polishes that are supposed to make the work quicker and more efficient for the PC and Griots.
as of right now no I am absolutely not going to sand my entire car down. In terms of the actual sanding I have plenty of experience with it so im not worried about going right through the clear.
For right now I only want to get rid of all the fine scratches in my clear coat on my ls430, but I do have an older sc400 that I want to paint and I am sure I will need to do sanding on at least a few spots when im done.
Yes ive heard of the micro fibre pads, im still trying to learn what I can there is so much different products and options out there , thanks
#15
Ok guys I ordered the griots 6 inch, and I started some fender work on my car and I have some serious paint work to do now.
im just looking for a tried and true method to bring back a full sheen after a thorough wetsand ending with 2000 grit.
at this point I would prefer over the counter as I don't want to wait for shipping.
How many steps are involved? is it just polish and then seal with wax?
Thanks!!!!
im just looking for a tried and true method to bring back a full sheen after a thorough wetsand ending with 2000 grit.
at this point I would prefer over the counter as I don't want to wait for shipping.
How many steps are involved? is it just polish and then seal with wax?
Thanks!!!!