New Leather install guide A-Z
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New Leather install guide A-Z
Ok, I have been waiting for my kit to arrive from the GB! Meanwhile I've been reading all the posts from the others who ordered, but no one has posted an A-Z instructions and problems that occured (as well as solutions) while installing their leather. I think the kit comes with instructions, but I would like to hear from someone who has had experience and know what works and what does not. Can someone do this?
#2
I'm getting there. I should be able to get something up by this weekend, but it'll take a while to compile the text and photos. I've made tons of modifications....a lot more than CFI recommends. When I'm done, I'll post photos of each step including the modifications I did.
If you're installing them now, let me pass on what I've learned so far:
1) Pay attention to symetry. It's really easy to get things out of whack by not being symetrical. I'm certain this is the cause of most of the wrinkled installs I've seen, not being too tight on the hog rings. In one case, I was off center by more than 1/2 inch because I was deviding the wire lift by two but failed to notice the wire lift had been sewn on incorrectly and was off by 1/2 inch. So when installing the covers, make sure you use the leather cuts themselves and not the wires lifts as guides. A tape measure is a must. I measured down to the millimeter to get things centered. I redid my first seat bottom 3 times to get it just right.
2) The plastic wire lifts don't provide as much support as the metal OEM ones do. I doubled up on the hog rings at each point seperating them as much as possible(usually about an inch). This dramatically reduced the deflected due to the plastic lifts which dramatically helped eliminate wrinkles. This technique will also prevent the plastic wire lifts from cracking in the future due to fatigue.
3) You'll have to cut a lot of holes and such. Have the proper tools:
A radius exacto knife cutter
A regular exacto knife
A hole punch
A long pair of angled needle nose(couldn't do it without these. This is the most important tool). I use a inch 90 degree. I believe a 45 degree will work just as well.
Wire cutters.
4) I've taken the liberty to install wire lift sleeves in all the places missing from the CFI skins. Jeremy says they're not necessary. So I installed the first seat bottom without the lift between the the two bottom panels and was not satisfied as there were two qualities missing that had been there before. 1) A washboard stiffness, and 2 a taught look. WIthout the lift there, the seem that joints the two bottom panels pops up more than OEM. I installed the seem and reinstalled the seat bottom and the difference is dramtatic. Just like OEM. Based on that, I created sleeves for all the other missing locations on the seat back.
I wish I had more time to go into all the nitty gritty, but I'm short on time until this weekend.
If you're installing them now, let me pass on what I've learned so far:
1) Pay attention to symetry. It's really easy to get things out of whack by not being symetrical. I'm certain this is the cause of most of the wrinkled installs I've seen, not being too tight on the hog rings. In one case, I was off center by more than 1/2 inch because I was deviding the wire lift by two but failed to notice the wire lift had been sewn on incorrectly and was off by 1/2 inch. So when installing the covers, make sure you use the leather cuts themselves and not the wires lifts as guides. A tape measure is a must. I measured down to the millimeter to get things centered. I redid my first seat bottom 3 times to get it just right.
2) The plastic wire lifts don't provide as much support as the metal OEM ones do. I doubled up on the hog rings at each point seperating them as much as possible(usually about an inch). This dramatically reduced the deflected due to the plastic lifts which dramatically helped eliminate wrinkles. This technique will also prevent the plastic wire lifts from cracking in the future due to fatigue.
3) You'll have to cut a lot of holes and such. Have the proper tools:
A radius exacto knife cutter
A regular exacto knife
A hole punch
A long pair of angled needle nose(couldn't do it without these. This is the most important tool). I use a inch 90 degree. I believe a 45 degree will work just as well.
Wire cutters.
4) I've taken the liberty to install wire lift sleeves in all the places missing from the CFI skins. Jeremy says they're not necessary. So I installed the first seat bottom without the lift between the the two bottom panels and was not satisfied as there were two qualities missing that had been there before. 1) A washboard stiffness, and 2 a taught look. WIthout the lift there, the seem that joints the two bottom panels pops up more than OEM. I installed the seem and reinstalled the seat bottom and the difference is dramtatic. Just like OEM. Based on that, I created sleeves for all the other missing locations on the seat back.
I wish I had more time to go into all the nitty gritty, but I'm short on time until this weekend.
Last edited by sorka; 09-22-04 at 11:40 PM.
#3
BTW, I believe/feel that this thread was incorrectly moved from SC300/400 as it has nothing to do with Automotive Care & Detailing. To be here, the subject should be about automative care and detailing and should additionally be generic to the lexus line and not something that would apply *only* to the SC300/400 vehicles as this particular thread does.
This thread covers installation of replacement parts for SC300s and SC400s and belongs in the SC300/400 section.
This thread covers installation of replacement parts for SC300s and SC400s and belongs in the SC300/400 section.
Last edited by sorka; 09-23-04 at 12:14 PM.
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I second that!
Sorka, thank you for your information. I have not recieved the leather yet so if you plan to explain more, there is plenty of time.
Sorka, thank you for your information. I have not recieved the leather yet so if you plan to explain more, there is plenty of time.
Last edited by LexusPunk; 09-23-04 at 05:13 PM.
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