nthach

My LS has faded paint on the roof, right now i'm waxing it to at least slow the damage down. When i have the resources, i want to get either the roof or the whole car repainted. If i want to get the whole car repainted, i'm thinking about using Imron paint, can it be done?

Guitarman

Use can use either Imron 6000 basecoat/clearcoat or Imron 5000 series single-stage.

If you're doing it yourself, you absolutely MUST use a free air breathing system, as (you probably already know) Imron can KILL YOU if you breath it even after spraying one car. It's probably the most durable paint ever engineered, but it's also the most deadly toxic.

FWIW, It looks pretty good IMO, but to me, their Chroma Base/ Clears look better, and are almost as durable IF you take care of the paint. If you don't want to spend time caring for the paint, then yes, Imron will hold up well.

Most of it still comes down to prep, and the skill of the painter, no matter what kind of paint is used. Poor prep with Imron will make it last about as long as poor prep with Nason or anything else. Good luck.

92 sc three

FYI,

My past experience with Imron was it is a very durable paint, resisted many types of chemicals, except it was not gasoline friendly (would stain) and had a very high gloss / wet look but could not be color sanded & polished. It was originally designed for commercial applications. Unless the formula has changed, you might want to check with a Dupont supplier.

Guitarman

That is what I had thought also... Still somewhat true, to a degree....The Imron that was available years ago is a bit different than what that paint is today, due to VOC laws and changing regulations.

I spoke to a friend at a body shop about Imron, and found out a few things in regards to this;

The single stage Imron should only be sanded/buffed within 3-4 days of spraying it, after that it's not recommended. I don't know if things have changed with the newer version of s/s Imron, but with the old stuff- once it dulled down, you were out of luck. The clearcoat Imrons can also be wetsanded the same way, but because it's non-pigmented as a topcoat, it can be polished for oxidation. Imron is a polyurethane enamel, and you're better off with a 'top of the ladder' acrylic urethane. Polys are actually a step down from them. I would also seriously suggest (If durability is your concern) you go with base/clear and avoid single stage paint of any kind, because it suffers UV degradation greater than a base/clear does.