All about Lexus leather
#181
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welcome jefbobeach.
Woolite works just fine mixed 1:10 with water. In fact, look in your Lexus owners manual and they suggest using a cleaner designed for wool. As with any cleaner, wipe off the residue with a damp microfiber to remove all traces of the detergent.
IMHO, conditioners are worse than useless on protected leather. They can't penertate the urethane coating and get to the leather so they just sit on the coating. They either evaporate or you wipe them up but they leave an oily, slippery or greasy film that makes your seats get dirtier quicker. Some like the feel of this film on their leather but it is not a good thing.
I recommend Leather Masters Protection Cream. This is like a sealant for your leather and dries silky smooth. Since it is water based, it dries and doesn't attract and hold onto dirt and dust. The bonus is that it keeps staining from jeans and belts from damaging your leather. Conditioners actually aggravate this problem.
It is also a good idea to wipe down your leather weekly with a damp microfiber or Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer.
Woolite works just fine mixed 1:10 with water. In fact, look in your Lexus owners manual and they suggest using a cleaner designed for wool. As with any cleaner, wipe off the residue with a damp microfiber to remove all traces of the detergent.
IMHO, conditioners are worse than useless on protected leather. They can't penertate the urethane coating and get to the leather so they just sit on the coating. They either evaporate or you wipe them up but they leave an oily, slippery or greasy film that makes your seats get dirtier quicker. Some like the feel of this film on their leather but it is not a good thing.
I recommend Leather Masters Protection Cream. This is like a sealant for your leather and dries silky smooth. Since it is water based, it dries and doesn't attract and hold onto dirt and dust. The bonus is that it keeps staining from jeans and belts from damaging your leather. Conditioners actually aggravate this problem.
It is also a good idea to wipe down your leather weekly with a damp microfiber or Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer.
Last edited by jfelbab; 08-10-10 at 02:05 PM.
#182
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, I want to do it right. I have a brand new 2010 SC 430. Is leatherique the product to use?
Also the dealer wants to pu a coating called Simonize on the carpet and trhe leather.. this is part of the treatment which will go with the paint sealant protectorant.. it is warranted for 7 years.. I have no idea what is in that product?
Should I tell them not to treat the leather?
Katy
Also the dealer wants to pu a coating called Simonize on the carpet and trhe leather.. this is part of the treatment which will go with the paint sealant protectorant.. it is warranted for 7 years.. I have no idea what is in that product?
Should I tell them not to treat the leather?
Katy
#183
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, I want to do it right. I have a brand new 2010 SC 430. Is leatherique the product to use?
Also the dealer wants to pu a coating called Simonize on the carpet and trhe leather.. this is part of the treatment which will go with the paint sealant protectorant.. it is warranted for 7 years.. I have no idea what is in that product?
Should I tell them not to treat the leather?
Katy
Also the dealer wants to pu a coating called Simonize on the carpet and trhe leather.. this is part of the treatment which will go with the paint sealant protectorant.. it is warranted for 7 years.. I have no idea what is in that product?
Should I tell them not to treat the leather?
Katy
For the right product(s) to use see my previous post.
#184
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was thinking about getting Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner... I don't want the "wet" or "glossy" look. Does Lexol has that effect?
Or can someone please recommend me one that cleans/conditions without the "gloss" ... without breaking my wallet?
Edit:
If I get Lexol, is it better to use the spray bottle or the paste? I have black perforated leather seats on my car.
Thanks!
Or can someone please recommend me one that cleans/conditions without the "gloss" ... without breaking my wallet?
Edit:
If I get Lexol, is it better to use the spray bottle or the paste? I have black perforated leather seats on my car.
Thanks!
Last edited by shadowman; 09-01-10 at 11:37 AM.
#186
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
These LM products are made for our protected leathers whereas most of the leather conditioners on the market today are designed for unprotected leathers. Here is a snippet from JudyB, a respected source in the industry.
What products do you find clean well but are not too harsh?
Hope you find this information useful
This is a response to several articles on leather cleaning recently posted on various forums. We have checked all our facts and discussed various points with a tannery, leather technologists and our product research specialists. The views expressed below have been formed over 20 years of leather cleaning and restoration experience and with constant reference to the people mentioned above.
On some posts recently there has been reference to pH levels. I would imagine that most of you find this very confusing and unnecessary. In all our years of successful cleaning and restoring leather I have never once referred to or been influenced by pH values. My advice would be to use specific leather products that have been tried and tested by your supplier who should also be willing to support you through any problems. The constant reference to pH may lead some to think that pH is more important than product formulation and can therefore use any cleaner of the correct pH. Leather is NOT a fabric and cleans in a different way for which specific products have been formulated. These will have the correct pH values for the job they are designed for, you and I do not need to worry about them even if we do know them.
Strong acids and strong alkalines and dry solvents all have the potential to damage leather finishes so are not used for cleaning, they are used for restoration or technical processes, your cleaners if correctly supplied will not be of that nature.
Anyone supplying a bewildering array of products with varying pH levels is only using it a a marketing ploy and to try to further confuse an already mind blowing array of cleaners and 'conditioning' products. Cleaners produced by companies specific to the leather industry will all have tested and retested their products and they will all be the correct level of pH to use safely as a cleaner. If these cleaners do not do the job then there is something else that is causing the problem which may then need other (more technical products) to rectify.
Spotting and problem solving in the cleaning process should be done using the same specified cleaning products but with reference to CHAT (TACT) Chemical, Heat, Agitation, Time (see separate article – to follow).
As a general rule and particularly with pigment coated leathers you will only be cleaning the surface or finish so your cleaning process will never come into contact with the actual leather (think wiping down a painted wooden surface) so why is the pH of the leather so important. Things that cannot be resolved in this way are more likely not cleaning problems. Ink, colour loss, fading, finish cracking, permanent staining, surface abrasion, most paints, nail varnish, dye transfer, excessive soil due to body oils, inappropriate use of products etc. are damage, not dirt and excessive cleaning without fully understanding the problems, the causes and the solutions is more likely to cause further damage.
Learn what is cleaning and what is restoration and do not let the first develop into the second unless you are prepared to deal with it. It can be expensive if you can’t.
Then we return to the ‘feeding’ ‘conditioning’, ‘nourishing’ topic.
It is incredibly difficult to remove the ‘natural’ oils from leather especially using detergent cleaners so replacing them is totally unnecessary and possibly detrimental on both finished and unfinished leathers. Modern C/T (Chrome Tanned) upholstery leather is a very sophisticated product and has been for decades. The notion that it is something straight from nature that has to be fed and nourished is totally incorrect (unless you are dealing with conservation and restoration in the museum and antique sense). The oils and fats in C/T leather are introduced after the C/T processes have reduced the skin to pure collagen fibre (there maybe a tiny amount of fat left but it is of no significance). The fat liquoring process carefully introduces fats/oils of a specific type back into the leather to coat the fibres. These are balanced to produce the desired end product and are very stable and very difficult to remove. Trying to add more fat/oil etc is totally unnecessary and is of no benefit. On an absorbent leather products used for ‘conditioning’ and ‘feeding’ will soak into the leather upsetting the balance and over time change it to the detriment of the leather. If the leather is non absorbent then these products have no where to go so will sit on the surface, getting slightly sticky and attracting more dirt. If they do manage to ‘get in through the cracks’ the results will be the same as absorbent leathers with the added problem of adversely affecting the bond between surface coatings and the leather.
Copyright LTT Ltd 2007 (amended 2010)
Quote:
What do you use to protect with? In the past I have 303 and Leather Masters Protectant. They do a decent job but I was wondering if there are better.
We have found during testing that 303 does not work on leather as a protector against dirt and oils. LM protector was always of a very high standard and they still produce a good quality protector but there are better on the market. The protector produced by the factory for LTT always keep theirs at a standard at least 50% stronger than any other on the market (this is tested rigorously).
Hope this helps
Hope you find this information useful
This is a response to several articles on leather cleaning recently posted on various forums. We have checked all our facts and discussed various points with a tannery, leather technologists and our product research specialists. The views expressed below have been formed over 20 years of leather cleaning and restoration experience and with constant reference to the people mentioned above.
On some posts recently there has been reference to pH levels. I would imagine that most of you find this very confusing and unnecessary. In all our years of successful cleaning and restoring leather I have never once referred to or been influenced by pH values. My advice would be to use specific leather products that have been tried and tested by your supplier who should also be willing to support you through any problems. The constant reference to pH may lead some to think that pH is more important than product formulation and can therefore use any cleaner of the correct pH. Leather is NOT a fabric and cleans in a different way for which specific products have been formulated. These will have the correct pH values for the job they are designed for, you and I do not need to worry about them even if we do know them.
Strong acids and strong alkalines and dry solvents all have the potential to damage leather finishes so are not used for cleaning, they are used for restoration or technical processes, your cleaners if correctly supplied will not be of that nature.
Anyone supplying a bewildering array of products with varying pH levels is only using it a a marketing ploy and to try to further confuse an already mind blowing array of cleaners and 'conditioning' products. Cleaners produced by companies specific to the leather industry will all have tested and retested their products and they will all be the correct level of pH to use safely as a cleaner. If these cleaners do not do the job then there is something else that is causing the problem which may then need other (more technical products) to rectify.
Spotting and problem solving in the cleaning process should be done using the same specified cleaning products but with reference to CHAT (TACT) Chemical, Heat, Agitation, Time (see separate article – to follow).
As a general rule and particularly with pigment coated leathers you will only be cleaning the surface or finish so your cleaning process will never come into contact with the actual leather (think wiping down a painted wooden surface) so why is the pH of the leather so important. Things that cannot be resolved in this way are more likely not cleaning problems. Ink, colour loss, fading, finish cracking, permanent staining, surface abrasion, most paints, nail varnish, dye transfer, excessive soil due to body oils, inappropriate use of products etc. are damage, not dirt and excessive cleaning without fully understanding the problems, the causes and the solutions is more likely to cause further damage.
Learn what is cleaning and what is restoration and do not let the first develop into the second unless you are prepared to deal with it. It can be expensive if you can’t.
Then we return to the ‘feeding’ ‘conditioning’, ‘nourishing’ topic.
It is incredibly difficult to remove the ‘natural’ oils from leather especially using detergent cleaners so replacing them is totally unnecessary and possibly detrimental on both finished and unfinished leathers. Modern C/T (Chrome Tanned) upholstery leather is a very sophisticated product and has been for decades. The notion that it is something straight from nature that has to be fed and nourished is totally incorrect (unless you are dealing with conservation and restoration in the museum and antique sense). The oils and fats in C/T leather are introduced after the C/T processes have reduced the skin to pure collagen fibre (there maybe a tiny amount of fat left but it is of no significance). The fat liquoring process carefully introduces fats/oils of a specific type back into the leather to coat the fibres. These are balanced to produce the desired end product and are very stable and very difficult to remove. Trying to add more fat/oil etc is totally unnecessary and is of no benefit. On an absorbent leather products used for ‘conditioning’ and ‘feeding’ will soak into the leather upsetting the balance and over time change it to the detriment of the leather. If the leather is non absorbent then these products have no where to go so will sit on the surface, getting slightly sticky and attracting more dirt. If they do manage to ‘get in through the cracks’ the results will be the same as absorbent leathers with the added problem of adversely affecting the bond between surface coatings and the leather.
Copyright LTT Ltd 2007 (amended 2010)
Quote:
What do you use to protect with? In the past I have 303 and Leather Masters Protectant. They do a decent job but I was wondering if there are better.
We have found during testing that 303 does not work on leather as a protector against dirt and oils. LM protector was always of a very high standard and they still produce a good quality protector but there are better on the market. The protector produced by the factory for LTT always keep theirs at a standard at least 50% stronger than any other on the market (this is tested rigorously).
Hope this helps
Here is my approach.
Leather Care
In this primer I well tell you what I do and I've gotten to these steps through many years (50) of trying various products and techniques. If you ask a dozen detailers how they care for leather you will probably get a dozen different answers. People in the leather industry say that the most important leather care a consumer can do is keep it clean.
What I do:
These comments apply to automotive (P) protected leather.
1. I thoroughly vacuum the seats paying special attention to the seams and places like where the seat back meets the seat bottom.
2. I use Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner next with a foam applicator. I squirt some cleaner onto the foam and squeeze it a few time to work up a lather, then agitate in circular motions to a small section (about 1'x1') at a time. I let the foamy mix dwell for a minute or two then I wipe up the residue with a clean microfiber or white, 100% cotton towel. BTW, I make sure to launder the MF towels prior to using them as frequently the dye is not set and might transfer to light colored leather. I use foam for the applicator because it is gentle and effective. A terrycloth covered applicator has more bite but I only use them for cleaning stubborn stains. Besides Leather Master Strong Leather Cleaner, I’ve also had good results using Woolite diluted 1:10 with water.
3. I clean all the leather then follow with a clean, damp (wrung out) microfiber towel to remove any trace of remaining detergent. [Important step] I remove all traces of the detergent as it can trap and hold dirt if not completely removed. It can also shorten the life of the stitching. I then buff the leather dry with dry microfibers and let the leather further air dry for 10-15 minutes. One caution, I don't use a lot of water. I don't want to saturate the leather, especially perforated leather and around the stitching and seams. If the leather is old and has cracks I want to use minimal water and abrasion as well.
4. I don't use leather conditioners and I'll explain why later in this primer. I use Leather Masters Protection Cream instead. This is a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. I apply this with a white lintless cloth and concentrate on applying a smooth, thin even coat of protection. I do the whole car and then wait 10-15 minutes and gently buff with a microfiber or 100% cotton towel. This product seals the topcoat and is not oily or slippery. This will make your leather much easier to clean and resistant to stains from jeans and belts. It leaves the original sheen on the leather and it feels silky smooth. This step is akin to applying a sealant to your paint.
The most significant thing you can do to preserve leather is to keep it clean. Otherwise the dirt will abrade the leather coating and cause early degradation.
This bears repeating... The single most important step to preserve leather is to keep it clean.
You should be aware that what you see with protected leather is really just the painted urethane topcoat that gives the leather it’s uniform grain and color. The painted topcoat is what makes the split leather hide underneath look like top grain leather.
Every time you slide into the car you are abrading the leather topcoat with any dirt that is on the leather. This is the main reason I don't use conditioners on protected leather. Conditioners are either oily or slippery depending on their makeup and they leave behind a film that holds onto dirt and make the seats soil and wear more quickly. Sure, the leather will feel nice initially but you are just feeling the film left on the topcoat. The feel is short lived and the dirt collects and sticks to the film and the seats abrade faster. Also consider that the urethane topcoat is impervious to conditioners. It won’t let the oils or wax through to the leather.
Conditioning leather that is in good shape will lead to shortening it's life. Conditioning worn and cracked leather can be even worse as the oils can seep through the cracks in the topcoat into the underlying leather and weaken the bond of the remaining urethane topcoat, making the damaged area spread.
People like to think that conditioning protected leather will make the them feel softer. Leather is made soft in the manufacturing process and they get harder as moisture evaporates from the skin. Water is the vital lifeblood of leather. Too much and it will shrink and harden as it dries, too little and it will harden and crack.
I clean my leather weekly with Meguiar's Quik Interior detailer and a microfiber. I use QID as it is not glossy , slippery or oily and does have UVA and UVB protection. If you prefer to just use a damp microfiber fine, the best thing you can do is keep your leather clean.
#188
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you speaking about the Windex Auto multipurpose cleaner or some other Windex product?
Most all Windex contains a dye (yellow, blue or green) for coloring. I'd hesitate to use any product containing a dye on ivory or lighter colored leather. You can see where this could lead.
I don't believe that the chemicals that make up the non-ammonia varieties of Windex will harm the leather urethane coating but why not ask them? Windex is made by SC Johnson and they are usually very open about answering customer questions.
Lastly, I'd wonder what the perceived advantage is for using a glass cleaner to clean leather? Do you really think it is a better cleaner than a dedicated product designed specifically for cleaning leather? I also suspect you don't think it enhances the leather scent in your vehicle either.
Would you be inclined to use a leather cleaner for cleaning your windows?
So tell me, why do you just "love" Windex and which Windex product you are so enamored with?
Most all Windex contains a dye (yellow, blue or green) for coloring. I'd hesitate to use any product containing a dye on ivory or lighter colored leather. You can see where this could lead.
I don't believe that the chemicals that make up the non-ammonia varieties of Windex will harm the leather urethane coating but why not ask them? Windex is made by SC Johnson and they are usually very open about answering customer questions.
Lastly, I'd wonder what the perceived advantage is for using a glass cleaner to clean leather? Do you really think it is a better cleaner than a dedicated product designed specifically for cleaning leather? I also suspect you don't think it enhances the leather scent in your vehicle either.
Would you be inclined to use a leather cleaner for cleaning your windows?
So tell me, why do you just "love" Windex and which Windex product you are so enamored with?
#189
Driver School Candidate
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Windex is inexpensive and gets the job done in so many instances. I use it to clean spots from my carpet, on my tile floor, on my counter tops, toilets, walls and the like. So I have one bottle in my cupboard as opposed to several. I realize that my "window cleaner's" blue color could potentially be a problem on some fabrics but if there is a urethane coating on my leather, the color shouldn't be an issue. You are right though about asking SC Johnson about the safety to my leather and it's urethane coating.
As far as the scent left behind, it dissipates pretty quickly.
Thanks for your input.
As far as the scent left behind, it dissipates pretty quickly.
Thanks for your input.
#190
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Windex is inexpensive and gets the job done in so many instances. I use it to clean spots from my carpet, on my tile floor, on my counter tops, toilets, walls and the like. So I have one bottle in my cupboard as opposed to several. I realize that my "window cleaner's" blue color could potentially be a problem on some fabrics but if there is a urethane coating on my leather, the color shouldn't be an issue. You are right though about asking SC Johnson about the safety to my leather and it's urethane coating.
As far as the scent left behind, it dissipates pretty quickly.
Thanks for your input.
As far as the scent left behind, it dissipates pretty quickly.
Thanks for your input.
#192
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Check ebay for leather replacement covers if you want to DIY it. I redid my seats in my ES300 in a little over 18 hours (one day) since I didn't mind working on it myself. I believe it cost me a little under $400
#193
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree with eyezack87 try ebay if not i would get them redone cause used seats would probably a little bit cheaper but if the previous owner did not take good care of them they wont last long at all.
#194
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cracked as in slowly cracking or completely split type cracking? If its the latter, you might want to get them replaced. If they are slowly cracking and you want to save up funds for them, leatherique treatment will slow the process down until you decide to replace them entirely.
Check ebay for leather replacement covers if you want to DIY it. I redid my seats in my ES300 in a little over 18 hours (one day) since I didn't mind working on it myself. I believe it cost me a little under $400
Check ebay for leather replacement covers if you want to DIY it. I redid my seats in my ES300 in a little over 18 hours (one day) since I didn't mind working on it myself. I believe it cost me a little under $400
#195