noob? about clay bar and wax
01-03-08, 12:05 PM
#1
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noob? about clay bar and wax
my car is 1992 LS400 that has seen better days. My dad bought it brand new in 1992 and since then don't think I've ever seen him clay bar the car. I've done searches on clay bar and still have a couple questions. Which brand should I look for when buying clay bar and what are the steps? ie Wash, Clay bar, then Wax? thanks.
01-03-08, 01:28 PM
#2
The car will look so good after you finish with it your dad will want it back.
I have had success with any brand of clay, Mothers, Clay Magic and Meguiar's.
When you get the clay kit, cut the clay bar into thirds and place the two unused pieces in a Baggie or ZipLoc bag. When you drop a piece of clay toss it and grab one of the unused pieces. Don't try to reuse a piece that has hit the ground. Use plenty of the supplied lube and clay a 2' x 2' section at a time. Then feel the surface with your fingers to see that you have made the paint as smooth as glass. I'd suggest starting with the vertical surfaces of your car first then move on to the horizontal surfaces. The vertical surfaces will not have as much bonded contamination as the horizontal surfaces so the clay will not get as grungy if you start on the vertical surfaces. Be sure to fold and re-flatten the clay often as it begins to show grime and dirt. When you have finished claying the paint, move on and do the windows. Finally use the same clay to do your wheels.
When claying the thing to remember is that the clay actually hydroplanes over the surface of the paint riding on the lube. When a piece of bonded grit is hit it is captured by the clay and sheared off. It takes very little pressure to clay. If you apply too much pressure the clay will begin to stick to the paint and could cause marring. A light touch is all that is needed.
Remember to clay your paint when it is cool to the touch and out of the sun. Heat can cause the clay to become too soft and this reduces it's effectiveness as well as increasing the chance for it to stick to and mar the paint.
Do a youtube search for clay bar and you will find a few short flicks showing the process. Here is one from Meguiar's.
The steps you propose will do fine. Wash first with a good quality car wash. Clay and then wax. If you want to really pick up the paint you might add a step where you polish the paint right after the clay and before you wax.
I'f you want to use over the counter products I'd suggest the following;
•Meguiar's NXT Car wash or Gold Class Car wash and pay attention to the proper dilution. It's probably a good time to think about snagging a new sheepskin wash mitt and some new microfiber towels for drying too. If you can, wash with the two bucket method which should reduce the chances for swirl marks.
•Meguiar's smooth Surface Clay kit is my favorite but I have not used a bad clay kit from any brand.
•If the paint has never seen a paint cleaner or polish you might use the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner #1 and Polish #2 before waxing.
•For wax I'd suggest looking at Meguiar's NXT 2.0. (Check out your local WALMART for a special kit they are selling that contains this wax and several other very useful products.) Here is what is in the kit which sell for $24.88.
If all these steps seem like too much work, look for a cleaner/wax product and just wash, clay and wax. Meguiar's also makes a decent cleaner/wax, as does Zymol and Mothers.
I have had success with any brand of clay, Mothers, Clay Magic and Meguiar's.
When you get the clay kit, cut the clay bar into thirds and place the two unused pieces in a Baggie or ZipLoc bag. When you drop a piece of clay toss it and grab one of the unused pieces. Don't try to reuse a piece that has hit the ground. Use plenty of the supplied lube and clay a 2' x 2' section at a time. Then feel the surface with your fingers to see that you have made the paint as smooth as glass. I'd suggest starting with the vertical surfaces of your car first then move on to the horizontal surfaces. The vertical surfaces will not have as much bonded contamination as the horizontal surfaces so the clay will not get as grungy if you start on the vertical surfaces. Be sure to fold and re-flatten the clay often as it begins to show grime and dirt. When you have finished claying the paint, move on and do the windows. Finally use the same clay to do your wheels.
When claying the thing to remember is that the clay actually hydroplanes over the surface of the paint riding on the lube. When a piece of bonded grit is hit it is captured by the clay and sheared off. It takes very little pressure to clay. If you apply too much pressure the clay will begin to stick to the paint and could cause marring. A light touch is all that is needed.
Remember to clay your paint when it is cool to the touch and out of the sun. Heat can cause the clay to become too soft and this reduces it's effectiveness as well as increasing the chance for it to stick to and mar the paint.
Do a youtube search for clay bar and you will find a few short flicks showing the process. Here is one from Meguiar's.
The steps you propose will do fine. Wash first with a good quality car wash. Clay and then wax. If you want to really pick up the paint you might add a step where you polish the paint right after the clay and before you wax.
I'f you want to use over the counter products I'd suggest the following;
•Meguiar's NXT Car wash or Gold Class Car wash and pay attention to the proper dilution. It's probably a good time to think about snagging a new sheepskin wash mitt and some new microfiber towels for drying too. If you can, wash with the two bucket method which should reduce the chances for swirl marks.
•Meguiar's smooth Surface Clay kit is my favorite but I have not used a bad clay kit from any brand.
•If the paint has never seen a paint cleaner or polish you might use the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner #1 and Polish #2 before waxing.
•For wax I'd suggest looking at Meguiar's NXT 2.0. (Check out your local WALMART for a special kit they are selling that contains this wax and several other very useful products.) Here is what is in the kit which sell for $24.88.
If all these steps seem like too much work, look for a cleaner/wax product and just wash, clay and wax. Meguiar's also makes a decent cleaner/wax, as does Zymol and Mothers.
Last edited by jfelbab; 01-03-08 at 01:46 PM.
01-03-08, 01:33 PM
#3
Basically what jfelbab said. I've personally used Clay Magic and Meguiars and couldn't tell the difference.
I believe the proper steps are wash, clay, wash/dry, polish, then wax. Someone correct me on this if I'm off.
BTW, your signature needs to be resized to forum limits.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/faq...faq_signatures
I believe the proper steps are wash, clay, wash/dry, polish, then wax. Someone correct me on this if I'm off.
BTW, your signature needs to be resized to forum limits.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/faq...faq_signatures
1) No images physically larger than 450 (wide) X 100 (tall) in total combined size
01-03-08, 01:45 PM
#5
It's very simple....here are the steps (used to do this professionally to earn xtra cash in college)
1. wash the car down with a little DAWN dish soap and water. yes dawn, dont worry you're going to clay & wax.
2. leave the car wet.
3. kneed 1/2 the clay bar flat to fit the palm of your hand.
4. find a squirt bottle
5. if you have CAR wash soap (only the kind MADE specifically for a car) put about 4 drops into the squirt bottle & mix with water...this is your lube for the clay.
6. if you dont have car wash soap then buy a cheap QD (quick detail) spray from your local auto parts store and use it as your lube.
7. If #5 & 6 are not feasible then just keep the hose on so water just trickles out and use the water to lube. have the water running over the part you are clay barring.
8. Using the clay bar. You've kneeded the 1/2 the bar to the size of the palm of your hand, you have the water running, now just work a 2' x 2' area with the clay and use it as if you were erasing a chalkboard, just go back and forth for a bit.
9. The top parts of the car may require a little more pressure with the clay than the sides but you'll be able to feel the difference with your naked hand.
10. IMPORTANT!!!! If you drop the clay bar throw it away period, it's not worth scratching up the paint. This is why I say to only use 1/2 the clay bar.
11. while claying keep folding the flattened clay bar over itself maybe once after every body panel.
12. all done claying. now wash the car again using only soap made for washing a car. NO DAWN this time.
13. Now you're ready to wax or polish then wax. a polish before a wax will give the car a wet look but it really depends on the car's color. Lighter colors won't look as "wet" as darker colors. I try a panel and if the result doesnt justify the additional time & effort I don't do it (the extra step, polish in this case).
14. You'll see stuff like polishes, glazes, sealants etc but unless you have a polishing machine forget 'em by hand it's lots of work and doesn't produce the same results you would get if you had used a machine - most of these products are/were originally intended for machine use not hand application.
as for the type/brand of clay, it depends on what you can get a hold of and the condition of your paint. very rough neglected paint find a more aggressive clay bar. I have found that unless you're shopping online at a detailers type web site you won't have many options in clay (certainly not at your local pep boys kragen or auto zone). your next option besides online and local auto parts is a place that specializes in supplying body/auto paint shops with their stuff they may have 1-3 different clays to choose from. The brand...any brand will do, meguires is probably the easiest to find.
good luck
1. wash the car down with a little DAWN dish soap and water. yes dawn, dont worry you're going to clay & wax.
2. leave the car wet.
3. kneed 1/2 the clay bar flat to fit the palm of your hand.
4. find a squirt bottle
5. if you have CAR wash soap (only the kind MADE specifically for a car) put about 4 drops into the squirt bottle & mix with water...this is your lube for the clay.
6. if you dont have car wash soap then buy a cheap QD (quick detail) spray from your local auto parts store and use it as your lube.
7. If #5 & 6 are not feasible then just keep the hose on so water just trickles out and use the water to lube. have the water running over the part you are clay barring.
8. Using the clay bar. You've kneeded the 1/2 the bar to the size of the palm of your hand, you have the water running, now just work a 2' x 2' area with the clay and use it as if you were erasing a chalkboard, just go back and forth for a bit.
9. The top parts of the car may require a little more pressure with the clay than the sides but you'll be able to feel the difference with your naked hand.
10. IMPORTANT!!!! If you drop the clay bar throw it away period, it's not worth scratching up the paint. This is why I say to only use 1/2 the clay bar.
11. while claying keep folding the flattened clay bar over itself maybe once after every body panel.
12. all done claying. now wash the car again using only soap made for washing a car. NO DAWN this time.
13. Now you're ready to wax or polish then wax. a polish before a wax will give the car a wet look but it really depends on the car's color. Lighter colors won't look as "wet" as darker colors. I try a panel and if the result doesnt justify the additional time & effort I don't do it (the extra step, polish in this case).
14. You'll see stuff like polishes, glazes, sealants etc but unless you have a polishing machine forget 'em by hand it's lots of work and doesn't produce the same results you would get if you had used a machine - most of these products are/were originally intended for machine use not hand application.
as for the type/brand of clay, it depends on what you can get a hold of and the condition of your paint. very rough neglected paint find a more aggressive clay bar. I have found that unless you're shopping online at a detailers type web site you won't have many options in clay (certainly not at your local pep boys kragen or auto zone). your next option besides online and local auto parts is a place that specializes in supplying body/auto paint shops with their stuff they may have 1-3 different clays to choose from. The brand...any brand will do, meguires is probably the easiest to find.
good luck
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01-04-08, 01:18 AM
#8
I like the Clay Magic or Chemical Guys clay (both the same) and use Optimum No-Rinse as a lube, wash, and quick detailer. Zaino and Pinnacle clays are not as aggressive as the CM or CG and fall apart pretty easily. Swissvax Paint Rubber is similar to the poly-clays, but do alot more cleaning and is pretty easy to use.
Wax should be your LSP (Last Step Product). Glazes are used to fill in and add depth/wetness before protecting it with a wax or sealant. Glazes offer no protection or correction ability and will wash off after 1-2 washes.
Wax should be your LSP (Last Step Product). Glazes are used to fill in and add depth/wetness before protecting it with a wax or sealant. Glazes offer no protection or correction ability and will wash off after 1-2 washes.
01-04-08, 01:22 AM
#9
Nope just magic. What the clay is doing in essence it's sanding down the contaminants that have bonded (stuck) to the paint. Sometimes, after you've washed your car, you run your hands along the paint and you feel it kind of sandy - those are bonded contaminants. Once that is gone you will see how easy it is to wipe on then off the wax.
I second what TOD said, polishes and glazes before wax - wax = last product
I second what TOD said, polishes and glazes before wax - wax = last product
01-04-08, 05:44 AM
#10
Clay is soft and picks up the contaminant and embeds it into the clay, When you look at the clay and it starts to look dirty you fold it and re-knead it back into a pad exposing fresh clay. Repeat this process often to keep clean clay touching your paint and you will have no problems with scratching.
As to glazes, they typically go on before you apply a wax or sealant but I use a glaze just before I show my MR2. In this case I apply it over the wax to give a wet paint look to the car. This will last long enough for the show and judging but washes off with out harming the wax under it. Glazes are very good at hiding slight marring on your paint. Glazes will evaporate so that's why you normally apply a wax or sealant over them to stop the evaporation. I typically use MEguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.
Here is the fender of a 17 year old MR2 that has had a glaze applied.
Glazes also serve another purpose. As your paint ages it looses many of the oils it originally had. A glaze will replenish some of those lost oils if you use it regularly. This will slow the effect of oxidation that occurs in all paints eventually.
As to glazes, they typically go on before you apply a wax or sealant but I use a glaze just before I show my MR2. In this case I apply it over the wax to give a wet paint look to the car. This will last long enough for the show and judging but washes off with out harming the wax under it. Glazes are very good at hiding slight marring on your paint. Glazes will evaporate so that's why you normally apply a wax or sealant over them to stop the evaporation. I typically use MEguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.
Here is the fender of a 17 year old MR2 that has had a glaze applied.
Glazes also serve another purpose. As your paint ages it looses many of the oils it originally had. A glaze will replenish some of those lost oils if you use it regularly. This will slow the effect of oxidation that occurs in all paints eventually.
01-04-08, 08:51 AM
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thanks for all the information. Just finished wash, clay bar, and wax. I used Mothers California Gold Clay Bar kit.
Last edited by LRP_LS400; 01-04-08 at 12:37 PM.
01-04-08, 03:35 PM
#12
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Hey Tod, D&D Auto Detailing here!
You do not need to use Dawn prior to claying a car. This is some old school technique that started and for some reason people continue with it.
Some clay bars will marr the surface. It all depends on the paint, clay bar, and your method.
You do not need to use Dawn prior to claying a car. This is some old school technique that started and for some reason people continue with it.
Some clay bars will marr the surface. It all depends on the paint, clay bar, and your method.
01-04-08, 04:04 PM
#13
Hey Dan! Welcome to the forums. Didn't know you had a Lexus. Let's see some pics!
I also don't recommend Dawn for washing cars. Sal Zaino recommends it to clean before using his stuff, but even he says to use it only once. Dawn's made for washing dishes, not cars.
I also don't recommend Dawn for washing cars. Sal Zaino recommends it to clean before using his stuff, but even he says to use it only once. Dawn's made for washing dishes, not cars.
01-04-08, 05:48 PM
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No Lexus here. My girl friend owns one and I need to do some work on it, so I was hoping the guys here would be able to help me. Figured Id help in the detailing section here while Im at it.
01-05-08, 03:35 AM
#15
Earlier in the week I washed my car and waxed it again. I wax using NXT and of course it the car looks great afterwards. Still I'm not happy with the look and feel of the front bumper and hood. It's suppose to get warm for the late weekend so I'll pickup the clay kit from Meguiar's and give it a try.