UDel

I already ordered the Mezerna Instensive Polish and saw Mezerna offers two finishing polishes Mezerna MicroPolish PO87MC and Final Polish PO85U/Final Polish II. Does anyone know what the major difference is between the 2 and which one may be better to apply after IP to eliminate hazing or if one is better as a general maintenance polish that you use 1 or 2 times a year. I will be using a PC to apply the products. I am using it on a black car if that matters.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

PO87MC Micropolish is the same thing as Final Polish II

The PO85U was the original Final polish. The Micropolish is less aggressive than the Final Polish (PO85U).

I find that the PO85U is very non-aggressive already. I'm able to correct hazing with it. Micropolish seems a bit redundant to me considering I can finish down with PO85U. Heck, I can even finish down with the intensive polish. My paint doesn't really look any different when I apply final polish to the car.

If it matters, I also have black onyx, except mine is single-stage.

UDel

So after you use Menzerna Intensive Polish you really don't need a final polish like PO85U or PO87MC or you notice no difference after you use it after a more abrasive polish. I have a 2nd Gen GS430 so I am pretty sure mines a single stage black too. What pad do you use when correcting and general use with IP.

tod071

I'd go for the PO85 because it has more cut and finishes the same as FPII. Depending on which pad you're using your IP with, you may or may not need to finish up with a finishing polish. I too can use IP and a white pad on rotary and finish with a pretty nice gloss. If you're using an orange pad with IP, you'll probably want to finish up with a white or even black/blue pad with PO85.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Yup, the only time I use the Final polish is if I'm using the orange pad with the rotary. The orange pad itself will cause slight marring and to correct it, I use the white pad with Final polish. But if I use the white pad with the intensive polish, there's no marring.

I haven't had any marring problem by using IP with orange pad on a PC though.

BTW, the 01+ GS had clear coat. My GS is single stage (98-00 black GS)

UDel

That is interesting, maybe I will hold off on that bottle of Final Polish/Micropolish if I don't really need it which will save me about $30. I did not know the 01 black GS had a clear coat, I thought it was single stage. If I get marring with the orange pad and IP I guess I can just use a white pad with IP afterward to help clear it up. Thanks for the info.

UDel

Well I tried using the PC with Menzerna IP and an orange pad and can't say I was impressed with the results. I really could not tell the difference between where I polished and where I did not polish. After a few tries I think I got a pretty good handle for using the PC and how much polish to put on but it really did not look any better then before and after wiping off excess wax which is pretty bad for a car that I don't think was ever polished for 7 years. I could not tell the difference between polished and unpolished area, which was dissapointing after seeing all these nice before and after pics on here and different sites.

I was able to pretty much take away the 2000grit wet sanding marks after I tried wet sanding some paint chip spots and some larger scrapes and one of the areas that had a fairly nasty scratch/rub mark from a peice of particle board hitting it. I was able to make some scrapes pretty much invisible from wet sanding and then polishing. I don't understand why the oxidation, many water spots, and most fine scratches, and swirls are still there after using a fairly agressive pad and IP. Under florescent lighting the hood just does not look good. I think is I need to go with a more aggressive pad, I think I will try a yellow cutting pad and see what happens. I was hoping I would not need a wool compounding pad but I might for the hood, the hood and roof are the worst parts of the car with the oxidation, water spots, scratches. If anyone has any advice or previous experiences I would appreciate it. I will try to post up pics when I find the cable for the camera. Thanks.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I find that menzerna product seems to work better with a rotary than a PC

How much pressure are you applying to the PC and at what speed?

Generally, orange pad is enough for light to moderate swirls. Yellow pad should be reserved for heavy oxidation, deeper scratches, etc.

Here is the last car I detailed (black onyx). The swirls and scratches were pretty severe and it took multiple orange pads, but I never had to use the yellows. There was no gloss to the paint becaue of the scratches. A picture below it shows me applying the final polish with the white pad. The car did not look even close to that before I detailed it I dont have an after picture up close though. It was getting too dark




But anyways, my point is that the menzerna and orange pad can be an awesome combo.

UDel

I don't have a rotary nor do I have any experience with one so I am pretty much only going to be using the PC. I was not pressing down hard with the PC because I read where it can bog it down, I really just let the weight of the PC be the pressure I used the most as it is fairly heavy and I did the hood so I was not pressing it to the car. I put a little pressure on it at times but did not really notice it working any better and instead of putting pressure I just went over the same spot several times without really any pressure just letting the weight be the pressure, tommorow I will try pressing on it if that is more effective, it was my first time doing it so I wanted to be careful not to possibly damage the paint.

That GS looks beautiful that you detailed, huge difference between before and after which kind of dissapointed me as there was no real difference for me aside from maybe a few less water spots and maybe a few less really light swirls.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

The weight of the PC is not enough. I think that's your problem. Back when I was using a PC, I would have to press down hard enough that the pad would eventually be 1/2 as thick as the original thickness. I applied maybe 10-15lbs of pressure. Definitely do not press down as hard on the hood, but for the fender, door panels, etc, apply more pressure. The motor does bog down, but at least you're creating more heat between the paint and the pad. Just bring up the speed if you need to. Heat is what you need to get rid of the defect.

Try it on a fender and I'm sure you'll see better results. Move about 1" per second. I know your hand will hurt after awhile, but that's the price you pay for a random orbit. It might be wise to invest in some gloves with anti-vibration characteristics.

UncleRay

iTrader: (2)

Can I just use an automatic drill that has a buffer pad attached to it? lol

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Hella fun though if its your first time

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

With my UDM the key was applying pressure while using menzerna. By the time I'm done using an orange pad it is warm and soft as a finishing pad. I need at least 4 pads to work on a car because they would become so soft and have no cut.

Dusting was one thing that really annoyed me about IP, but after adding in a little FPII those problems went away, and would allow me to finish down the product. My hands would go numb before I was done with a section.

UDel

When your pads were so soft with no cut were they ruined after applying pressure or just needed to be washed and allow to dry, I don't want to have to keep replacing pads everytime I polish my car.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

After the pads were cleaned and allowed time to dry they were back to normal.