BA_GS400

iTrader: (1)

I've used this product several times, and on different cars, but I keep running into this problem!

The wax is really, really difficult to get off! It's STICKY and GUMMY. What the heck causes that? Is it the wax it self?

I put it on in the shade, only 70 degrees out. I've tried light coats, heavy coats, etc. Let it dry for about an hour on more than one occasion.

When taking it off, it actually makes the rag sticky and I need about 3 good sized de-waxing rags to get it off.
Today, I even did a Meguiars Step 1 cleaner and Step 2 polish just to be sure I had a good base. for the wax

Any advice?



PS. Soon I'll order some better stuff that you guys have discussed in this forum, but today was just too nice to pass up. I had to get the wax done today! (car looks sweet by the way!)

Guitarman

Couple things I can offer...

That wax isn't as widely regarded amongst enthusiast detailers these days, primarily because it's a 1 step cleaner type product ( leaves powdery residue) , and because it's longevity / durability is comparitively weak (some wax test gurus report as little as 2 weeks, or so I've read at Autopia and elsewhere). I have used it in the past, but it wasn't really my cup of tea and found other things to use for cleaner/waxes.

That said, the average consumer seems to like it ok. Not everyone is as picky as us perhaps, but your gripes are certainly legitimate, in that it sounds like you're ready to give it up for something else if you can't solve it.

The problem you're having could be a few things, the chemical composition of the wax (actually a "hybrid" product with natural wax and added polymers) and the ambient conditions you might be seeing, i.e. high humidity. Humidity will cause it to gum up, not completely flash off the solvents in it that allow the film to dry. When the product stays semi-wet, it will be real hard to remove cleanly.

You can try letting it dry on the car even longer, a few hours perhaps, and see if that helps. It may, It may not. I know when I apply Zaino down here in Florida in the summer the humidity keeps it from curing in the recommended time window. I have to triple it or even wait overnight sometimes. Humidity, not fun.

That's about the best I can tell you, maybe someone here has some better suggestions. Good luck!

BA_GS400

iTrader: (1)

I think you've hit upon it with the Humidity thing. I'll see what I can do about my timing for the next wax job.

Thanks for that great info too! It sounds like the cleaner/wax you are referencing is the other Meguiar's product in the round can that is labeled as such. I'm using the liquid wax in the gold plastic bottle. I really thought it was a straight carnuaba wax because I think it doesn't say anything about being a cleaner wax on it's label.

Either way, I think your theory about humidity and curing time is correct. Thanks a bunch man!

bunmango

if you have a Harley dealer in your area, drop by and see if they have some S100 paste wax... it's a small blue and white container and should cost about $12 IIRC. Easiest carnuba wax I've ever used, you just wipe on and wipe off immediately - no need to wait for it to dry.

Guitarman

Yep, bunmango's suggestion is good. Quality product there. Won't last as long as a sealant, but if you like to wax every month or 2 it won't matter.

S100 is one of the top carnaubas on the market.

jfelbab

I don't like that Gold Class product as much as a few other Meguiar's products. I have been using their NXT Tech Wax for the past two months and it is really nice. It is very easy on and off and looks really good. It sells for around $15 and is widely available. It is a polymer sealant like Klasse or Zaino and since these are Last Step Products (LSP) they contains little in the way of cleaners so you will need to prep your finish first.

I'd suggest the following steps if you want "head-turning" results.

1. Wash with Gold Class Wash or NXT Tech Wash using a clean sheepskin or Chenille mitt. Use two buckets, one for soap and one for clean water to rinse the mitt between body panels. This swill help in avoiding swirls and scratches.

2. Cleaning. Start with Quik Clay Detailing System, Mothers Clay or Clay Magic to remove the bonded contaminants. Your finish will feel as smooth as glass when you finish this. Clay the windows when you finish the paint to remove road film. (Tip - Cut the clay bar in half or thirds and put the pieces not in use in a Ziplock bag, If you drop a piece of clay on the ground throw it away and retrieve an unused piece.)

3. I'd then follow with a cleaner like Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner, Deep Crystal Cleaner, Body Scrub or ScratchX. This will remove any oxidation and light swirls from the finish

4. The next step is a polish like #81 Hand Polish, #7 Show Car glaze or Deep Crystal Polish. This step adds the "wet look" gloss to your finish. It should make the paint "pop" with it's gloss

5. Finally seal your shine in with #26 High Tech Yellow Wax, #16 Professional Wax or NXT Tech Wax.

I also like these products to complete the detail.
Tires - Hot Shine High Gloss Tire Shine
Vinyl and Rubber - NXT Generation Tech Protectant or #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner.

lexusk8

Great breakdown list jfelbab. I also use Meguiar's products as the main part of my detailing collection (including Scratch-X, Quik Detail, and Gold Class Carnauba Wax), and I plan to add the use of clay bar into the process soon as I have heard excellent testimonials and results from others. My choice of car wash is P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo. It really does a stand-up job in getting all the obvious dirt and tar off the car, and doesn't leave behind any soapy residues

Definitely looking forward to bringing back the mirror finish once the clay bars come in the mail from http://www.lexuscarcare.com

jfelbab

One of the cars I have hung on to over the years is my 1991 MR2. It still looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. If Meguiars can keep my 14 year MR2 looking like this I am sure my RX330 will look as good over the years. I do use Meguiars professional products and a Porter-Cable orbital polisher on my vehicles.

Marc08EX

jfelbab

Damn man!! Tha'ts what I call a well-maintained vehicle.. Do you have a link on how to "properly" use an orbital polisher? I've used one before and I guess I've applied too much pressure on it and the paint stuck on to the applicator.

Your MR-2's paint job looks really great considering it's a 14 year old car like you said.

jfelbab

Thank you for the compliment. That MR2 is a daily driver with 130,000 miles on it. It spends a lot of time outdoors and is garaged evenings. Once you figure out the procedures and techniques you can keep a car looking good with relatively little effort.

Here is a link to some very good video clinics by Meguiar's own Barry Meguiar. View the Power Polishing Safe & Easy.

http://www.meguiars.com/clinics/clinics_template.cfm

sweetsc400

Your MR2 is very impressive. It's good to see others that actually care about their cars like that. I had a 91 MR2 Turbo 4 years ago and when I purchased it, the paint was in sad shape. The red finish was horribly oxidized. I used the infamous Meguiars 3 step paint treatment to no avale. Then the turbo went out due to a lead foot. . .LOVED the car, though. Anyway, props on the great looking finish!!!