Show Prep / Detailing Guide & Definitions
#32
Ive heard from several people that when using a motorized buffer you can burn your paint... Just wondering if its true? looking for some guidance from those of you who have tried or are actively using a motorized buffer, any tips or techniques would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks
#33
Use a paint cleaner or an abrasive polish. If you feel you must use a chemical try Dupont Prepsol. No reason to play with gasoline.
#34
Ive heard from several people that when using a motorized buffer you can burn your paint... Just wondering if its true? looking for some guidance from those of you who have tried or are actively using a motorized buffer, any tips or techniques would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks
If you are using a dual action (orbital) buffer this is not the case. Just about the only way to harm your paint with a DA is by dropping it on the paint.
#35
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Autopia? I don't think so
I have visited the autopia site and found it to be an advertisment forum for The products and tools mentioned in the cleaning and waxing detail.
You won't get anymore out of that site than you just got here.
Same people preaching the same thing over and over to the choir.
Also if you express a different opinion which is favorable to another product you will get banned.
http://autopia.org/forum/hot-tub/960...ver-tried.html
Thanks but no thanks.
If you are a professional detailer or just have a lot of time on your hands the process above may or may not work for you.
Personally I find that Wax is outdated, problematic, wasteful and time consuming, while the newer pure liquid synthetic/conditioners are easier to use, longer lasting and less work and waste.
You won't get anymore out of that site than you just got here.
Same people preaching the same thing over and over to the choir.
Also if you express a different opinion which is favorable to another product you will get banned.
http://autopia.org/forum/hot-tub/960...ver-tried.html
Thanks but no thanks.
If you are a professional detailer or just have a lot of time on your hands the process above may or may not work for you.
Personally I find that Wax is outdated, problematic, wasteful and time consuming, while the newer pure liquid synthetic/conditioners are easier to use, longer lasting and less work and waste.
#37
what's a hologram? ... no im not talking about shiny baseball cards... or those collectable marvel comic cards.... im refering to what jfelbab said about if you improperly use a rotary buffer... you can get holograms....
please explain that... i want to do a complete detail soon and i plan on buying the "idiot proof" buffer mentioned.. cause im tired to taking 4 hours just to wash and wax.... (i pay attention to everything....) i want to get done faster... and also do some more to bring up the luster in my paint...
please explain that... i want to do a complete detail soon and i plan on buying the "idiot proof" buffer mentioned.. cause im tired to taking 4 hours just to wash and wax.... (i pay attention to everything....) i want to get done faster... and also do some more to bring up the luster in my paint...
#38
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That was awesome. Thanks so much.
I'll post pictures later this spring.
edit: okay, I didn't take pictutes...but I still wanted to post my feedback after using the guide for the exterior.
Dish detergent followed by clay bar followed by regular car wash:
This was really the only way to completely clean the car before using fine cut cleaner with the buffer. The clay bar did loosen additional dirt and contaminents that washing could not.
PortCable buffer and Fine Cut Cleaner:
Without the buffer, this step would have taken forever. The buffer is extremely easy to use, and the results were amazing. Almost all the scratches were gone. Some light swirls remained, which would probably have come out with another pass, but the next steps filled them in. I was being overly cautious on my first try.
Polish:
I had used swirl remover and wax before, but I didn't know about polish. The polish brought out a deep red shine that I'd never seen before. Just a few drops worked for large areas. The buffer just made it easier to apply.
Wax:
I always do this step but never before with a buffer. With a buffer, it's much easier to apply a very thing layer of wax so it won't reduce the shine created by the polish.
Results:
Spectacular. Cars rarely look this good after five years and 75k miles. My dad really couldn't believe it, staring intently at the reflected sunlight searching for the swirls that had vanished. The color is different, too: deeper, almost slippery, like an aquatic mamal.
I'll post pictures later this spring.
edit: okay, I didn't take pictutes...but I still wanted to post my feedback after using the guide for the exterior.
Dish detergent followed by clay bar followed by regular car wash:
This was really the only way to completely clean the car before using fine cut cleaner with the buffer. The clay bar did loosen additional dirt and contaminents that washing could not.
PortCable buffer and Fine Cut Cleaner:
Without the buffer, this step would have taken forever. The buffer is extremely easy to use, and the results were amazing. Almost all the scratches were gone. Some light swirls remained, which would probably have come out with another pass, but the next steps filled them in. I was being overly cautious on my first try.
Polish:
I had used swirl remover and wax before, but I didn't know about polish. The polish brought out a deep red shine that I'd never seen before. Just a few drops worked for large areas. The buffer just made it easier to apply.
Wax:
I always do this step but never before with a buffer. With a buffer, it's much easier to apply a very thing layer of wax so it won't reduce the shine created by the polish.
Results:
Spectacular. Cars rarely look this good after five years and 75k miles. My dad really couldn't believe it, staring intently at the reflected sunlight searching for the swirls that had vanished. The color is different, too: deeper, almost slippery, like an aquatic mamal.
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ny
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what's a hologram? ... no im not talking about shiny baseball cards... or those collectable marvel comic cards.... im refering to what jfelbab said about if you improperly use a rotary buffer... you can get holograms....
please explain that... i want to do a complete detail soon and i plan on buying the "idiot proof" buffer mentioned.. cause im tired to taking 4 hours just to wash and wax.... (i pay attention to everything....) i want to get done faster... and also do some more to bring up the luster in my paint...
please explain that... i want to do a complete detail soon and i plan on buying the "idiot proof" buffer mentioned.. cause im tired to taking 4 hours just to wash and wax.... (i pay attention to everything....) i want to get done faster... and also do some more to bring up the luster in my paint...
which buffer are you getting? I am gonna pic one up in the next week.....just bought a black (shhhh dont say it too loud) volvo wagon....
wanna make that sucker shine!
big al
#40
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Arkansas
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Excellent guide! I skipped the Dishwashing part, kind of seemed.... stupid.
Steps taken:
Hosed down the entire car
Washed wheels with Maguires' NXT Generation car wash.
Washed car with Maguires' NXT generation car wash.
Used a squeegee on windows
Clay barred the entire car for a smoother finish. (It's better that you use gloves, keeps your skin oil off of the clay bar!)
Maguires' Paint cleaner step 1. (I let it sit for about 10 minutes)
Maguires' Polish step 2. (I let this sit for about 15-20 minutes)
Maguires' Wax step 3. (I left this sitting for a good hour)
Cleaned glass with Windex
Vacuumed interior
Sprayed Febreeze to kill odors
Cleaned rubber mats
Used Maguires' Wax step 3. (I left this coat on for another 2 hours)
Total time: 5 and a half hours.
Steps taken:
Hosed down the entire car
Washed wheels with Maguires' NXT Generation car wash.
Washed car with Maguires' NXT generation car wash.
Used a squeegee on windows
Clay barred the entire car for a smoother finish. (It's better that you use gloves, keeps your skin oil off of the clay bar!)
Maguires' Paint cleaner step 1. (I let it sit for about 10 minutes)
Maguires' Polish step 2. (I let this sit for about 15-20 minutes)
Maguires' Wax step 3. (I left this sitting for a good hour)
Cleaned glass with Windex
Vacuumed interior
Sprayed Febreeze to kill odors
Cleaned rubber mats
Used Maguires' Wax step 3. (I left this coat on for another 2 hours)
Total time: 5 and a half hours.
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming that you removed the Paint Cleaner before polishing and removed the polish before waxing?
#41
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ca
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Has anyone tried Liquid Glass LG100 Ultimate Auto Polish/Finish? Saw great reviews on Amazon, but don't see anyone mention this brand in the forum. And do I need to wax after polish or is this the last step?
Thank you,
Thank you,
#42
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Wow- amazingly detailed write up, albeit somewhat daunting....my car is a 93, and im not considering shows anytime soon or such....but i am very interested in restoring the interior and just bringing out the most i can with the paint....which steps are not necessary, or are particularly dangerous to the paint when the car is being detailed by a noob? a lot of the materials are listed as being abrasive and remove paint, so how does one avoid the possibility of stripping the car in the process? lol
dont hate, im a noob- any advice would be appreciated, especially a list of particular interior cleaners that are good for restoring and preserving interior vinyl/leather/etc
dont hate, im a noob- any advice would be appreciated, especially a list of particular interior cleaners that are good for restoring and preserving interior vinyl/leather/etc
#43
Just wondering what you would recommend for a vehicle that has the entire front half covered in venture shield clear bra. I cannot buff or clay bar the surface but want it to match. I have it on my headlights, mirrors, hood, front bumper, lower valance, and fenders....
#44
There is little you can do with this vinyl plastic covering outside of washing it.