unioncorps

Apologize for the long thread, but appreciate any input/advice from true detailers out there on this forum.

I have a black 2018 IS350, which as you all know, shows every little imperfection especially in the sunlight. I'm a stickler when it comes to detailing and making the car look good. The paint is smooth with the normal daily driver abuse - i.e., very thin hairline scratches here and there. When I wash my car, I use the 2 bucket method along with using a foam gun. When drying, I spritz some DS and use a leaf blower to blow out water from the crevices then use a very soft and large drying towel to dry out the residual water.

The advice I need is around MF towels. I've tried multiple brands of MF towels from chemical guys to Meguiars to The Rag Company. All of them I've noticed "shed" lint such that when I buff the car off after a wax, I notice a bunch of tiny hairs on the black paint when you look close. They look to be statically charged attached to the paint. I'm able to "move them around" with a MF towel, but there's still a bunch around wherever I buffed. With painters tape, I can get a lot of this lint but it's a pain and certainly hope that's not the way forward. So my question is - why is this happening and am I doing something wrong?

Before answering, I want to provide some context of what I have done with MF towels:

1. When I buy new towels, I always wash them as recommended, even with a extra rinse
2. I only use liquid detergent that is dye-free
3. I do not use the dryer and only air dry by hanging towels on a drying rack
4. I wash "like" towels together and by purpose to prevent contamination - like towels used for polishes/waxes are washed together, drying towels together, etc.
5. I've used a lint brush roller at times for towels
6. I do not mix regular laundry with MF towels
7. I only use the cold setting for the washing machine with an extra rinse setting
8. MF towels, when dry, are stored in the garage in clear bins with lids to prevent dust from getting in

I'd also add that I do not have a dedicated washer/dryer specific to the car. So even having maintained MF towels following what I wrote above, I still get this lint or tiny fibers regardless of the towel brand. On any other lighter color car, I'd imagine that this wouldn't be noticeable but on a black car, it looks like the car is shedding at various places.

Especially for folks with black cars that detail their own, have you encountered this? If so, what can you suggest that I am doing wrong or not doing to prevent this linting (even from new/newer towels)? It's disappointing when you wax your car and the deep dark shine comes through and then once the sun hits it, you see all these tiny fibers all over .

Appreciate any input you may have. Thanks!

Freds430

Wow you are doing everything correctly. I use this for wiping after I blow off with Ego electric blower. Super strong. This towel incredibly soft and absorbent.

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Mostly the same regimen for mine. Couple of differences, I also use microfiber-specific detergent to wash mine with extra rinse cycle

https://a.co/d/4VQfX4j

https://www.autogeek.net/dp-microfiber-cleaner.html

Are the two I've used, but there are a bunch on Amazon and elsewhere.(Chemical Guys seems to have the best reviews).

I do use the dryer on low / delicate to dry mine which does get some of the loose fibers off. I do not use any Bounce sheets / etc. in the cycle

Also agree with Fred on leaf blower first, use MF only for spot drying after.

unioncorps

Thanks for the inputs!

To add some more context, I have an older-ish (circa 2012) washer and dryer. When I wash I normally use the "normal" wash setting with an extra rinse cycle, colors/cold temperature, and standard spin but medium load setting. I wonder if I change the load setting to large (or super) if that would change anything to ensure there's more water in there when things are being agitated and more contaminants get released.

As far as drying, I've always been hesitant to use the dyer as I've heard heat destroys MFs so I've always air dried after the wash. I wonder if it makes a difference with removing more of the lint, as mentioned above, if I run it under a delicate cycle without dryer sheets which defaults to an extra low heat setting for a short time and then air dry on a clothes rack. There is also a "Quick Fluff" setting that has no heat but not sure if that will help also pull in some loose fibers into the lint trap. When you use the dryer, do you use the entire dry cycle or do you only dry for say 3-5 minutes?

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

I use the full cycle on the extra low heat setting, but the dryer has a moisture sensing system so it doesn’t run for a longer period than needed

unioncorps

Thanks Dave! Mine also has a moisture sensor as well - let me see if that helps with the lint or shedding of these "premium" MFs using the dyer on extra low heat setting.

Anything else you'd suggest? I get that there may be some bad batches when MFs are manufactured, but I've had this lint/shedding issue across multiple different brands.

RX10

Have your car ceramic coated professionally. Having a few black cars during my life, I’m very familiar with the difficulty to keep them clean and how every spot, smudge and linty towel will show on the surface. Having my current black SUV ceramic coated three years ago solved the problem(s). I went with the IGL Kenzo product. Couldn’t be happier with the results.

After getting the car coated, the vehicle stays cleaner for so much longer, easier to hand wash, the surface isn’t as finicky with lint clings and scratches are nonexistent. Two bucket method, MF towels from Rag Company, ONR for the soap, power washer and electric blower help keep the car looking clean and slick.

BillCannon

I have the same issue on my windows with MF so I got waffle weave towels, which work well.

E46CT

I'd shy away from wax as it makes you dry-buff the car which can always induce scratches. That initial friction will pull fibers from your towels.

Instead move to a base sealant which won't require as much friction then just follow up with toppers every wash and you'll be good to go.

I exclusively wash my jet black Tesla using a single bucket and rinseless wash, using advanced wash medium (laser cut specifically engineered foam--manufactured by Lake Country), grit guard, and advanced washing techniques as well as for drying, a heavily folded drying towel to aid in minimizing pressure points. Gauntlet or similar. When drying my goal isn't perfect dry or any scrubbing or buffing. but merely water evacuation. Actual wiping takes place w/ the topper sealant when the finish is perfected with (hopefully) minimal to no dirt.

The paint looks phenomenal under the sun. Im also a stickler as well for micro marring micro scratches etc. and i get no fiber pulls. even w/ the super plush TRC edgeless towels. the paint is slippery like wet glass. no ceramic coating either.

I use only the rag company towels if i can help it. always fold your towels when contacting paint to prevent pressure points. as far as care? no special care other than i wash car towels with car towels only and i separate my PAINT towels and non-paint towels at all times. I have a special storage container for PAINT towels ONLY. those towels do not touch anything but clean dry paint. another tip to reduce scratch risk.

I love my current system as it's efficient, CHEAP, fast, effective. My complete show car exterior detail of this car takes about 40-45 min start to finish. including wheel wells, wheel liners, wheels tires trim etc.