Polishing Question
01-10-08, 12:36 PM
#1
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Polishing Question
How long do you have to wait after a detail or polish, to get another detail or polish?? I heard that you can damage your clear coat if too often..true??
01-10-08, 01:35 PM
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Yes, its true. Polishing in general removes clear coat. Now how much depends on what machine your using (or if you're doing it by hand), what pad, and what type of polish. If you keep the paint up correctly, you should only need to polish a few times a year. And thatll most likely be with a very light polish.
So what makes you ask this question?
So what makes you ask this question?
01-10-08, 01:35 PM
#3
I usually wait until my paint feels rough, and it has a lot of dirt and dust. I usually swipe my car down with a Microfiber towel to get the dust out.
You can damage your clear coat if you do it too often only if you apply too much force into the application.
You can damage your clear coat if you do it too often only if you apply too much force into the application.
01-10-08, 10:31 PM
#5
I dont think you should polish that much..It makes no sense to have to do it more than 3 times a year..Once or twice a year should suffice for light colored cars, unless your totally **** about swirls and light marring from regular washes..If you wash properly (two bucket method or use grit guard), reseal every couple of months then your paint should be in pristine condition...Also if you use a good quick detailer after a wash, it keeps the paint looking glossy and enchances sealant/wax durability...Your car should look great for months at a time..
01-11-08, 01:13 AM
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well, i got a 2 step polish 1 month and half ago. And swirls reappear now. Do you think it is worth to buy the PC or ask some1 to do it? Since you would only use the PC for about 3-4 times a year.
01-11-08, 05:39 AM
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What kind of polish was used? It might just be that you have a bad washing technique (most likely). When it comes to other people detailing your car, I think the hardest thing is finding the right person. There are so many people out there that dont have a clue how to do this properly. There are also people that take short cuts and arent honest. You've gotta find someone good who you can trust. Where in CA are you?
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01-12-08, 01:49 AM
#8
I always recommend people take their cars to a pro detailer, have it properly detailed, then maintain it themselves. Problem is, as Dan said, finding that detailer that knows what he's doing. Check out autopia.org and find someone that is reputable with pics to show and references to call.
01-13-08, 02:36 AM
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Ok this may sound stupid but..do you need to have the area you want to polish extremely clean (like just after a car wash)?? What if you go to a car wash 5-10 mins away and go home to do the polish. Will it already be too dirty??? Also...if i just want to remove the swirls, I would just buy a swirl removal polisher right? As I already have the meg's swirl remover 2.0. Do i need to clay or do anything before that? Or straight to the PC with the meg's swirl remover?? Thanks guys for helping a noob here!!
01-13-08, 07:14 AM
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Yes, you should clay before polishing. When you get home, you should wipe the surface down with a 50:50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water to clean the surface. Do that as you go around the car polishing it.
01-13-08, 08:52 AM
#13
What I Do (updated)
I've posted this before but I updated it recently and you might find it useful.
I can tell you what I do. I've developed my "best practices" over 47 years of detailing and they are constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should to find what works for you and stick with it. If you are **** about how your car looks then this process should work for you as well as it does for me. Most important to remember, it is the process that is key and the products are secondary to the process.
Typically, every 3-4 months I do a complete detail on my personal cars. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish, (optional Glaze) and Wax. Once I have done a complete detail I maintain by washing every week and applying a spray booster product after every wash. This maintains the freshly detailed look and well as restoring the slickness to the paint. This has the added benefit of making the paint resist dirt and grime hence it is easier to keep clean.
Washing - An occasional run through a touchless Laser Automatic Wash won't damage the finish during periods of inclement weather but I avoid any cloth automatic wash or washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good car wash like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wash.
I never use a dishwashing detergent on my vehicles as it is not as good as a car wash. It is designed to remove grease from dishes, not dirt from paint.
I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much will shorten the life of your wax or sealant.
I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop hard water spots which can be difficult to remove.
I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt that I wash my wheels and rocker panels with to wash my paint.
I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can then I gently dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels.
I now inspect the paint to see what steps are needed to restore the paint.
Clay - Even new cars can benefit from clay. I lightly draw my fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass I clay. I prefer Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit but others (Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.) also make good kits. I like the Meg's kit because it comes with a premium Microfiber towel as well as a plastic case to store the unused clay.
I cut the clay bar into two or three pieces and put the unused pieces in the plastic box. If I drop a piece of clay when using it I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants are gone. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.
I clay my paint then move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels.
Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint pores. I like Meguiar's #80 (Speed Glaze) for this but the Megs Deep Crystal #1 Cleaner and #2 Polish are also fine if you prefer OTC products.
On a new car these cleaning and polishing steps might not be needed.
If you can afford a buffer look for a good dual action orbital type. Don't expect much from the cheap $30 stuff on the market. They might apply a wax ok but they don't have the power needed to polish paint effectively. A rotary buffer can damage your paint in an instant if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is virtually impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and foam pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint very frequently with no issue. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 11 years old and going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts the time by a factor of 10 over polishing by hand.
Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking it's best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts very little to the overall look. Most of the appearance comes from the previous stages in your preparation.
It is commonly felt that if you live in a very hot area of the country, a polymer sealant may be a better choice than a carnauba wax. Tests show that pure carnauba wax evaporates at 160° F, a temperature your paint surface can reach. Most carnauba waxes are not pure carnauba but polymer sealants do have a much higher resistance to heat.
For sealants, I like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 or Meguiar's #21 2.0 (Synthetic Sealant). Their wetlook shine is as good or better than any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. Plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates to keep the protection intact.
A polymer sealant is a great product for your wheels too. It resists brake dust and your wheels will stay clean longer and clean up easier. I like Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer for this purpose as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF towel and apply to the wheel and buff. Don't spray directly on your brake rotors.
I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch your paint if not removed promptly.
Leather - I use a cleaner/conditioner at least monthly during the summer months to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out. Lexus sells great products for cleaning and conditioning the leather.
Interior - For interior detailing I prefer Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that doesn't add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it is reflecting glare. This product also has UV protection.
Tires - It is important to clean your tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will remove most of the wax or sealant on your wheel. Instead I use either a stiff brush and car wash soap or my pressure washer. The latter makes short work of tire grunge. I also use the pressure washer for the wheel wells. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of my favorite dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I remove excess in the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto my paint.
Maintenance - Finally, I maintain the exterior paint with a spray booster product. There are several products here that work well. I use Ultimate Quik Detailer (UQD) after every wash. This stuff applies in about 10 - 15 minutes and leaves the paint slick with that freshly detailed look. The added slickness afforded by this approach greatly aids in preventing bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint and makes the car almost self cleaning.
As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Everything that touches the paint can cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.
I can tell you what I do. I've developed my "best practices" over 47 years of detailing and they are constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should to find what works for you and stick with it. If you are **** about how your car looks then this process should work for you as well as it does for me. Most important to remember, it is the process that is key and the products are secondary to the process.
Typically, every 3-4 months I do a complete detail on my personal cars. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish, (optional Glaze) and Wax. Once I have done a complete detail I maintain by washing every week and applying a spray booster product after every wash. This maintains the freshly detailed look and well as restoring the slickness to the paint. This has the added benefit of making the paint resist dirt and grime hence it is easier to keep clean.
Washing - An occasional run through a touchless Laser Automatic Wash won't damage the finish during periods of inclement weather but I avoid any cloth automatic wash or washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good car wash like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wash.
I never use a dishwashing detergent on my vehicles as it is not as good as a car wash. It is designed to remove grease from dishes, not dirt from paint.
I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much will shorten the life of your wax or sealant.
I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop hard water spots which can be difficult to remove.
I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt that I wash my wheels and rocker panels with to wash my paint.
I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can then I gently dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels.
I now inspect the paint to see what steps are needed to restore the paint.
Clay - Even new cars can benefit from clay. I lightly draw my fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass I clay. I prefer Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit but others (Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.) also make good kits. I like the Meg's kit because it comes with a premium Microfiber towel as well as a plastic case to store the unused clay.
I cut the clay bar into two or three pieces and put the unused pieces in the plastic box. If I drop a piece of clay when using it I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants are gone. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.
I clay my paint then move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels.
Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint pores. I like Meguiar's #80 (Speed Glaze) for this but the Megs Deep Crystal #1 Cleaner and #2 Polish are also fine if you prefer OTC products.
On a new car these cleaning and polishing steps might not be needed.
If you can afford a buffer look for a good dual action orbital type. Don't expect much from the cheap $30 stuff on the market. They might apply a wax ok but they don't have the power needed to polish paint effectively. A rotary buffer can damage your paint in an instant if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is virtually impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and foam pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint very frequently with no issue. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 11 years old and going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts the time by a factor of 10 over polishing by hand.
Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking it's best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts very little to the overall look. Most of the appearance comes from the previous stages in your preparation.
It is commonly felt that if you live in a very hot area of the country, a polymer sealant may be a better choice than a carnauba wax. Tests show that pure carnauba wax evaporates at 160° F, a temperature your paint surface can reach. Most carnauba waxes are not pure carnauba but polymer sealants do have a much higher resistance to heat.
For sealants, I like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 or Meguiar's #21 2.0 (Synthetic Sealant). Their wetlook shine is as good or better than any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. Plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates to keep the protection intact.
A polymer sealant is a great product for your wheels too. It resists brake dust and your wheels will stay clean longer and clean up easier. I like Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer for this purpose as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF towel and apply to the wheel and buff. Don't spray directly on your brake rotors.
I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch your paint if not removed promptly.
Leather - I use a cleaner/conditioner at least monthly during the summer months to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out. Lexus sells great products for cleaning and conditioning the leather.
Interior - For interior detailing I prefer Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that doesn't add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it is reflecting glare. This product also has UV protection.
Tires - It is important to clean your tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will remove most of the wax or sealant on your wheel. Instead I use either a stiff brush and car wash soap or my pressure washer. The latter makes short work of tire grunge. I also use the pressure washer for the wheel wells. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of my favorite dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I remove excess in the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto my paint.
Maintenance - Finally, I maintain the exterior paint with a spray booster product. There are several products here that work well. I use Ultimate Quik Detailer (UQD) after every wash. This stuff applies in about 10 - 15 minutes and leaves the paint slick with that freshly detailed look. The added slickness afforded by this approach greatly aids in preventing bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint and makes the car almost self cleaning.
As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Everything that touches the paint can cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.
Last edited by jfelbab; 01-13-08 at 11:54 AM.
01-13-08, 01:03 PM
#14
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wowww..great info...whats OTC products?
Detailman: whats the alcohol for?
okay. So i guess i will be buying the PC and the rest of the product.
So here is the list, First from what I use to the last thing I use:
(correct me if i am wrong with the order or the product)
Meguiars NXT Gen Car Wash - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg12664.html
Meguiars Pro Detailing Clay - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/megovclay.html
Meguiars Swirl Remover #9 - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/meg9swirrem.html
Meguairs #3 Mirror Glaze - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg03.html
Last step
Meguairs NXT Tech Wax - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg12718.html
Also, for swirl remover do you orange or white pad? The mirror glaze to be use with black/gray pad??? and the wax is the blue pad right??
(not too sure)
Thanks for the help guys!
Detailman: whats the alcohol for?
okay. So i guess i will be buying the PC and the rest of the product.
So here is the list, First from what I use to the last thing I use:
(correct me if i am wrong with the order or the product)
Meguiars NXT Gen Car Wash - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg12664.html
Meguiars Pro Detailing Clay - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/megovclay.html
Meguiars Swirl Remover #9 - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/meg9swirrem.html
Meguairs #3 Mirror Glaze - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg03.html
Last step
Meguairs NXT Tech Wax - http://www.superiorcarcare.net/mg12718.html
Also, for swirl remover do you orange or white pad? The mirror glaze to be use with black/gray pad??? and the wax is the blue pad right??
(not too sure)
Thanks for the help guys!
Last edited by 350nub; 01-13-08 at 01:13 PM.
