RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

Okay. My car is a repaint. Im unsure of who repainted it. I dont know how thick or thin the clearcoat is.

My car feels rough. Nearly like 2K grit sand paper, basically feels like they half-assed the wet sanding part.

So without trying to ruin the paint (because it looks great and it shines!), I tested on a fender, claybar 2 times, and 3 layers of wax. It feels remotely better, but nothing to jump for joy about.

Any ideas? What about a glaze, will that help me? or am i screwed?

cino135

try knocking it down with a high RPM buffer and some cutting agent/compound.
i think most on here prefer the PC for the DIYers!!
just a thought, and good luck

tuan92129

If its paint overspray...then clay bar it. If its orange peel, you'd want to wet sand the whole car/have someone check how much clear is on the car.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you may need to wet sand the car.. Take it to a good shop and get an idea of what you have to do.. GL...

cino135

overspray, geez. im ashamed that wasnt my first thought. good lookin!
overspray, no prob, as long as you have good elbows and some clay. no worries. if its on the glass, glass cleaner and a razor blade. just be careful of the dreaded skreech that sounds like nails on a chalkboard.

LXMN

Impossible to tell how much clear coat is on the car now. A mil guage can only tell how much material is on the car, ergo, the thickness in between the guage itself and the metal on the car. This includes primers, sealants, base coats, and clear coats.

I would suggest going with a light compound first. If no progress, move up to heavier compounds in steps until you get the results desired. No need to wetsand unless absolutely necessary. This should be your last resort.

If you are still not satisfied with this, bite the bullet and take it to a detail shop and cross your fingers that you picked the right one. Good luck.

tuan92129

dooh forgot about that part
For a repaint..do they sand all the way down to the metal or just the top layer of paint?

LXMN

Usually they just break the surface of the paint and try to level it out as best possible. You have to sand the paint/primer with a least a scrotchbrite red pad (bare minimum) to break the smooth surface of a paint job. Primer is almost always applied afterwards at this point.

No need to go down to bare metal. If this happens, self-etching primer is then needed to prevent rusting. Followed by primer,sanding,sealant,basecoat,clearcoat.

cino135

keeping it real

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the insight.

i clayed, polished, and then applied flash wax. Its starting to get better already!

i want to use a better polish than the turtle wax paste ( i have 3 containers full of it..)

what do you guys recommend?

lexusondubs

iTrader: (9)

dude show me your car and ill help you out