Want to order OEM Paint? Where?
06-06-07, 12:52 PM
#1
Want to order OEM Paint? Where?
Ive been learning how to paint. Been getting pretty good at it actually. Where can I buy OEM 3K3 Garnet Red Pearl? Is this a 3 stage? Base, Red, Clear?
Im looking for the paint for spray guns not rattle can paint.
Thanks
Matt
Im looking for the paint for spray guns not rattle can paint.
Thanks
Matt
06-09-07, 04:47 PM
#6
I'd get friendly with a local body shop. On some...but not all...plastics, they'll use an adhesion promotor ahead of the primer. Sometimes they'll also apply two coats of primer to aim for a better color match. In any case, I'd ask someone there to mix you up a pint or two. Depending on the stages, you can expect to pay a maximum of $50. They'll probably even give you advice on pressure, overlap, etc. to use when applying....very important for metallic and pearls.
Another option is to check the yellow pages for an automotive paint store. I was surprised to learn that there's one less than three miles from me. They will likely be less expensive than the body shop.
Another option is to check the yellow pages for an automotive paint store. I was surprised to learn that there's one less than three miles from me. They will likely be less expensive than the body shop.
06-10-07, 07:09 AM
#7
Are you going to paint over the old finish? If so, all you need to do is degloss/scuff the old paint, you don't need an adhesion promoter no matter what panels you're painting.
If OTOH, you are stripping some or all of the paint then you'll need primer on the metal surfaces and an adhesion promoter on the urethane parts.
If your existing paint is solid, and not flaking, then scuffing it is fine. Scuffed oem paint is actually an an excellent base for new paint over top.
As VroomVroom mentioned, you need to find an auto paint supply store. Every large city/ town has one.
That's where I get mine.
I don't know if your paint is 2 or 3 stage, but if it's 3 stage then you'll need the base tone, the pearl coat, then the clear.
I've painted many cars, so if you need more help just ask.
Lastly, make sure your prep is through, bordering on overkill. Degrease, degrease, degrease. Painting is much easier when you don't have silicone gremlins to deal with. There WILL be some dirt (unavoidable unless you have a pro paint booth, and even then...) to deal with, but you can sand / buff it out later. Expect to spend 3x on prep vs painting it. If there's been body work or paint work done on the car previous, please use a tinted acrylic sealer on those areas, trust me on that one.
If OTOH, you are stripping some or all of the paint then you'll need primer on the metal surfaces and an adhesion promoter on the urethane parts.
If your existing paint is solid, and not flaking, then scuffing it is fine. Scuffed oem paint is actually an an excellent base for new paint over top.
As VroomVroom mentioned, you need to find an auto paint supply store. Every large city/ town has one.
That's where I get mine.
I don't know if your paint is 2 or 3 stage, but if it's 3 stage then you'll need the base tone, the pearl coat, then the clear.
I've painted many cars, so if you need more help just ask.
Lastly, make sure your prep is through, bordering on overkill. Degrease, degrease, degrease. Painting is much easier when you don't have silicone gremlins to deal with. There WILL be some dirt (unavoidable unless you have a pro paint booth, and even then...) to deal with, but you can sand / buff it out later. Expect to spend 3x on prep vs painting it. If there's been body work or paint work done on the car previous, please use a tinted acrylic sealer on those areas, trust me on that one.
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