Paint is messed up
#31
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Before I picked up the car from the dealership.. I had them throw in a wax job... but due to poor lighting and bad weather (winter) when I picked up my car.. I didn't realize that there were tons of scratches on my car already... I complained to them but they wouldnt do anything... hence all those swirl marks. I'm not sure if they used a buffer when they waxed it.. but after I picked up my car.. it has never been touched by anything except my hands... and NO WAY I rubbed hard enough for the paint to come off...
It couldn't have been the shop that painted my grille. On Saturday when I left the track, I thoroughly examined my entire car before I left and it was okay.. Its just that the next morning when I wanted to wash all the bugs off.. i found that spot.
It couldn't have been the shop that painted my grille. On Saturday when I left the track, I thoroughly examined my entire car before I left and it was okay.. Its just that the next morning when I wanted to wash all the bugs off.. i found that spot.
Last edited by GSE25; 05-01-06 at 08:16 AM.
#33
Originally Posted by tqlla3k
Also, where can I find good towels nowadays? I used to pick them up at wal mart last year... and they were pretty good. Now, I have noticed that the new towels are hard as rocks.... I went to Advanced auto... same thing.
#35
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by AndyL
Ditto. I am also waiting to get the first hands on various PakShak microfibre cloths. Hope they arrive soon.
#36
Liquid Bra Champion
I've always been told NEVER to use MicroFibre cloths on the exterior finish, especially not on clear coat. MF material is usually 70% Polyester and 30% Polyamide, both synthetics, and prone to scratching soft surfaces. Again, I'd stick with 100% cotton for exterior drying.
#37
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by TimboIS
I've always been told NEVER to use MicroFibre cloths on the exterior finish, especially not on clear coat. MF material is usually 70% Polyester and 30% Polyamide, both synthetics, and prone to scratching soft surfaces. Again, I'd stick with 100% cotton for exterior drying.
#38
Liquid Bra Champion
Originally Posted by al503
Not all MF is created the same. Check out the detailing forums. (Good quality) MF is the material of choice for pretty much everything now.
- Trevira Finesse (polyester)
- Fortrel Microspun (polyester)
- DuPont Micromattique (polyester)
- Shingosen (polyester)
- Supplex Microfiber (nylon)
- Tactel Micro (nylon)
- Silky Touch (nylon)
- Microsupreme (acrylic)
They are synthetic. Use at your own risk.
#39
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by TimboIS
Actually they all are pretty much the same, to use the MicroFibre(tm) and ALL synthetic by definition. They may go by different trade names:
- Trevira Finesse (polyester)
- Fortrel Microspun (polyester)
- DuPont Micromattique (polyester)
- Shingosen (polyester)
- Supplex Microfiber (nylon)
- Tactel Micro (nylon)
- Silky Touch (nylon)
- Microsupreme (acrylic)
They are synthetic. Use at your own risk.
- Trevira Finesse (polyester)
- Fortrel Microspun (polyester)
- DuPont Micromattique (polyester)
- Shingosen (polyester)
- Supplex Microfiber (nylon)
- Tactel Micro (nylon)
- Silky Touch (nylon)
- Microsupreme (acrylic)
They are synthetic. Use at your own risk.
I'd recommend going to autopia.org and read up on what the people who detail for a living use.
BTW, sorry to the original poster for the thread drift.
#40
Liquid Bra Champion
Originally Posted by al503
That's like saying cotton is cotton.
I'd recommend going to autopia.org and read up on what the people who detail for a living use.
BTW, sorry to the original poster for the thread drift.
I'd recommend going to autopia.org and read up on what the people who detail for a living use.
BTW, sorry to the original poster for the thread drift.
I agree to some extent, those people are professionals. Just like I wouldn't buy a metal pick to clean my own teeth. Any tool in thw wrong hands will cause damage (referring back to the original topic at hand, clearly rubbed raw). Dragging a MF cloth across your hand will grab (try it), dragging MF across an improperly cleaned/prepared surface will do the same, with nasty results. I'm only putting out the safest alternatives. With that said, give anyone enough rope, they're free to hang themselves.
#41
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by TimboIS
I don't understand your analogy, you should check http://www.cotton.org
I agree to some extent, those people are professionals. Just like I wouldn't buy a metal pick to clean my own teeth. Any tool in thw wrong hands will cause damage (referring back to the original topic at hand, clearly rubbed raw). Dragging a MF cloth across your hand will grab (try it), dragging MF across an improperly cleaned/prepared surface will do the same, with nasty results. I'm only putting out the safest alternatives. With that said, give anyone enough rope, they're free to hang themselves.
I agree to some extent, those people are professionals. Just like I wouldn't buy a metal pick to clean my own teeth. Any tool in thw wrong hands will cause damage (referring back to the original topic at hand, clearly rubbed raw). Dragging a MF cloth across your hand will grab (try it), dragging MF across an improperly cleaned/prepared surface will do the same, with nasty results. I'm only putting out the safest alternatives. With that said, give anyone enough rope, they're free to hang themselves.
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread....+versus+cotton
#42
Originally Posted by GSE25
Before I picked up the car from the dealership.. I had them throw in a wax job... but due to poor lighting and bad weather (winter) when I picked up my car.. I didn't realize that there were tons of scratches on my car already... I complained to them but they wouldnt do anything... hence all those swirl marks. I'm not sure if they used a buffer when they waxed it.. but after I picked up my car.. it has never been touched by anything except my hands... and NO WAY I rubbed hard enough for the paint to come off...
It couldn't have been the shop that painted my grille. On Saturday when I left the track, I thoroughly examined my entire car before I left and it was okay.. Its just that the next morning when I wanted to wash all the bugs off.. i found that spot.
It couldn't have been the shop that painted my grille. On Saturday when I left the track, I thoroughly examined my entire car before I left and it was okay.. Its just that the next morning when I wanted to wash all the bugs off.. i found that spot.
Dont cry, just get it fixed
Lorna
Last edited by DaSweetgrl; 05-01-06 at 10:08 PM.
#43
Originally Posted by GSE25
Those are lint from the 100% cotton terry towel I used to polish...
ptmIS350: have you gotten your spot on your hood fixed?
ptmIS350: have you gotten your spot on your hood fixed?
#44
Lexus Test Driver
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Originally Posted by TimboIS
You need more than "proper" equipment, you also need proper technique. I assume you're washing it yourself (not one these "hand" wash places), and you're not using ANY synthetic mits, chamois, or towels. These often contain small abrasive particles. Also, never let the wash mit touch the ground (obviously), or the bottom of the wash bucket (you'll just be transferring dirt and grime back onto the mit). And never use anything but 100% pure egyptian cotton towels (if that's what you use to dry). May other towels that claim to be 100% cotton contain (ie. made in India for example), contain some particles that weren't combed out during the spinning process.
#45
Super Moderator
Originally Posted by Zephyr
man I just wash my car with a mit from 99 cents only store and my paint is fine. I used gold class liquid wax to remove any scratches and it's working perfectly!
I'd get rid of that 99 cent mitt in favor of a good sheepskin one. The best way to get rid of scratches and swirls is to avoid getting them in the first place.