eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

You take the old leather off and replace it with the new leather. Its a fair match to OEM leather only a bit dry. So make sure to condition it before you install to help make it more pliable
Remove the old leather and reuse the steel wires from the old set. Then you reattach it to the foam using the included hog rings. I'd recommend buying a hog ring plier to make it easier. I was stubborn for the first hour and then gave into buying it

Carver

This past August I did a week long treatment with Leatherique on my 10 year old leather. I did three applications over a week long period and the temp exceeded 90 degrees daily. I am fully aware the leather is coated but the dryness was getting critical, too many Texas summers.

I had the lower driver's seat bolster dyed at the same time. I'm not going to tell you it's buttery soft but the dry feeling is gone. These pictures were taken this month, about 7 months later and I was amazed at the sheen still visible on the leather. I hadn't paid any attention to it but these pics reminded me that the leatherique actually had done some good.











I will do it again this summer, can't hurt.

I think this year I will replace the lower driver's seat bolster to get it up to the standard of the rest of the car.

ken386

I have an is300 with black leather.. what are some of the or best cleaner and conditioner for it

skyspydude

I personally use the Black Magic stuff that comes in the spray bottle. I think it works great and really keeps the leather in good condition

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

I prefer to use the Leather Master's kit found at Detailers Domain. It works quite well and you skip the slightly sticky feeling you have when using the Leatherique twins

dunnojack

I understand all this theoretical mumbo jumbo.

and the conclusion is........... just wipe down the leather with gentle cleaner. Forget about conditioning it. right ?

if it cracks, it cracks. nothing you could have done about it ?
Since conditioner is a joke, and wouldn't have penetrated the urethane coat, it would not have prevented cracking anyway, right?

Has anyone ever taken a microscope to the painted top coat to see if there are actually micropores that allow liquids to penetrate?


ok. all that being said, I have used Lexol on 8 year old wrinkled leather, and it's now softer, after rubbing the snake oil into the wrinkles with my bare hands.
Should I expect the black pigment on top to completely separate and come off the seat soon?
Should I expect catastrophic damage to my seats?

jfelbab

Try this and decide for yourself.

Place a couple of drops of water (H2O) on the leather seat. Leave it sit for around 5 minutes and then tell me if any of the water has penetrated the urethane top coat. I already know the answer to this as I've tried it on several cars. If water, with a relatively small molecular makeup, can't penetrate the topcoat what chance does a heavy cream with even larger molecules have?

dunnojack

yes, i understand all that just fine. I know the water will just sit on there. But you have to also consider water tension that is holding the drop together. This is an inherent water property we all learned about in high school science class.
Modified oil particles may not exhibit this tension, and might be able to penetrate through micropores.... I dunno. I don't have CSI lab equipment, so I can't be sure.

but this whole thread is basically saying............ just neglect your leather. there's nothing you can do about it except to wipe off a few dirt stains.
If it cracks, it couldn't be prevented, because no liquid on earth can penetrate that urethane layer.

Since I have black leather, and can't see any stains whatsoever, I don't have to take care of it for the next 20 years, except to dust it off every now and then.

why bother with any liquid at all? leatherique, leathermaster,.... all that stuff is useless snake oil. What are we rejuvenating, exactly? the urethane coat?
what are you protecting anyway if the urethane coat is invincible ?


is there a scientific explanation why coated leather feels soft and pliable after applying these useless conditioners?
what exactly is making it feel soft? It's not just my imagination. The whole thickness of leather feels more pliable.

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Urethane will wear away due to the friction of our buttocks sliding in/out the seat though. Same with uncoated leather wear.

The Urethane seems to absorb some of the conditioners. I skate so I have 90A duro wheels and 72A duro wheels. Tests that I've done to a 90A duro seem to verify what I just said

nonopr01

I just got an Used IS 250 with Ecru color interiors and the driver seat back is stain with Denim color.
I tried cleaning this off with of the counter cleaner but it does not do anything to the denim blue stain.
Is there anything I can use to clean this off.
Thanks

skyspydude

Not sure if this is true, but I believe that if your leather is getting stained, especially from anything water based, it probably means that things are soaking through the top coat and reaching the leather.

jfelbab

Probably not. You can try gently but briskly scrubbing the area with a leather detergent or Woolite (1:6 mixture) and a nylon brush. First, mix the Woolite with hot water, next apply the mixture to a foam pad and work up a sudsy lather and then apply to the stain. Wet a nylon brush in the mixture and gently agitate the mixture over the stain. Let it dwell for a couple minutes but don't let it dry, then wipe up. Repeat a couple times if you see progress is being made. Try not to overly wet the seats if the leather is perforated and around the seams. Next, be sure to remove all traces of the detergent when you finish. Wet a microfiber or white, 100% cotton towel and wring out then wipe the area thoroughly. This process may reduce the stain but I doubt it will completely remove it unless the seats were sealed with a fluorocarbon based protectant prior to the staining.

This is called dye transfer. The dye from jeans and belts will transfer onto the pigment coated topcoat of the leather. The longer it is left on the more difficult it is to remove. Over time it may fade some. Typically this is no longer a cleaning issue but becomes a refinishing issue. The alternatives are to have your seats refinished or recovered. See a Leather Repair Technician for these alternatives.

Going forward you can prevent this from occurring by using a leather protector like Leather Masters Protection Cream.

nonopr01

I imagine this was the case. I guess it will be like this until I find myself paying to be refinished.
Thanks for the great post.

LIMS407

wow didnt know there is whole section dedicated to leather care,,,been using armorall leather spray on 07 GS and guess its ok but is there better product u guys recommend?? heard good things about lexol 3 in 1 spray,,,any recommendation??

feetsies

I have some Lexol Leather cleaner and conditioner left over from cleaning my leather suit, and I was thinking about using it to clean the leather in my 97 LS400 Coach. Is there another brand you guys recommend?