A little how-to on chip repair.
09-07-06, 03:04 PM
#31
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Thanks for the info.
So I'm looking at SFX-2 on autopia right now and I was wondering if I should get one of their polishing pads? What's the difference? You mention use a cotton applicator (is that the same kind you use to apply waxes and such?), but autopia has some fancy... professional applicator... or is something simpler like this good enough?
Lastly (for now), after you sand down the paint blob, you use SFX-2 to get out some of the marks, you should use SFX-3 to finish the job so to speak? Essentially, you move from 2500 grit paper to 3000 grit, to SFX-2 to SFX-3 (going finer and finer) until you can't see it anymore?
So I'm looking at SFX-2 on autopia right now and I was wondering if I should get one of their polishing pads? What's the difference? You mention use a cotton applicator (is that the same kind you use to apply waxes and such?), but autopia has some fancy... professional applicator... or is something simpler like this good enough?
Lastly (for now), after you sand down the paint blob, you use SFX-2 to get out some of the marks, you should use SFX-3 to finish the job so to speak? Essentially, you move from 2500 grit paper to 3000 grit, to SFX-2 to SFX-3 (going finer and finer) until you can't see it anymore?
Last edited by AznJason; 09-11-06 at 01:36 PM. Reason: [learned more about polishes]
03-29-08, 08:40 AM
#33
I bought some Nikken unigrit sandpaper (2500, 3000) [they make the Unigrit for Meguiars] from PineWood Derby Den (sales@pinewoodderbyden.com) off of Ebay. They sold me pieces of 4x6 unigrit for a $1.25 each (just specify what grit you need). I figure I can try this out with some sandpaper before I fork out for the larger bulk pieces. The company is based out of South Carolina. I'll probably try this process on my black GS400 sometime in the next week or so using my PorterCable 7424 ROB. Will post results then.
03-29-08, 06:11 PM
#34
Pole Position
Thanks for bringing the thread back alive again...
Went to the dealer for some work and got back the car with some scratches on the side next to the hood...looks like someone was leaning over the car to work on the engine and scratched the paint. Both scratches were pretty deep.
I used 3M medium cut and fine cut rubbing compound to remove the scratches (mostly). I stopped because I was afraid I was rubbing too hard as to remove the clear coat....in fact I started seeing a little bit of blue (my paint color) on my rubbing cloth.
After reading the description above, did I remove the clearcoat...and if so, what are the consequences. Finally,what should I do about it?
Thanks for the help.
Also looking forward to others' success at following the tips in the original post.
Went to the dealer for some work and got back the car with some scratches on the side next to the hood...looks like someone was leaning over the car to work on the engine and scratched the paint. Both scratches were pretty deep.
I used 3M medium cut and fine cut rubbing compound to remove the scratches (mostly). I stopped because I was afraid I was rubbing too hard as to remove the clear coat....in fact I started seeing a little bit of blue (my paint color) on my rubbing cloth.
After reading the description above, did I remove the clearcoat...and if so, what are the consequences. Finally,what should I do about it?
Thanks for the help.
Also looking forward to others' success at following the tips in the original post.
03-30-08, 07:08 AM
#35
Pole Position
OK guys...I just ordered the Langka blob eliminator (NOT the kit).
Looking at the threads and the tesimonials on the Langka site, it appeared the prepaint is just isopropyl alcohol, and the sealant may be a wax...not worth the extra $20.
Can anyone confirm. The site says the prepaint has "extra bonding agents"...but I think that is BS.
Let me know your thoughts/experience.
Looking at the threads and the tesimonials on the Langka site, it appeared the prepaint is just isopropyl alcohol, and the sealant may be a wax...not worth the extra $20.
Can anyone confirm. The site says the prepaint has "extra bonding agents"...but I think that is BS.
Let me know your thoughts/experience.
03-30-08, 07:35 AM
#36
Boy this is all very good Info but I don't think I have the guts to take a sanding block to my already hurt car. I guess you need a pro to do this type of repair! Again, thanks for the Info! We at least know that it can be done! Picus you are a talented Man!!!!!!
03-30-08, 11:23 AM
#37
Lexus Fanatic
Thanks for bringing the thread back alive again...
Went to the dealer for some work and got back the car with some scratches on the side next to the hood...looks like someone was leaning over the car to work on the engine and scratched the paint. Both scratches were pretty deep.
I used 3M medium cut and fine cut rubbing compound to remove the scratches (mostly). I stopped because I was afraid I was rubbing too hard as to remove the clear coat....in fact I started seeing a little bit of blue (my paint color) on my rubbing cloth.
After reading the description above, did I remove the clearcoat...and if so, what are the consequences. Finally,what should I do about it?
Thanks for the help.
Also looking forward to others' success at following the tips in the original post.
Went to the dealer for some work and got back the car with some scratches on the side next to the hood...looks like someone was leaning over the car to work on the engine and scratched the paint. Both scratches were pretty deep.
I used 3M medium cut and fine cut rubbing compound to remove the scratches (mostly). I stopped because I was afraid I was rubbing too hard as to remove the clear coat....in fact I started seeing a little bit of blue (my paint color) on my rubbing cloth.
After reading the description above, did I remove the clearcoat...and if so, what are the consequences. Finally,what should I do about it?
Thanks for the help.
Also looking forward to others' success at following the tips in the original post.
The dealer should be the one who corrects the scratches he put in your car. I would demand they fix them to the way it was or for them to pay to have that part repainted. You payed them money to work on your car and they ended up causing more damage, that is unacceptable.
05-04-08, 04:20 PM
#38
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My cheap paint job
Hello,
I had a dent in my door, which was pulled, but when I had a freind paint the door it left lines that looked like wrinkles. it seemes to have gotten worsed over the past few months. The color and match was good.
1.) I this fixable?
I had a dent in my door, which was pulled, but when I had a freind paint the door it left lines that looked like wrinkles. it seemes to have gotten worsed over the past few months. The color and match was good.
1.) I this fixable?
09-18-08, 08:58 AM
#41
iModerate
I seen this post a while ago and have been planning on trying it as soon as I got a PC. Just got my UDM from GlimmerGlass a week or so ago and will be trying this soon. I'll post pics for sure.
01-27-09, 07:54 AM
#44
after going over this thread again I am going to try this on a few spots on my car. I have all the equipment except the sandpaper. As soon as I get some free time it's on 
. Thanks again for the great writeup
. Thanks again for the great writeup
01-27-09, 10:11 AM
#45
Lexus Fanatic
Has anybody tried Dr. Colorchip. I have a bunch of paint chips and small road rash chips on my hood and front bumper and would love something that is better at taking care of that then just the sloppy bottle of dealer paint and a toothpick or brush that never turns out that well. I have read a few people who really like Dr. Colorchip or Langka and others who say it is not worth the expensive price it is.