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Wetsanding the orangepeel off and restoring the shine

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Old 05-09-07 | 09:12 AM
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Default Wetsanding the orangepeel off and restoring the shine

Hi all:

I wetsanded a newly repainted area of my suv due to heavy orangepeel with 2000 grit. Then i used my PC 7336SP with the original foam pad with turtlewax rubbing compound followed by polishing compound to get rid of the sand marks and restore shine. It seems the sanding marks are gone but I cannot get the shine back to 100%. Whatever I do it seems that the shine is still 80% not there and so I tried with terry cloth cover for the foam pad and using the polishing compound I cannot get the shine with that either. At night I notice the shine not being there and I notice alot of swirls.

What do I need to get this to look "wet" again? Will my PC do this after wet sanding or and I needing to get an orbital to do this work?

Thanks
Old 05-09-07 | 09:15 AM
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Your definetly gonna need a buffer/polisher i tryed with just rubbing compund and got alot of swirls so i gotta still buff it then polish it but wont come back 100% after just by hand, you NEED a buffer/polisher
Old 05-09-07 | 09:19 AM
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I'm sorry, I wasn't clear.....I used the PC for applying both rubbing and polishing compounds in that order. I was wondering where I'm falling short, is it the turtle wax products, the original foam pad being used (is it a wax application only pad?), or is it because the PC is not an orbital polisher capable of doing some serious polishing to the surface?
Old 05-09-07 | 09:21 AM
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The PC has brought the dull finish post-wet sanding a long way, I'm just wondering why I'm not able to get the full wet look and what I'll need to get that showroom shine since all orangepeel has been removed at this point.
Old 05-09-07 | 09:26 AM
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Yeah i think your PC is not "spinning" fast and or hard enough, im talking about something like this would be able to get out all of those swirls, i highly doubt its the buff wax or polish that your using thats failing...

Just make sure that if you do get one of these if you have never used one before you are very careful, novices can and will very often BURN their paint with this if they havent used one before...

Old 05-09-07 | 12:06 PM
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I agree, the P/C will not suffice for this particular task, you need either heavy pressure by hand or a rotary buffer and the heat it yields, to break down the compound and soften the paint.

Secondly, if you're referring to the Tins of Compond Turtle Wax sells, throw them away. I'm dead serious. They are meant to be used by hand for starters, and they don't work all that great even then.

Go buy either 3M or Menzerna liquid rubbing compound and a finer polish too, example; Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish respectively, or 3M Rubbing Compound and 3M Machine Glaze.

They will give you perfect clarity when used properly with a rotary cutting pad and polishing pad (in that order).

Seriously, you need to ditch the Turtle Wax stuff for this job. They make some ok products for the average Joe doing minor remedial paint tasks, but wetsanding haze is not one of them. It's out of their league.

If you can't swing all of it $$$, including the rotary, just take it to a pro and they'll get it looking great for you. Good luck!
Old 05-09-07 | 12:26 PM
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Couldnt have explained it better myself, good stuff guitarman!!
Old 05-09-07 | 01:33 PM
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Thanks! I'll take you up on this advice! I was hoping that some new cutting and polishing pads in lieu of the standard foam pad they include with the 7336 plus some new 3M polish would do it but I guess not.
Old 05-09-07 | 04:57 PM
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turtlewax products are not going to cut it..lol
You will need more professional products and a rotary buffer and cutting pads.
First, I'd go with Meguiars medium cut cleaner, then the swirl remover.
Old 05-09-07 | 05:39 PM
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hmmm why are all these sites like autopia and auto-geek swearing that this polisher is capable of all this hard work....one site even has a step by step where they restore the dull oxidized finish of an old beat up truck:

http://www.premiumautocare.com/how-t...-polisher.html

This is primarily why I purchased this polisher but it seems that its not that though a tool. Unless the standard foam pad versus the cutting pads sold on that site are the difference. But the consensus here is that this dual action polisher just doesnt have the sheer grunt needed to really melt the top ot the paint to a wet shine.
Old 05-09-07 | 05:43 PM
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It's your foam pad and turtle wax.

First of all, the foam pad shouldn't even touch the car. The only use I found for it is when you put an MF bonnet over it to remove wax. It's really great.

Second of all, the turtle wax isn't good. If anything use 3M rubbing compound since you can get it almost anywhere (walmart, autozone, etc). Most polish will work find as long as you used 2000 grit to wet sand.

Third of all, using a PS is possible. You do not need a rotary for this job. You can buff faster, but a PC will still work.
Old 05-09-07 | 05:50 PM
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I'm guessing your car looks like this after you sanded it (but in larger areas):



After running it down with the PC with the right pad/polish:



If you had the wrong pads/polish to begin with, using a rotary with your skill would make the car even worse. In extreme cases, you might even burn off your paint

So invest in some good pads, buy the right polish, and you'll be able to fix your car no problem
Old 05-09-07 | 05:57 PM
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Yeah my car looked like that. The PC brought it back 80% of the way and added swirls. What specific pads and polish did you use to achieve that result? Good job BTW!
Old 05-09-07 | 05:58 PM
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Why did you need to wetsand those two strips alone? Was the car repainted and the paint ran?
Old 05-09-07 | 06:04 PM
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I had two deep scratches down to the primer. I added touchup paint and then wetsanded the area. I myself use Lake Country pads. They were around $70 for a set, but it was money well spent. They gave me a bunch of different pads. I have a rotary and a PC so I bought the kit for the rotary since I already had backing plate for the PC. I use the same pads for the rotary and the PC so it was a win-win situation for me

During that time, I used the 3M rubbing compound. Another possibility for having the swirls is if you used too much product and dont let the product break down enough. Or, the pad is too abrasive for polishing down to a final finish (most likely the case) But for swirls, use 3M unless you want to wait for shipping (if buying on autopia and such). Everyone has their own favorite polish. I have a bunch so I can't really recommend any of them. They all do their own job on different cars

But you dont need a rotary to finish the job. Just the PC, correct pads, correct polish, and lots of patience.


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