buggsc3

What is the correct way to clean your engine? what should be covered?

ArmyofOne

cover the coils/distributor.

everything else is fine. i would leave the engine running and use a gentle mist of water. spray with simple green and let sit for 5 seconds, then spray with mist of water again.


if you do it while the engine is not on, make sure it hasnt been run in at least 2.5-3 hrs, as you could crack your block, or warp a head with cold water on a hot engine. with the engine running, coolant is flowing and this prevents cracking. thats why the underbody wash in a car wash can do this and not crack your blcok.

TMaxxTim

Be VERY careful when spraying onto the block and where the spark plugs are, if water gets down in there it will leak past the seals and cause the spark plug to misfire and even rust if left overnight. Then you will have to remove the throttle body to replace all of your plugs...not fun.


<<<<<<<<<Experienced this!

BLK13X

I've got a dirty engine bay

Simple green... is that some sort of degreaser? Never heard of it (no I'm not in the US)

jfelbab

Simple Green stains aluminum parts if not completely removed. I'd use a citrus based cleaner for this job just to be safe.

Guitarman

I've found every make /model vehicle a bit different in approach to what you should cover, but if in doubt, cover it. IMO, OHC engines are fussy around the spark plug tunnels, I learned that on Miatas at least. Once the water gets in there, you have to get it out or you'll have ignition misses.

Electronic boxes, connectors and modules should also be avoided, particularly with high pressure, as the water can get past the dilectric grease in the harnesses and corrosion begins. You may not notice a problem for a while, but once it starts to corrode, you get warning lights to computer control failures. I've heard about it many times. I read of one detailer a while back that had to pay ~$650 for a computer module on a Cadillac that failed immediately after washing the engine.. .

Aluminum foil works well for covering accessories because it conforms to different shapes, but you have to be careful not to rip or puncture it or it won't serve its purpose to protect from moisture, and secure it well so the water pressure doesn't knock it loose.

I really avoid doing it to my cars generally, preferring to give them hand wipe downs in conjunction with toothbrushes and paint brushes, and vacuumes with brush attatchments. Of course, if you let the engine get real dirty, it's MUCH much harder to do it tthat way. I clean my cars' engines at least 3x a year, so they never get to the point I have to hose them down.

You can always degrease the bottom end via a hose, from underneath or by holding the nozzle halfway down through a bracket or cranny from the top, to avoid getting the top half wet. Then finish the top half by hand. It's more time consuming, but safer.

There's some real expensive stuff in there, and yes, most of it can get a "little' wet from road splash etc, but higher pressure water forced onto and into some things isn't what the engineers had in mind.

And Jim is correct, anything highly alkaline at full strength can and will stain aluminum, especially if the motor is hot or warm and left unrinsed for too long. Castrol Super Clean and Simple Green are both culpable in this respect, among others. If you want to use them, DILUTE them 3 to 1 AT LEAST. (Three parts water, 1 part cleaner). I would advise against using the GUNK type solvent degreaser, because you'll be smelling it for a few days through the firewall and AC inlet venting, not to mention the petroleum distillates in them may clean great, but also are known to degrade rubber, and aren't environmentally friendly.

I would also suggest using a water based protectant such as Vinylex or 303 Aerospace protectant on the rubber parts. They dry NON greasy, and won't attract dirt the way some of those spray on engine detailers do.

rgarjr

iTrader: (1)

Guitarman,

Do you know what they use in detail shops to clean the black engine parts (covers) with to make it shine? It could be armol all but I don't know if it's that.

Guitarman

It's just their bulk silicone vinyl/rubber protectant, every shop uses something different. They buy it in bulk and it may or may not be that great, you'd have to ask that particular shop and hope you'll get a straight answer. Don't be too surprised if they don't even know what it is.

You can obtain the same results with lexol Vinylex. It's probably better quality than most shops and detailers generally use for such things.

P.S. I know *some* places use tire foam spray on engine bay rubber. I have a friend that works at a repair facility that has a detailing section/ business out back, and he told me this recently FWIW.

RRocket

Guitarman,

My best friend details his entire engine bay with that spray on tire cleaner. (you knowm the one you spray on the tire, it foams, cleans and shines all at once). I was astounded...but believe it or not, it came out amazing. And it took him all of 2 minutes. It should work amazing on the GS, since there is plenty of plastic, rubber and black pieces....

Guitarman

Ron, a friend of mine does it as well, and gets great results, albiet a bit too bling bling "shiny" for me. I prefer a like "new" look.

The only thing you have to look for is dimethyl silicon oils in some of them. Bad for rubber, and attracts dirt like an AC fitting leak.

Other than that, to each his own.

parula

GMan, you're great, I think I'm gonna skip engine cleaning without a pro doing it!

1993ES300x

well. guys. i ain't no expert or anything.. i try those engine degreasers. it was my first time. so i don't know if i should put water over it like instructed on the can.. then my engine started smoking hahaha.. crap in my pants.. then i hosed it down.. never do that again!!!.. so i found another way.. use a STP engine degreaser.. it totaly doesn't smoke up.. just spray the STP stuff on and wait 5 to 10 minuts near your local gas station and use their Air pump and spray air on it ... it cleans it pretty good. but not bling bling.....

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Does this require a hose-down afterwards, or no water required?

Guitarman

I would spray it on then wait a few minutes for it to soak the dirt, then rinse it with a hose, (cover the coil packs, spark tunnels and other electronics) then lastly spray a final coat of the tire foam and let it dry.

I think substituting a dedicated cleaner ( citrus based) would be preferable to using the tire foam as a cleaner step, but it will still work ok on minor dirt.

Some of those tire foams stay oily though, and that attracts dirt, which Is why I prefer 303 Areospace Protectant or Lexol Vinylex as an engine bay plastic/rubber dressing (they dry to a hard dry finish). Cheers.

HarrierAWD

Simple Green is over-priced. Use the Wally World All Purpose Cleaner, only 96 cents. Works just as well.