cwazyguy22

Hey everyone, I've done a lot of searches on this stuff on Google and here in CL. I still haven't found an answer I'm satisfied with.

What exactly is the stuff, and is it worth the money?
Could I just get it waxed and by some OTC stuff to maintain it?
Dealer charged me like $600 for it and I'm getting really mixed reviews on the quality and worth of this product. I already agreed to it but am going to try to back out since I haven't had it applied yet; that is if I feel I got ripped with this stuff. Pros, help me out?

Thanks in advance~

ff_

Just buy a bottle of paint sealant, and apply it yourself. Last time I used it, it went on and off just like reqular wax.

The stuff that the dealer applies is of unknown quality, as far as I'm concerned. And they charge you faaaaaaaaaar more than it's worth.

ULTiMaX99

iTrader: (5)

i don't think it's worth it. seems like an overpriced wax job to me. use that money n get a clear bra instead.

PhilipMSPT

iTrader: (5)

Clear bra (true physical protection) > Auto Armor (wax).

eddo1

This is similar to the undercar coating they want to charge. You don't need it. It doesn't do jack. Save the money and get a clear bra instead

Jace7

not worth it.
Buy some good Pinnacle or Wolfgang. Invest in a nice buffer and do it yourself.

You can probably do a better job then they would.

I know I do.

You can even buy a teflon based wax which is supposed to "protect" your car for a few months longer.

jfelbab

For the price ($600) you can buy a Porter Cable dual action polisher and enough supplies (car wash, clay, cleaners, polishes, sealants, waxes, pads, microfiber towels, leather cleaners, wheel and tire cleaners and coatings, vinyl protectants, etc.) to last you the life of the car. You will then not only be able to have it applied once, but anytime you see that the vehicle needs it. You will also have enough supplies to do many future vehicles you may buy or any other vehicles you already own. The PC makes the job of detailing a car at least 10 times faster and easier.

Save your money and do it yourself. Also keep in mind that the 16 year old minimum wage kid that the dealer hires to do your car doesn't have the same incentive to do a good job as you do. You may just wind up with a swirled mess as many have reported they have experienced.

LXMN

I agree with this.

Jace7

agree. buy your own stuff, do it yourself.
I rarely let the dealerships even wash my car, even if they power wash it.
I do it myself. plus, i like doing it myself. relaxing.

cwazyguy22

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions everyone, they're greatly appreciated. Since I'm going to be doing this stuff on my own, would you guys happen to have any suggestions on where I can learn how to: .
1)wash,detail,wax and maintain my exterior (GFM)
2)clean, detail, and maintain my interior
3)treat my leather
4)clean my nav screen
Thanks in advance~

jfelbab

There are a lot of "right" products, everyone has their favorites. Whichever products you choose pay particular attention to technique.

1. Wash your car with a premium car wash. Skip the dishwashing soap. Use two buckets, one for the soapy water and the other for the rinse water. Buy new sheepskin wash mitts and replace them often as they get dirty. Better, use the older mitts for cleaning wheels and/or wheel wells. Pay attention to using the proper dilution of car wash. Wash your car in the shade when the paint is cool or you will be fighting water spots. Wash a panel at a time then rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket. Put it back in the soapy bucket and load it up with soap and do another panel. Work from the top down. If you encounter stubborn dirt, move on and don't try to rub it harder with the mitt to remove it. When you finish washing and drying you can remove this stubborn dirt with clay. Buy a couple of waffle-weave microfiber drying towels. The "Water Magnet" is a good choice. Before drying with a towel try removing the hose nozzle and with slow running water, sheet the water drops off the car. Follow with the drying towels.

Now it's time to examine your paint condition. Draw your dry fingers over the hood and if it feels anything but glass smooth you should clay the car. Go buy a clay kit. Cut the clay bar in half or thirds and store the unused parts in a baggie. If/when you drop a piece toss it and retrieve an unused piece. When claying your paint do a small section 1'x1' or 2'x2' at a time using lots of supplied lube. Use a light touch and when the surface feels smooth wipe dry with a regular microfiber towel.

Time to clean and polish the paint. Use a dedicated cleaner and polish or a combo product that does both. If you are doing this by hand try the Meguiar's Deep Crystal paint Cleaner and Polish pair. Apply with a foam or microfiber covered applicator. These products should be removed before they dry, unlike a wax or sealant. Use several microfibers to remove the product and you don't need to be too **** about how completely you remove this as the wax or sealant will remove small spots you missed. If you want to just jump to a cleaner wax product you can do that too. If you decided to purchase a Porter-Cable Dual Action polisher then you have a wider array of product choices available. This device makes detailing your car about ten times easier. If you purchase this tool I'd suggest getting three polishing pads and three finishing pads. You might also purchase a few microfiber buffing bonnets. Using the PC, I'd suggest starting with a product like Meguiar's #80 (Speed Glaze). If you have swirls and scratches then I'd suggest you also get Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish.

Choose a wax or sealant. I personally like Meguiar's Gold Class liquid or NXT Tech Wax liquid but everyone has a favorite so just buy something from a quality manufacturer. Apply this wax or sealant very thinly. The thinner the better. Wax or sealants need to set-up or haze before removal. If you see a lot of haze you probably are applying the product too thickly. Remove with fresh, quality microfiber towels. Don't use cheap mircofibers as they may scratch your paint and the cheap ones don't perform as well as the quality ones. Buff lightly to remove the haze turning the towel often. It's a good idea to use multiple towels. Don't over buff or you may thin the wax or sealant and reduce it's durability.

2. On the interior, I use Meguiar's Quik Detailer on all the dash and vinyl. 303 is another often recommended product. For glass use Stoners Invisible Glass or Meguiar's NXT glass cleaner with a microfiber towel for streak free glass.

3. For leather, apply a cleaner and conditioner about every three months, more frequently in hotter weather. Lexus sells a cleaner and conditioner that are very good and not too expensive.

4. Your Nav screen is plastic and can scratch easily. It is also prone to chemical damage. Try using a microfiber towel dampened, not wet, with some distilled water and buff gently with a dry microfiber towel. For more robust cleaning look for a product called Kleer Screen (http://www.klearscreen.com/) usually available in any computer type place.

Good luck.

cwazyguy22

Awesome, detailed advice.

Thanks a bunch.