paint overspray removal
04-01-05, 03:00 AM
#1
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paint overspray removal
ive had my 93 black sc300 for 4 years now. And since the day i bought it , it had a paint chip almost dead center on the hood.The rest of the car is flawless, : 
but all i ever see is that damn chip. That had grown to a 3x3 in sqare , and thanks to my touch up it was raised and looked aweful. Anyhow i met a supposd pro painter who said it would be perfect, but turned out like crap 
.his prep work was decent but theres overspray and even areas where the paint is thicker than others. I have tried to get the overspray off with clay, and cleaner wax,but it is still there, anyone have any suggestions? : 
04-01-05, 07:52 AM
#3
The clay is worth a try, but may not work...
If the painter used urethane enamel, then what can happen is the paint in effect re-polymerizes INTO the surrounding paint, not just ON it. In other words it becomes part OF it chemically. This is because the catalyzers ( hardeners) in the 2k paint melt into the old paint. Clay can't touch that kind of overspray unfortunately. The Langka would be a good idea if he used an un-catalyzed paint (with no hardener) but *usually* they spray 2k paints that have hardeners/activators. I know I do at least. Langka can't touch those.
It will depend if the overspray was "dry" or "wet" when he sprayed the area. Chances are, with that close proximity, it will have been "wet" and that's the problem kind of overspray that follows my explanation above. "Dry" overspray usually occurs when an adjacent vehicle gets the overspray, and the paint floating through the air lands on the surface in a state that's less solvent, and not as wet after floating through the air a distance. Conversely, that's why close proximity overspray is usually too attatched/ melted into the surrounding paint to clay off. You can clay all day with that type and get nowhere.
The answer: Block wetsanding to flatten and remove it. It will work though it will take work. The real question I have though is;
Did the painter use a chemically similar paint and did he blend it properly? I'm *assuming* the car is single stage yes? Because for clearcoat black he would have had to reclear the entire hood if he spotted a small amount of color in. If he didn't blend well, then wetsanding will remove the overspray, but also define the levels of paint between old and new. In essence, you may see a "ring" of new paint unless he prepped and sprayed it correctly (over reduction in the periphery is a must). Of course, you may not know till you block wetsand it (i would recommend 2000 grit). My *guess" is that it will still look much better then it does now
If you've never done it nd want to try, let me know, I'll help you out.
Not trying to make this overly technical for "technical's sake", but unfortunately it IS technical as to the answer. Best of luck either way. Good luck!
If the painter used urethane enamel, then what can happen is the paint in effect re-polymerizes INTO the surrounding paint, not just ON it. In other words it becomes part OF it chemically. This is because the catalyzers ( hardeners) in the 2k paint melt into the old paint. Clay can't touch that kind of overspray unfortunately. The Langka would be a good idea if he used an un-catalyzed paint (with no hardener) but *usually* they spray 2k paints that have hardeners/activators. I know I do at least. Langka can't touch those.
It will depend if the overspray was "dry" or "wet" when he sprayed the area. Chances are, with that close proximity, it will have been "wet" and that's the problem kind of overspray that follows my explanation above. "Dry" overspray usually occurs when an adjacent vehicle gets the overspray, and the paint floating through the air lands on the surface in a state that's less solvent, and not as wet after floating through the air a distance. Conversely, that's why close proximity overspray is usually too attatched/ melted into the surrounding paint to clay off. You can clay all day with that type and get nowhere.
The answer: Block wetsanding to flatten and remove it. It will work though it will take work. The real question I have though is;
Did the painter use a chemically similar paint and did he blend it properly? I'm *assuming* the car is single stage yes? Because for clearcoat black he would have had to reclear the entire hood if he spotted a small amount of color in. If he didn't blend well, then wetsanding will remove the overspray, but also define the levels of paint between old and new. In essence, you may see a "ring" of new paint unless he prepped and sprayed it correctly (over reduction in the periphery is a must). Of course, you may not know till you block wetsand it (i would recommend 2000 grit). My *guess" is that it will still look much better then it does now
If you've never done it nd want to try, let me know, I'll help you out.
Not trying to make this overly technical for "technical's sake", but unfortunately it IS technical as to the answer. Best of luck either way. Good luck!
Last edited by Guitarman; 04-01-05 at 09:53 PM.
04-05-05, 09:04 PM
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Hey , thanks you guys for the advice . its very much apreciated. Well i had already tried the clay,and like you said it did almost nothing to the oversprayed area, i plan on wetsanding it tnis weeked,but i want to have alot of time so as not to rush it.
as far as the paint that was used, it was 1 single can of duplicolor-i even still have the can -i took it out of th garbage. For as much area as he was doing theres no way that was enough to do it thoroughly,at least i wouldnt think?
Guitarman -when you asked if it was a 1 stage paint, my paint is original, so is the factory paint 1 stage , i would think its 2 stage ? And if it is 2 stage then i will have to do a clearcoat, because i know for a fact he didnt .
So after i do the wetsanding i think ill do th clearcoat. Does that seem right? or should i try the langka first?.....or?
as far as the paint that was used, it was 1 single can of duplicolor-i even still have the can -i took it out of th garbage. For as much area as he was doing theres no way that was enough to do it thoroughly,at least i wouldnt think?
Guitarman -when you asked if it was a 1 stage paint, my paint is original, so is the factory paint 1 stage , i would think its 2 stage ? And if it is 2 stage then i will have to do a clearcoat, because i know for a fact he didnt .
So after i do the wetsanding i think ill do th clearcoat. Does that seem right? or should i try the langka first?.....or?
04-05-05, 09:28 PM
#5
Well, first let me say I'm REALsurprised that clay didn't remove it if it's DupliColor, since that's got no chemical hardeners in it. Very weird. Anyhoo...
Lexus used a single stage (no clear) black on the black onyx cars, up until about ~2000 on most models, so your oem paint (if it truly is original paint) is indeed single stage.
I'm a bit concerned that your painter used shaker can stuff. Not the best thing for blending, but if he wetsanded the area around it peoperly and sprayed it well, who knows, maybe it worked ok.
Usually you spot blend SS by wetsanding slightly out around the periphery then reducing with a "blending agent" or "faseout thinner", the paint with each pass outward, so you don't get a dry edge that defines the spot. You finish with straight blending agent, then compound when dry.
]
Without that fadeout thinner or some type paint reduction, it would be damn hard to get the spot blended well, but I'll let you be the judge on the end result, and if you're pleased that's all that matters.
I don't know what Langka will do with that spray can enamel. If it was lacquer it would work, but I don't know about predictable results with it, with the info you provided. You could spot test a little if you're so inclined. The reason Langka works is because the solvent in it melts down lacquer based touch up paint. It probably won't have any effect on the Dupli-Color enamel.
Lexus used a single stage (no clear) black on the black onyx cars, up until about ~2000 on most models, so your oem paint (if it truly is original paint) is indeed single stage.
I'm a bit concerned that your painter used shaker can stuff. Not the best thing for blending, but if he wetsanded the area around it peoperly and sprayed it well, who knows, maybe it worked ok.
Usually you spot blend SS by wetsanding slightly out around the periphery then reducing with a "blending agent" or "faseout thinner", the paint with each pass outward, so you don't get a dry edge that defines the spot. You finish with straight blending agent, then compound when dry.
]
Without that fadeout thinner or some type paint reduction, it would be damn hard to get the spot blended well, but I'll let you be the judge on the end result, and if you're pleased that's all that matters.
I don't know what Langka will do with that spray can enamel. If it was lacquer it would work, but I don't know about predictable results with it, with the info you provided. You could spot test a little if you're so inclined. The reason Langka works is because the solvent in it melts down lacquer based touch up paint. It probably won't have any effect on the Dupli-Color enamel.
04-05-05, 09:48 PM
#6
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im prety sure that its original paint only becaus i got it at 80 k miles,and unless it was done prior to that i know i havnt had it done.
do you think compounding may helpto try and even it out a little bit ,or should i go ahead and wetsand it? or something else? and something that just crossed my mind was when he was preping it ,he sanded it down pretty heavily, ill have to look a little closer to see if maybe its not overspray , and maybe its all sanded away in those spots?
do you think compounding may helpto try and even it out a little bit ,or should i go ahead and wetsand it? or something else? and something that just crossed my mind was when he was preping it ,he sanded it down pretty heavily, ill have to look a little closer to see if maybe its not overspray , and maybe its all sanded away in those spots?
04-05-05, 10:19 PM
#7
I think compounding it would be a safer choice initially. What do you have at your disposal. product-wise? Also, will it be via machine (rotary) or by hand?
On your last point, if he did sand through you'd be seeing primer, since that's all you have under your color. What is the tone of that area like? (color-wise). Overspray will feel rough like sandpaper, like when you need to clay your car, micro bumps.
On your last point, if he did sand through you'd be seeing primer, since that's all you have under your color. What is the tone of that area like? (color-wise). Overspray will feel rough like sandpaper, like when you need to clay your car, micro bumps.
Last edited by Guitarman; 04-05-05 at 10:23 PM.
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04-06-05, 12:07 AM
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well i just went out and looked at it really closely, and its a very light haze like ring , and its only noticeable from 1 angle. and i would call it smooth but looking at it up close its actually some overspray from the paint and in a couple spots its grey primer on top of the wax and black paint thats very slight.But i went ahead and usd up the clay i had and i think its wearing it down a bit now. i have a feeeling if i compound it right, i can get it to look ok.
But since its primer i see i suppose i will need to even it out and paint it over. my assesment is that he did a decent prep job and got it pretty levl,but for whatever reason didnt use enough paint for what he tried to cover.im really not sure why he painted more than half the hood for a 3 inch square...f but anyway....
As far as supplies im slim . but i have a buffer , some cleaner wax and polimer type wax too. some swirl mark remover , and i have some 2000 grit sand paper. but no paint or compound , so i will get a few things tomorrow and try and get it to look better.And thanks again for youre insight. I appreciate it and i will fill you in on how it goes.
I tried to take pics but too much glare.
But since its primer i see i suppose i will need to even it out and paint it over. my assesment is that he did a decent prep job and got it pretty levl,but for whatever reason didnt use enough paint for what he tried to cover.im really not sure why he painted more than half the hood for a 3 inch square...f but anyway....
As far as supplies im slim . but i have a buffer , some cleaner wax and polimer type wax too. some swirl mark remover , and i have some 2000 grit sand paper. but no paint or compound , so i will get a few things tomorrow and try and get it to look better.And thanks again for youre insight. I appreciate it and i will fill you in on how it goes.
I tried to take pics but too much glare.
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