recommended rotary buffers and polishers.
#16
If my memory serves me well the only difference between the two is the counterweight. The 7224 has the 5", the 7336 has the 6' counterweight. I've used both and find little difference in vibration with either weight as long as you don't run it full speed.
#17
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The Griot's buffer is a Porter Cable painted red with a different handle. It's definately not worth the price he's askng for it. I bought mine from Lowes.
As far as pads, I use Lake County pads from classic motoring accessories (www.properautocare.com). Buy a flexible velcro backing plate - it's awsome. The backing plate screws onto the buffer and the pads have a matching velcro backing that makes changing pads a snap.
For starters, get an orange power pad and a white power pad. If your paint is in really bad shape then get a yellow also. If you are going to apply a glaze, then get either a black or red pad. You can get the black to apply the glaze, apply and remove the wax by hand, and buff with the red pad.
If you have moderate to bad defects then get a medium cut polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish is regarded by many as about the best medium cut polish you can buy. After using that, switch to the white finishing pad and use a light cut polish. Many people swear by Menzerna Final Polish II but I use Zaino ZPC-Fusion as it leaves the paint absolutely clean - no wipedown with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcholol is required.
If you dont have any noticeable swirls, then just use the ZPC with the white pad to achieve a mirror-like surface.
Remember, if you are relying on the wax or sealant to provide the gloss than you have already lost. Gloss is 90% surface prep and 10% final wax/sealant application. If you polish to a great finish then you'll be happy with whatever wax or sealant you apply on top of it.
Classic motoring accessories does sell pad kits that you can buy. Oh, get the 6.5" pads not the 7.5" pads. I bought the 4" pads also and I am glad I did.
Tim
As far as pads, I use Lake County pads from classic motoring accessories (www.properautocare.com). Buy a flexible velcro backing plate - it's awsome. The backing plate screws onto the buffer and the pads have a matching velcro backing that makes changing pads a snap.
For starters, get an orange power pad and a white power pad. If your paint is in really bad shape then get a yellow also. If you are going to apply a glaze, then get either a black or red pad. You can get the black to apply the glaze, apply and remove the wax by hand, and buff with the red pad.
If you have moderate to bad defects then get a medium cut polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish is regarded by many as about the best medium cut polish you can buy. After using that, switch to the white finishing pad and use a light cut polish. Many people swear by Menzerna Final Polish II but I use Zaino ZPC-Fusion as it leaves the paint absolutely clean - no wipedown with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcholol is required.
If you dont have any noticeable swirls, then just use the ZPC with the white pad to achieve a mirror-like surface.
Remember, if you are relying on the wax or sealant to provide the gloss than you have already lost. Gloss is 90% surface prep and 10% final wax/sealant application. If you polish to a great finish then you'll be happy with whatever wax or sealant you apply on top of it.
Classic motoring accessories does sell pad kits that you can buy. Oh, get the 6.5" pads not the 7.5" pads. I bought the 4" pads also and I am glad I did.
Tim
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I forgot to mention, if you use a medium cut polish with an orange or yellow pad, then your surface may have a slight haze when you are done. That is why you finish the job with a finishing polish and a white pad. Doing so will get rid of all haze and leave your paint absolutely gorgeous - sparkling...smooth as a baby's bottom...and as shiny as a mirror. It should look good enough for your neighbor to ask what wax you used - you can answer that you haven't waxed it yet!
Tim
Tim
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