jacksonian

I just bought a new '04 GX470, Black Onyx exterior/Dark Gray interior. I have very little time for car detailing, but I'd like to do what I can. Can anyone give me some suggestions for someone like me? Like maybe a basic survival strategy and tools? I'm not going to have time for extensive hours on hours waxing and such. I need a good plan I can do in about 1-2 hours each week total (in and out). I'm trying to avoid any colossal mistakes like the commercial car wash. I've never had a black car. My sales guy gave me a microfiber cloth and preached to me about the black paint and that I needed to protect it. He scared me pretty good. So I need some advice please.

Thanks, Brent

jacksonian

Anyone? I was thinking that maybe there was something I needed to do now while new and maybe once a year to protect it and then in between just 2 bucket wash and dry each week or two? Does that sound reasonable?

I don't have any idea what I'm doing when it comes to car detailing. If there's anything I should do to try to protect it from the start I'd be willing to put in the effort.

Guitarman

jacksonian , I usually wait to see if others chime in before I give some answers, but since you're not getting much advice...

I too own a black car (not my GS), and have for 13 years, so I can hopefully help you with some do's and don'ts, take what you like , throw out what you don't think feasible;

Some items for "overkill", which is arguably necessary to keep black paint pristine. You really can't get away with "average" paint care on black, if you expect it to keep looking good, but you seem to already know this.

*2 wash pails/buckets ( yep- you were ready for this)- This 2 bucket method with 2 wash mitts/bonnets will really help you keep swirls at bay. You'd want to fill one with shampoo & water, and the other with just clear water.You then rinse your mitt in the clean water to trap the dirt before dunking in the shampoo.This keeps most of the grit out of your wash bucket. The 2nd wash mitt should ONLY be used on the lower parts of the car, which is where all the sand and heavy road grit gets kicked up. You always want to use this mitt LAST, and wash the lower parts last, before rinsing. Oh, and of course always rinse the car THOROUGHLY before you even start with the wash mitt. Should be a given, but I've actually seen people skip this step. Dry the car with either an electric blower (gas won't work-it leaves a petroleum film in the blown air, which gets on your paint) or pat ( don't rub) it dry with microfiber towels, or use both in conjunction. Another tip; if you must wipe the car dry, spray some quick detailer over the wet car after the final rinse. This will add lubricity as well as shine, and help you avoid streaks too.

*Use LIGHT pressure no matter what you're doing, it can mean the difference between a scratch and success.

*Whenever you have to wipe the paint, be it wax residue, quick detailer or even polish, wipe in back & forth directions, as air flows over the car. If you can avoid circles, you can avoid scratches and swirls that are visible from EVERY direction, rather than a stray fine scratch that is only visible from 1 angle. Make sense?

*Keep the vehicle from getting TOO dirty. I know that's sometimes impossible, but if you can wash it before it gets a large buildup of dirt, you'll have a better chance of avoiding swirls and scratches when washing.

*Arm yourself with quality microfiber towels, or PROVEN 100% cotton towels (some 100% cotton towels DO scratch) FieldCrest and Canon are good names to look into if you go the terry towel route.

*Plan on useing a swirl remover quarterly, or 2x a year at least, before you wax. It will likely be necessary no matter how careful you are.

* Never put your car away wet. Be it rain or rinse from a car washing. Trace minerals in the water can leave hard water spots that may etch into the clear. If I happen to get home after a light rain, I either rinse it down with the hose and dry it, or spray the heck out of it with quick detailer and then dry it. It only takes overnight for water spots to have their way.


I can't really comment on which wax or sealant you should use, because that's subjective, and dependent on your time and $$$ available. The important thing is to keep protection on it, because water spots, bird droppings etc. will all be much more evident on black paint.

But DO remove bird droppings ASAP. Draw the acids out with rubbing alcohol ( acts as a drying agent) or use a baking soda and water mix to neutralize the acids. If you only use a quick detailer, it's possible the acids will remain and the paint will actually get etched from the remains, even after the main dropping is removed by quick detailer. (don't ask how I know this!)

Those are some basics.Do half of this and you'll be ok. Pretty complicated eh? Well, As I like to say to folks- BLACK PAINT IS A COMITTMENT! heheh, Cheers.

jacksonian

Guitarman,
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out. There should be a detailing for dummies website or something.

I can definitely do the 2 bucket/2 mitt wash thing, the tips on the process are very helpful. I just had a couple of questions.

So you just blow it dry with the electric leaf blower? So do I even need any microfiber towels if I do that?

What does a swirl remover do? Do you think I'd need it if I only washed in a back and forth manner and then blew it dry?

I don't know if I'll be able to do the rain thing, hosing it or quick detailing it every time it gets rained on, but I'll try.

Can you give me a general tip for waxing? Is there a special kind of protectant wax or are they all the same? I guess I was looking for something that would give it a good protective coating, more so than just the showroom shine. I don't have tons of time, but I could probably wax maybe 3 or 4 times a year.

So it's better to use rubbing alcohol or baking soda than any type of bug or tar remover?

Again, thanks a million!

__________________

Guitarman

So you just blow it dry with the electric leaf blower? So do I even need any microfiber towels if I do that?
Yes, You'll likely still have to "mop up" a bit of remaining water after using the blower, but you can get most of it off the vehicle and use a damp chamois or microfiber or terry towel to soak up the rest. You may want to check into the product in one of the lower threads titled ; "Mr Clean AutoDry", as it uses a deionizing / demineralizing filter and a polymeric soap to sheet off the water, then any remaining water evaporates and leaves no water spots due to the deionizing process. Then you don't have to touch it with a towel at all.


What does a swirl remover do? Do you think I'd need it if I only washed in a back and forth manner and then blew it dry?
Swirls removers are polishes, usually fine grit, that either fill and level or strictly level swirls by removing a tiny bit of paint, to the point the fine swirls are taken out. I guarantee no matter how careful you are, eventually you'll need to polish with one. But then, fine swirls may not bother you too much, so only use it if they do.

I don't know if I'll be able to do the rain thing, hosing it or quick detailing it every time it gets rained on, but I'll try. It's ok, we can never do it all, just remember- you own your car, it doesn't own you. (hopefully!) Just do the best that you can and you'll keep it looking good.

Can you give me a general tip for waxing? Is there a special kind of protectant wax or are they all the same? I guess I was looking for something that would give it a good protective coating, more so than just the showroom shine. I don't have tons of time, but I could probably wax maybe 3 or 4 times a year. I really try to avoid straight up recommendations, because there isn't one "best" product (IMO) for everyone, but considering your situation, go with a polymer sealant. You will get 4-6 months out of the good ones and no wax can really match that. Look into Blackfire, Zaino, Klasse All-In-One or Klasse Sealant glaze, or Meguiar's #20, among others. They're all very effective.

So it's better to use rubbing alcohol or baking soda than any type of bug or tar remover?
Yep, in regards to bird bombs it is...Bug & Tar remover will remove the dropping, but not the acid remains. It (bird doo-doo) can and does etch clearcoat, sometimes so deep only a repaint can remedy it. A wax or polymer sealant will only buy you some extra time, sometimes only hours if the bird in question has eaten the wrong stuff. Pack some isopropyl alcohol & water (50/50 mix) or some baking soda & water in a bottle , along with a couple microfiber towels or terry dishcloths. If you get a dropping, lay the towel over the dropping and pour some of the mixture on the rag to wet it, and let it soak a few minutes. That will soften the dropping to avoid scratching the paint when you wipe it away. Afterwards, wipe it with another clean towel and more of the solution to fully remove acidic remnants.

jacksonian

Wow! Thank you. That's great information. I really appreciate it. I guess I have some shopping to do, and then some work.

Thanks again,
Brent

jacksonian

I like the idea of a polymer protectant rather than a wax. My highest priorities are length of protection and ease of application (I hope that's not blasphemy, but I know if it's too hard to do or doesn't last very long, I just won't do anything). Which would be easier to apply and last longer, the Zaino or the Meguiar's 20, I just picked those based on name recognition. When I tried reading at the Zaino site, I couldn't figure out if I was supposed to use ZFX and Z2 or Z1 and Z2. Will that be more work than the Meg? The Zaino would probably last longer though, right?

Guitarman

The Meguiar's #20 will be just a single application on/off.

The Zaino requires either a 2 part first step - use Z1and then apply Z2 OR Z5 right over top of it ( wait a few hours-buff off) or the ZFX mixed with either Z2 OR Z5 will allow you to skip Z1 and you'll be able to apply 3 coats of the ZFX mixture within the day.

In my experience, and from what I've read, the Zaino will last slightly longer. Looks are subjective, so I can't tell you which you'll prefer visuallyt (you might not notice a difference between either).

It's true that Zaino requires more application time than the #20, so if that's a priority for you, a product that is quick on/off might be best. Another thing which is more of a FWIW; Zaino is a pure polymer, whereas Meg #20 has some cleaners and (supposedly) wax in it too. It's closer to Klasse All In One than it is Zaino.

Meguiar's has a new polymer coming out called NXT, so keep an eye on the store shelves for it. It might be a nice step up from #20. Cheers.

P.S. If you do however go Zaino, all you need IMO is Z1 and Z5. Z5 is the better polymer for dark colored vehicles, whereas light colors will do fine with Z2.

jacksonian

Thanks! I think I'll go with the Meg20 and keep my eyes open for the NXT. I'll be lucky to get one application in with my busy schedule. I was looking at these Cobra microfiber applicator pads and glass gleaner. So you recommend using microfiber for applications like the Meg? What about the microfiber wash mitt? Are there any differences in the quality of different brands of microfiber products (is there a brand NOT to buy)?

mooretorque

(Now reading with interest all threads on black vehicles since SHE decided SHE had to have a blac car this time around)

Guitarman, to clarify, are you saying that Z3, supposedly spec. formulated for non-clear coated cars (eg, Black Onyx) isn't necessary after Z5ing?? Or did that above quote more apply to darker but clear coated cars??

Guitarman

Yes, I do often forget that the Lexus black is non-clearcoated, so I was referring to other blacks( and any dark colors) in general when I said to use the Z5 Thanks for the heads up!
He would need the Z3. I use Z5 on my black T-Bird , but it's cleared. Sooner or later I will remember about the onyx.

tod071

I've tried both Meguiar's and Zaino. I found that Zaino was actually easier to apply than any other (IMO). You don't use circular motions, but back & forth. Something about the way the sunlight relfects on the car is the way you apply.
It took me 2 hrs to wash, apply Z-1, Z-2, wipe down interior while waiting for Z-2 to dry, then wipe down exterior.
Posting some pics on a new thread.

jacksonian

So any thoughts on the microfiber wash mits and applicators?

mooretorque

I hope Guitarman likes 'em, since I just ordered 8 big MicroPaks from Ranney at PakShak...................there is a CL deal on 'em (see Daddy-O's sticky in this forum).

I can't believe how much extra work SHE made for me when she decided on that Black Onyx; guess I came go home every day at lunch to wash it........................

Not to mention the fact that Sal Zaino says 4 times a year for Z3................. (I know bitkahuna is laughing if he's reading this thread.............aren't you, Paul??!! )

jacksonian

So the Black Onyx GX is NOT clear coat finished? I missed this piece of info somewhere. What does that mean as far as how I care for it? As for the Zaino, I'd need Z1 and Z3? What about the ZFX? I don't understand all this multiple layers of Zaino. Is there a guide somewhere? I didn't really understand what was on the ZainoBros. page.

Are the PakShak microfiber towels the best, or are they all about the same?

Mooretorque, I'm in the exact same boat as you. I had no idea what my wife was getting me into, but it sure is beautiful when it's clean.