TOGWT

I’ve always been amazed that such a simple detailing task like the cleaning and care of ethyl carbamate (95% of modern automotive upholstery is finished leather, a hide protected by a covering of urethane) has been made into something so complicated, it seems that the only people who have anything to gain from this have a vested interest in the sale of products.

AngelEye

I have to admit that I didn't read ALL of the pages of this thread but I did read the first several and last several and didn't spot anyone talking about steering wheel leather. (Sorry in advance if I missed it)

I have read on a few different leather cleaners (Armorall being one of them) that they shouldn't be used for steering wheels, all other leather was ok. I am not sure if this is because steering wheels generally have more exposure to the sun through the windshield than the other sections of the car or what but I want to keep the steering wheel leather protected as well as the seats.

I have leather cleaner from Lexus but it doesn't specify. I love my dealership, but getting a response email from Service is almost impossible.

Anyone use anything special on their leather steering wheels? I have black leather btw, so I am not SUPER worried about discoloration.

jfelbab

The leather on your steering wheel is coated leather like the rest of the car. It likely has a thicker coat of urethane but nothing radically different.

To clean it I'd suggest one of the following two options.

1. Woolite / water mix (1:10 ratio) wet a soft foam applicator with this mixture and squeeze to generate a foam. Gently rub the leather to loosen the oil and grim. Let this mix dwell for a minute or two but not dry, then remove with a soft white cotton towel that has been wet and wring out. Examine the towel to see if soil is still coming off and if so repeat the process. For very soiled steering wheels I'd use a soft bristle brush to agitate but not scrub the wheel.

2. Same as the first option but use Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner. This is a stronger detergent that the Woolite.

Once clean, I'd suggest applying Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. This will help to keep the leather from getting soiled.

AngelEye

It sort of freaks me out to use Woolite on leather to be honest. But I may try the Leather Masters. Thanks for your advice!

jfelbab

FWIW, Lexus recommends this type of cleaner on leather. It's in your owners manual, BTW.

As to Leather Masters products, IMO, they are the benchmark that all others are measured against.

Marqevans

The reason these product manufacturers don't want you to use them on the steering wheel is because they will make the wheel slippery. They don't want the liability if a accident is caused by your hand slipping off the wheel!

AngelEye

I saw that in the manual, but it still freaks me out. Woolite wasn't meant for leather. I actually used to work in a tack store and we sold leather care products. But horse saddle leather and car leather are tanned differently (usually).

Instead though, I will look into Leather Masters. I have seen their products mentioned throughout this thread. Thanks again

JRey350hou

where is the best place to get leather masters ? do you have to order it through them.

Mojo122

Don't know if it's the best place to buy, but Autogeek carries their products.

jfelbab

I'd suggest checking with our CL vendors. Some carry it and most offer CL members a discount.

TOGWT

Rickett Benkiser Woolite® - (pH 7.5) (called Zero in Canada) is intended for delicate fabrics and fine washables such as lingerie and cashmere sweaters, so it won’t remove polish, oils or car care products.

Woolite® has a number of issues that do not lend to long term quality care of interior car parts and components. Using a detergent that is meant to be flush rinsed (i.e. rinsed until it runs clear) in a situation where this is not possible, is not recommended as when it dries it will attract dirt and contribute to re-soiling, it will cause leather to shrink and harden .

These types of detergent soaps tend to be formulated with a sodium sulphate to enable foaming, this salt content may not be safe to use on leather upholstery, as this can compromise pigmented leather and / or its polyurethane covering.

This product contains alkalis (sodium hydroxide), which forms a strong alkaline solution when dissolved in a solvent such as water to provide foaming, and a solvent (alcohol) as an aid to cleaning; these will further aggravate the drying out process due to its capillary action and their affinity with moisture.

It also contain optical brighteners (Stilbenes) which are dyes that absorb energy in the UV-B light spectrum thereby accelerating UV degradation when exposed to large amounts of UV light through a car window. They fade, degrade, and destroy fibres and also tend to dry out the upholstery

Rickett Benkiser Woolite® MSDS - http://www.rbnainfo.com/productpro/P...=PL&template=1

A response from a Reckitt Benckiser company representative – on cleaning car interior parts with Woolite®

[Too fully remove the soap requires a large volume of water to flush it away, simply wiping off would leave a large amount of residue behind that could attract more dirt. The second problem they alluded to was that Woolite® is formulated as a gentle fabric cleaner and was never intended to clean materials other then fabric so they have never tested it as such. Asked specifically about Cadillac and Lexus (as well as all other car manufacturers) recommendation for using Woolite® to clean leather, they stated that Woolite® have never recommend their product for cleaning leather] Reckitt Benckiser

jfelbab

Jon, did you know that Woolite now makes an aerosol version of their detergent and here is what they say about it: Perhaps they have a different opinion now. How recent was your contact with them?

For readers of this thread, if you are really interested in an extensive leather discussion, and have a lot of time on your hands, take a read of this thread: http://www.autopia.org/forum/epic-th...recommend.html
There are over 200 responses there.

I'd remind readers that when you are cleaning your vehicle's leather, you are really cleaning paint as your leather is coated with urethane paint. The leather is the backing material for that urethane coating. The leather you see is rugged, durable, good looking, uniform in grain, and color and resists soil and spills and its all due to the paint. The actual leather under that paint is quite ugly so take care not to damage that surface coating. The single most important thing you can do to maintain your leather over the years is to routinely keep it clean.

Like Jon, I'm an old codger who has been involved with detailing for over 50 years. I'd remind everyone that process trumps product nearly every time. Its best to develop good skills and technique and with that you can use many products to good advantage.

Poor technique and poor product = poor results
Poor technique and good product = poor results
Good technique and poor product = good results
Good technique and good product = excellent results

TOGWT

[COLOR="Blue"]I don't remember exactly when I last had contact (2010 or 2011) with them, but I doubt they have changed the formulation; just its delivery (foam) system.

Gr33nHrn3t

iTrader: (2)

Which brand do you guys recommend me using? I'm really close to pulling the trigger on Leather Masters...plus Detailers Domain is offering free shipping on orders over $50

jfelbab

No cleaner/ protectant is going to repair that bolster. That will need a few restoration products. That said, using an oily or silicone laden conditioner will worsen the damage so if you are not going to do the repair now, use the LM cleaner and protection cream. The LM Protection cream is water based and won't degrade the topcoat bond to the remaining area surrounding the damage.

Clearly you can see that the constant abrasion of the leather removed the topcoat. The repair will require a cleaning, sanding and respray of pigment and clear coat. This can be a DIY but it may yield more satisfactory results by seeking out an experienced refinishing specialist in your area. This will also require precise color matching and grain lifting to make this damage disappear. These skills are usually beyond the experience level of the DIYer.