How to get rid of bird poop stains?
11-04-06, 11:54 AM
#1
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How to get rid of bird poop stains?
I have a 2006 Scion tC (Flint Mica/Dark Gray). I was away from home for a little over 2 weeks and during that time period, my car somehow became a bird poop magnet and it was covered with droppings when I returned.
I took my car to the car wash today and spent a great deal of time washing the car to get rid of all the stains. I decided to wax it upon returning home, however when I checked closely, I could see the imprints of the bird stains still in the paint. I'm not sure how to get rid of this. I spent a lot of time washing the car today and I don't know if a second wash will help.
Any tips/suggestions? Would a clay bar help? (I've never used one and I'm interested in learning how to use it)
I took my car to the car wash today and spent a great deal of time washing the car to get rid of all the stains. I decided to wax it upon returning home, however when I checked closely, I could see the imprints of the bird stains still in the paint. I'm not sure how to get rid of this. I spent a lot of time washing the car today and I don't know if a second wash will help.
Any tips/suggestions? Would a clay bar help? (I've never used one and I'm interested in learning how to use it)
11-04-06, 12:57 PM
#2
If it ate through the clear coat, you probably need to use a pc or something to fill it in. i would try the claybar first, but don't use polish/wax until you clean it.
11-04-06, 02:42 PM
#4
pc is a term used for porter cable, a brand name for an orbital polisher.
But, again, I'd try the claybar first. if not, you might want to consult a professional detailer before buying a polisher.
But, again, I'd try the claybar first. if not, you might want to consult a professional detailer before buying a polisher.
11-04-06, 02:58 PM
#5
Clay won't work in such a case. Paint is GONE, and clay isn't abrasive enough to level the existing paint to become even with the valleys in the etchings;
You do have a couple choices:
Abrasive polish Realize it will take a long while to see results by hand, but this way you'll be leveling the surrounding area slowly, which is what you want to do to avoid cutting through and creating a larger problem. You can do this by hand with a rubbing compound, or something like Meguiar's Scratch X. You'll need to final polish with a finer polish such as a swirl remover, to obtain optimum clarity and finish, even if you don't fully remove the etching(s).
Wetsanding If you've got experience wetsanding paint this is what I would do, using 2000 grit paper and a foam block behind it. It IS risky, but wil give you the fastest cut while still allowing you some control. With a rotary buffer, you often don't have that control over a small area, and you can cut through. Again, If you do this, you'll also have to compound and polish the area afterward. This is what I do with bird etchings, key marks etc. and I know how far I can sand before I have to stop. Once you have leveled out the factory orange peel, STOP. That's all you have realistically before you're on shaky ground and might cut right thru to the basecoat.
Don't try the wetsanding though unless you've done it before.
The Porter Cable will work *somewhat*, but REALLY slow. It's not made to remove paint very fast or efficiently. A rotary is used to solve serious issues like this. Here again, you must be cautious.
Those aside, take it to a pro detailer or body shop.
You do have a couple choices:
Abrasive polish Realize it will take a long while to see results by hand, but this way you'll be leveling the surrounding area slowly, which is what you want to do to avoid cutting through and creating a larger problem. You can do this by hand with a rubbing compound, or something like Meguiar's Scratch X. You'll need to final polish with a finer polish such as a swirl remover, to obtain optimum clarity and finish, even if you don't fully remove the etching(s).
Wetsanding If you've got experience wetsanding paint this is what I would do, using 2000 grit paper and a foam block behind it. It IS risky, but wil give you the fastest cut while still allowing you some control. With a rotary buffer, you often don't have that control over a small area, and you can cut through. Again, If you do this, you'll also have to compound and polish the area afterward. This is what I do with bird etchings, key marks etc. and I know how far I can sand before I have to stop. Once you have leveled out the factory orange peel, STOP. That's all you have realistically before you're on shaky ground and might cut right thru to the basecoat.
Don't try the wetsanding though unless you've done it before.
The Porter Cable will work *somewhat*, but REALLY slow. It's not made to remove paint very fast or efficiently. A rotary is used to solve serious issues like this. Here again, you must be cautious.
Those aside, take it to a pro detailer or body shop.
11-04-06, 08:53 PM
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dunno if you'll do this or not...grow a nail on ur index finger for a week or so...then scratch the hell outa it while washing the car with whatever you use.......it wont scratch paint off...and if you think this is nasty then you dont love your car enough...
seriously it will work...give it a try
seriously it will work...give it a try
11-04-06, 09:04 PM
#7
Clay won't work in such a case. Paint is GONE, and clay isn't abrasive enough to level the existing paint to become even with the valleys in the etchings;
You do have a couple choices:
Abrasive polish Realize it will take a long while to see results by hand, but this way you'll be leveling the surrounding area slowly, which is what you want to do to avoid cutting through and creating a larger problem. You can do this by hand with a rubbing compound, or something like Meguiar's Scratch X. You'll need to final polish with a finer polish such as a swirl remover, to obtain optimum clarity and finish, even if you don't fully remove the etching(s).
Wetsanding If you've got experience wetsanding paint this is what I would do, using 2000 grit paper and a foam block behind it. It IS risky, but wil give you the fastest cut while still allowing you some control. With a rotary buffer, you often don't have that control over a small area, and you can cut through. Again, If you do this, you'll also have to compound and polish the area afterward. This is what I do with bird etchings, key marks etc. and I know how far I can sand before I have to stop. Once you have leveled out the factory orange peel, STOP. That's all you have realistically before you're on shaky ground and might cut right thru to the basecoat.
Don't try the wetsanding though unless you've done it before.
The Porter Cable will work *somewhat*, but REALLY slow. It's not made to remove paint very fast or efficiently. A rotary is used to solve serious issues like this. Here again, you must be cautious.
Those aside, take it to a pro detailer or body shop.
You do have a couple choices:
Abrasive polish Realize it will take a long while to see results by hand, but this way you'll be leveling the surrounding area slowly, which is what you want to do to avoid cutting through and creating a larger problem. You can do this by hand with a rubbing compound, or something like Meguiar's Scratch X. You'll need to final polish with a finer polish such as a swirl remover, to obtain optimum clarity and finish, even if you don't fully remove the etching(s).
Wetsanding If you've got experience wetsanding paint this is what I would do, using 2000 grit paper and a foam block behind it. It IS risky, but wil give you the fastest cut while still allowing you some control. With a rotary buffer, you often don't have that control over a small area, and you can cut through. Again, If you do this, you'll also have to compound and polish the area afterward. This is what I do with bird etchings, key marks etc. and I know how far I can sand before I have to stop. Once you have leveled out the factory orange peel, STOP. That's all you have realistically before you're on shaky ground and might cut right thru to the basecoat.
Don't try the wetsanding though unless you've done it before.
The Porter Cable will work *somewhat*, but REALLY slow. It's not made to remove paint very fast or efficiently. A rotary is used to solve serious issues like this. Here again, you must be cautious.
Those aside, take it to a pro detailer or body shop.
dunno if you'll do this or not...grow a nail on ur index finger for a week or so...then scratch the hell outa it while washing the car with whatever you use.......it wont scratch paint off...and if you think this is nasty then you dont love your car enough...
seriously it will work...give it a try
seriously it will work...give it a try
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11-04-06, 09:08 PM
#8
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because...the screwdriver will scratch the cat...whilst ur nail would not...hey man...im just sayin...its worth the try... i did it...and all u have to do afterwords is to wash ur hands...
11-05-06, 06:30 AM
#9
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dunno if you'll do this or not...grow a nail on ur index finger for a week or so...then scratch the hell outa it while washing the car with whatever you use.......it wont scratch paint off...and if you think this is nasty then you dont love your car enough...
seriously it will work...give it a try
seriously it will work...give it a try
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