Acid Rain Protector?
#1
Acid Rain Protector?
I recently purchased a new 2005 Honda CR-V to use as a winter car (Pittsburgh) and eventually for my 15 year old learn to drive on. The car must sit out. I am wondering what to do to protect the hood and roof against acid rain spots. I am even willing to put something on (especially the roof) that you can see.
When the vehicle was on the dealer lot (before prep), it had a plastic-y type film that was applied by spray or brush. And it lifed off like "colorforms". Maybe something like that? Any ideas/help? Also, as I asked in another post, does using a "sealer'glaze" before waxing really do anything for a new vehicle? it's obvious what it does for an older one.
When the vehicle was on the dealer lot (before prep), it had a plastic-y type film that was applied by spray or brush. And it lifed off like "colorforms". Maybe something like that? Any ideas/help? Also, as I asked in another post, does using a "sealer'glaze" before waxing really do anything for a new vehicle? it's obvious what it does for an older one.
#2
Originally Posted by daryll40
I recently purchased a new 2005 Honda CR-V to use as a winter car (Pittsburgh) and eventually for my 15 year old learn to drive on. The car must sit out. I am wondering what to do to protect the hood and roof against acid rain spots. I am even willing to put something on (especially the roof) that you can see.
When the vehicle was on the dealer lot (before prep), it had a plastic-y type film that was applied by spray or brush. And it lifed off like "colorforms". Maybe something like that? Any ideas/help? Also, as I asked in another post, does using a "sealer'glaze" before waxing really do anything for a new vehicle? it's obvious what it does for an older one.
When the vehicle was on the dealer lot (before prep), it had a plastic-y type film that was applied by spray or brush. And it lifed off like "colorforms". Maybe something like that? Any ideas/help? Also, as I asked in another post, does using a "sealer'glaze" before waxing really do anything for a new vehicle? it's obvious what it does for an older one.
My maintenance regimen is to apply Meguiar's NXT Tech booster spray wax after every other washing. That way the car always looks like it has just been detailed and always has a good coat of protection from the elements. The booster spray wax takes me less than 20 minutes to do my MR2 and less then 30 minutes to do my RX330.
I answered your glaze question in your other thread.
Last edited by jfelbab; 06-28-05 at 11:07 AM.
#3
Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, even wax doesn't seem to prevent acid rain spots. My wife drives a 2003 White (Pearl really) Mercury Mountaineer that we bought new in Sept 2003. It still looks like new, but you can, indeed, see acid rain spots if you look closely. In spite of being garage kept and waxed frequently with MALM'S carnuaba wax.
#4
Originally Posted by daryll40
Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, even wax doesn't seem to prevent acid rain spots. My wife drives a 2003 White (Pearl really) Mercury Mountaineer that we bought new in Sept 2003. It still looks like new, but you can, indeed, see acid rain spots if you look closely. In spite of being garage kept and waxed frequently with MALM'S carnuaba wax.
Acid rain damage is an etching of the paint. When a highly acidic drop of water begins to evaporate on the paint surface, the water evaporates, not the acid, therefore the acid solution becomes stronger as the water dissipates. After time the paint under this acid will deteriorate leaving an indentation in the surface. If this action continues long enough the clear coat will fail and the car will need repainting.
Wax, especially a polymer coating will prevent acid rain etching if it is refreshed often. I use NXT Tech Wax and after every other wash I replenish the coating with NXT Tech Booster Spray Wax. Acid rain will not harm the finish so protected and the car is washed frequently.
#5
Originally Posted by jfelbab
It's important to note that water spots and acid rain damage are two distinctly different things. Water spots are an above surface contamination. A mineral deposit left on the paint. These can be removed with a paint cleaner, clay, vinegar or a polish, like #80.
Acid rain damage is an etching of the paint. When a highly acidic drop of water begins to evaporate on the paint surface, the water evaporates, not the acid, therefore the acid solution becomes stronger as the water dissipates. After time the paint under this acid will deteriorate leaving an indentation in the surface. If this action continues long enough the clear coat will fail and the car will need repainting.
Wax, especially a polymer coating will prevent acid rain etching if it is refreshed often. I use NXT Tech Wax and after every other wash I replenish the coating with NXT Tech Booster Spray Wax. Acid rain will not harm the finish so protected and the car is washed frequently.
Acid rain damage is an etching of the paint. When a highly acidic drop of water begins to evaporate on the paint surface, the water evaporates, not the acid, therefore the acid solution becomes stronger as the water dissipates. After time the paint under this acid will deteriorate leaving an indentation in the surface. If this action continues long enough the clear coat will fail and the car will need repainting.
Wax, especially a polymer coating will prevent acid rain etching if it is refreshed often. I use NXT Tech Wax and after every other wash I replenish the coating with NXT Tech Booster Spray Wax. Acid rain will not harm the finish so protected and the car is washed frequently.
I had an SC430 that was exposed to the rain at max 10 times, was never allowed to dry in the sun and was waxed every other week and it developed acid rain etching. When I waxed it I used NXT followed by Meguiars #16 24 hours later.
It appears to me that the Japanese paints are more susceptible to the etching. I have had problems on Hondas, Lexus, Toyotas and Mazdas. I have never had the etching problems on any of my Mercedes autos.
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