Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys..

I washed and waxed my car (paste wax) last Saturday. It looks good, but it could look better. Also it has been nasty today, raining ALL day -- So I got out 3 times for about 50 miles (few hours) in the rain.

Each time I got a towel and wiped all the water off the car and re-did the tires the last time I brought it in for the day.

Still shiney of course.. but given this, (that I've wiped it down over and over.. with water and towels).

Do you think I can just wipe it tommorow with a dry towel to get any dust from over night off of it, and put a polish on it?

The wax has bound to still be fresh, and I want to make it shine a bit more than the wax alone did.

It would be great if , since the car is clean, I could forgo the washing and waxing again, and start with a wipe down then polish on it.

Would that be ok given the conditions, or am I to wash, re-wax, and then polish?

While we are on the subject if you were doing what I am going to do.. just wipe and polish on a clean car -- What polish would you use that you can purchase OTC (locally) say from Autozone/pepboys/walmart etc?

It can be liquid or paste -- Just want your favorites here.

I was acutally looking at that Nufinish, as its on clearance for like 2 bucks.. but it is probably utter crap

Thanks

radicalrev

iTrader: (2)

when you wipe it tomorrow with a clean dry MF towel..make sure to use some Quik Detailer...I suggest Meg's Quik Detailer...really makes the finish glossy and the "just wax" look...but waxing it again also works if you really want to do the work again...for polish that you can purchase OTC, i would probably use Color X or Deep Crystal System Polish...for Color X it is just a whole one step product (takes out swirls, minor scratches and give protection like a wax)...but you can top it off with a wax of your choice too if you like..

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I have that whole polish before wax thing going here again.. hrmm. Just waxing the car isn't that big of a job if that is all your doing. A wax, and then maybe some small details on an already clean interior. Like 3 minutes of vacuuming, touching a spot here and there.. No big deal.

Can do all that in an hour or so I'm sure.

But ideally I'd think you'd want to scrub all the wax off before polishing,.. though it doesn't have a 'thick' wax finish on it. The wax I used was cheap, and from all the wipe downs and rain.. while still smooth, it isn't but half as smooth as it was Sunday. So this wax isn't very long lasting, not by a long shot.

I guess what I'm getting at, is I think a polish on top of what ever is on there now will still bond where it needs too. Though I guess just sticking with some sort of wax is my best bet for 'looks' at the moment. (I'm showing two of my good friends my car this weekend for the first time) -- And want it to look great, but there is absolutely no need to re-detail the thing. It is 'clean' hehe.. Just needs some 'topping off' if you will.

I have the quick detailer.. but I don't wanna just squirt it down with that.. I am gonna wipe it down and wax it again, since polish isn't gonna give it a shine.. wax does that from all that I hear. -- Maybe I will grab some of that Nu-finish and just see what it does. It is a wax of some sort anyhow,.. won't hurt anything.

Then whenever I get around to it, I'll wash/claybar the car and then polish it from a clean slate.. then put good wax on it.

jfelbab

I'd not wipe a car down after driving in the rain. Dirt and grit is very likely to be splashed onto the paint from other cars and from the tires. Just wiping it dry may rub this dirt into the paint and cause swirls. I'd have done a quick wash and dried it properly. Fortunately you have a silver car and that color won't readily show swirls and scratches.

If it's just light dust and fingerprints I'd use a QD to remove.

Repeated wiping with towels will remove some wax and would shorten it's life. A wax or sealant coating is an extremely thin protective layer and it is quite soft when compared to paint. It doesn't take much to compromise a coating of wax or sealant. I'd suggest re-waxing since it is not much more effort than using a QD and you will have added another, or restored the current, protective coating in the process. I'd also suggest inspecting your paint finish under direct sunlight or a street light to see how badly it may be swirled.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I thought about that.. but I went ahead with it -- Not much dirt came off, I used terry cloths on some parts to see how 'dirty' it actually was and I wasn't really picking anything up.

For the initial 'wipe down' I would gently go over the car with a micro towel and the towel would get very saturated with water.

The I would go over it again, leaving a slight layer of the 'rain' water on the car. But it was dried/smeared enough to not spot up if that makes sense.

I didn't buff it completely bone dry.

I did use Quick detailer on some spots I noticed afterwords.

I didn't wash it, cause I couldn't. I was wiping it down in the garage with it raining heavy outside. The rain has now stopped (an hour ago or so) for the weekend. (Supposed to start again Mon) -- So I have a few days to get her polished again.

I almost want to clay it, but I but so much time into her last weekend (10 hours or so) -- That I'd hate to spend some rediuclous amount of time on exterior cleaning, if she is already clean.

We'll see what my 'mood' puts me to. I might just make sure any residual dirt is off, and use a sealant and/or wax for now. Keep her looking sharp.


If it's just light dust and fingerprints I'd use a QD to remove.

Yup. I figured as much, which is why I asked. Though I've heard numerous times that X wax can go through Y car washes before needing a re-wax. And most people dont' re-wax every car wash. So it has to be able to handle some rubbing. How much is the question. I think with a deeper wax/sealant it would be harder to 'rub off' per se. So maybe with this second coat of whatever it will mix with the first for a thicker coat.

As for effort,.. I don't have a buffer, so applying the wax isn't so bad (I use paste normally.. might try a liquid this time) -- It is the buffing off of the wax that takes the effort. I suppose I should buy ALOT of terry cloths this round so I can switch out every few minutes so the effort is minimalized. Last wax I used about 5 , 1x1ft terry cloths. Which at first made it somewhat easy to buff off.. but as the wax caked on the cloth it became difficult (more difficult anyway). Though I didn't have enough to swap out as often as I would have liked. I also had to save one perfectly clean one for a final wipe down of residue.

Thanks for those tips -- and you are right there are good and bad points about the Silver color.

A) I'll never get that shine that Black or even cherry red car shows.

B) This car doesn't show dirt as much as those Black cars do..

C) Swirl marks and other such aren't nearly as visible.

Basically, it doesn't look quite as impressive as some other darker single colors, but it has some pro's to it as well.

jfelbab

Another tip. If you seem to be having difficulty removing your wax try applying it thinner. With wax or sealant, thinner is better.

IMHO, one of the easiest products I've found to apply and remove is NXT 2.0. You might want to try this on your silver as it produces a very wet shiny gloss and covers up a lot of slight sleeks and swirls.

tod071

I don't know if you've already done it, but if you haven't used a claybar, I'd definitely recommend it. Yes, you will basically strip everything you've put into it, but a wax will only enhance whatever is beneath it. If you have a poorly prepped surface, waxing won't do much justice.

Clay it, then if you're looking for OTC products, I agree with jfelbab, NXT products would probably give you the nicest finish. If you want to go with higher-end products, go to pakshak.com and get some Blackfire All-Finish Paint Protection sealant. I love it on silver cars for added depth and wetness.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I have a claybar.. from the Mother's kit. I got it for a paint splatter by wheel well. It did no good whatsoever. But I can use it to get the paint down to a 'fresh' beginning.

Though, today I am not going to spend 14 hours detailing the exterior when I put 10 into it last Saturday. It looks good as is. I am, however, going to grab a wax and put a light coat on and buff it off .. Then sometime in the next week or two I will use dawn dish soap, clay the car, wipe it down really well -- Then apply a polish/sealer -- Let it cure for an hour or whatnot, then put on some wax. See what we come out with then.

I don't think I have to 'clay' like I did when I was trying to get the overspray off.. When claying the car you don't want to put ALOT of pressure on it.. for

A) It isn't necessary

B) You will wear your arm out before you are even close to being through.

C) You want to be somewhat careful with the finish.

I'm thinking I can go over a1-2squarefoot area.. say half the trunk top.. in a few minutes. (spray it with quick detail, clay it.. ) move to other half of trunk top.. Sort of like that.

Do half of the quarter panel fenders at a time... and so forth. Maybe quad the hood up.

I know all you guys have recommendations for products.

But,.. let us say I want to buy locally again.. OTC.. instead of ordering off the internet.

What product would you recommend for right after the car has been washed with dawn.. dried, then clayed and wiped? What is the best sealer I could find locally?

The cure time is between the time I apply it, and then when I buff it off.. correct? The longer the better.. I assume. Even with wax, it might say 5-10minutes at most.. I'll let it sit for 30.. I always let things stay a little longer than the directions imply.

jfelbab

There are a lot of good OTC products to choose. I've been a Meguiar's user for over 50 years so I obviously like their product lines and level of service. IMHO, NXT 2.0 is the best OTC sealant you can buy. I'm not alone in that opinion as you can see here in the Club Lexus poll: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=147900

With a sealant there is a set time and a cure time. These are different things. A product like NXT, for example will be ready for removal after 10-20 minutes depending on the temperature and humidity level. Test this with your finger tip. When it is ready for removal your finger tip will remove the product cleanly and not smear it. The cure time is a different animal. Polymers take time to cure or cross-link. Curing usually takes 6-12 hours. During this time you should not get your paint wet or apply anything on top of the sealant (like a QD) or you will degrade the durability and appearance somewhat.

You can notice this curing quite easily. Apply the sealant to your vehicle, buff it off and look it over. Then look at it the next morning and you will see that it is even shinier and glossier than it was when you finished buffing the day before. This curing is the chemical linking of the polymer molecules and is something you don't want to disrupt as it will keep the shine and durability from reaching it's maximum potential.

tod071

"To each his own". Claying isn't "necessary". You mentioned that you wanted more "shine". You're not going to get any better than how your paint is prepped. If your paint has contaminants, a wax or sealant will only seal it in. Clay bar is the only way to remove all embedded contaminants and is non-abrasive, so it won't do any damage to the car. Its not a magical product, so yes, it takes some effort, but so does washing your car to remove bird poo and mud.

Rather than waxing again, then in 1-2 weeks removing it all with "dawn" (which I don't recommend), I'd either just leave the car until you're ready to clay or just clay and wax. Polishes are your cleaning agents. They are not applied, but rather used to remove imperfections such as scratches/swirls, etc. Sealants and waxes are used to protect. Sealants usually take 12-24hrs to cure (molecularly bond to the paint), so waxing it would normally be the next day.

My recommendation, wash and clay it, then put 2 nice thin layers of wax. It shouldn't take more than a couple hours.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I'm sort of just going to 'test out' this NXT sealant. It says removal is easy, doesn't leave residue like wax and so on. That is why I am saying I'm going to wait on the claybar. I will be claying it soon.. I just don't want to do it this weekend. I do want to try this sealant though, and it shouldn't take an hour or so imo.

The reason I say 'dawn' to remove it all is because it is recommended to use OCCAISONALLY to remove everything you can, before you get ready to really do a job on your paint. This is the reason, and the only reason I would use it before I clay it entirely. I don't use dawn to wash my car, and never have. I have good car wash compound. I've used gasoline with good results very rarely.. anything in moderation is going to be 'ok'. I don't condone the use of dawn as a general car wash agent, but before you are about to apply multiple products and really get all contaminents out of your paint you possibly can,.. I don't see how it is going to hurt. In the sticky for the detail it is recommended as the first step.

This is sort of what I am doing, aside from I don't have a Rotary buffer,.. and until I can afford one, it is all by hand. Which is another reason I am sort of anxious to see what this NXT is like on removal. If it is considerably easier to remove than paste wax and leaves a nice shine.. I will be more than pleased.

To each his own, yes. But, I agree with your tips,.. I do. I am going to clay the car - and I think you got the wrong impression with my method of claying. I don't intend on doing a half-**** job of it.. I just meant I didn't need to do it in the manner I did trying to remove paint splatter. It will take some time,.. a few hours. But it will be worth it.

I intend on putting some touch up paint on between this weekend and the dawn/clay/polish/seal/wax (maybe wax, depends on how well seal does). So it gets sealed in... I know I won't get every millimeter of old wax/sealant off the car,.. but the majority I will.

There is a spot on the bumper that has oxidized a little.. the paint has thinned out almost to the primer. Is there any compound I can use in this area to perhaps 'spread the existing paint out' ? Then any user friendly 'clear-coat' to shine that part of the rear bumper up? Nothing major, just to make it blend a little better.. there is one spot in particular. (something short of respraying it at a shop).

Another reason I'm waiting to do the 'deep clean' is because of the weather. It rained 24 hours a day Thursday, Friday, and this morning until about noon. Now it is supposed to start again Monday. So when that system gets out of here I will do the major exterior work.

I would have done it that way before, but I am learning as I go. I've always been good at detailing, and the car looks very sharp as it is.. I get comments everywhere I go -- but I want to delve into the world of 'serious' detail.. -- With your help I am getting there.

tod071

Sounds like a plan!

As far as your oxidation on the bumper. Again, try the clay with alot of elbow grease. Then you could use the Megs Deep Crystal System Polish or Paint Cleaner. I haven't used them myself, but have heard good things about it.

Post pics, before and after, when you're done!

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

The bumper is gonna need something more than the clay -- I clayed the heck out of it and double waxed it. No change really. If it is paint worn thin, almost to primer in a 'small' area -- Is there a way to use a product to use surrounding paint to fill it in? Or is that not possible?



*Took this from another post I made recently* --

I decided I would do my 'first' claybar on any vehicle in my lifetime.

Judging by the time I spent,.. I think I could have not rubbed for so long. I ended up spending 4 hours just on the claying. Washed car, dried. Waited 20mins, then started claying .. doing a section at a time with Quick detailer as lube.

I always work the hardest parts first. IE: I went around the very lower trim of the vehicle before moving up. I Clayed everything. I removed front tag, rear tag, and so on. Getting a little more picky with my detail jobs.

I saved the trunk/top of car and Hood for last. I wanted to spend a little extra time on those three pieces, especially the hood.

I didn't think I was spending so much time , but after I was done I glanced at a clock, and was like man! Though I guess the more you clay the better it is. As long as you keep it lubricated.

I'm still not in the ballgame of using polish,.. but I got some NXT this time around. I still have it sitting on the car. Since it actually seals,.. I apply a bit thicker than most, and so far it has been on almost 2 hours. I am about to remove.. (I know this amount of time isn't necessary, but why not? )

After claying the car it looked like it had wax on it. Literally, very shiney. Which is nice.

My thoughts are the claying for 4 hours has left a very good surface for this NXT to bond to. So I am expecting great results when I remove it. -- I'm sort of the kind of guy who thinks.. if your gonna do a job, might as well spend the extra time to do it right. Instead of wasting 45mins of my time rushing to clay the car in speed mode.. I think I got it right by somewhat over-doing it.

My digital camera eats batteries for breakfast, so I'm going to have to dig in remote controls etc to see if I can find something to get a few snapshots.

I will go ahead and take a pic or two of it with THICK (don't laugh).. -- NXT on it that has been sitting for 2+ hours hehe..

Then I will take some 'after' pictures, and in the daylight for a change. Though it is overcast again today.. Not much I can do about that. (Also supposed to rain again for a few days starting tommorow.. sigh).

Anyone else spend that kind of time claying? I didn't feel like I was spending too much time on any one part of the car.. it just takes a long time to cover every sqaure inch of the car , properly, imo. (I guess I could have buffed really fast with the bar itself,.. but I went at a medium pace)

Well, off to remove this NXT.


*Ok replying to the few hours since.*

Wow! I had that stuff on thick. It says no flake/powder residue.. comes off easy etc. NOT when you apply it incorrectly like I did -- From the pictures you will see the amount. For NXT to look like it does in these pictures you know I used a heavy amount, but it is an even layer of THICKness.

I did it on purpose though.. I spent so much time on claybarring, I wanted to be darn sure it sealed in there. I also as I mentioned left the wax sitting on the car for over 2 hours before removal.

Anyhow,.. when I started to remove -- heheh.. It was tough! Hardest wax I've ever removed,.. Lots of elbow grease for the whole time. I know it was 99.9% unnecessary, and waste of time/effort and well, wax,.. But like I said, more is better than not enough imo. (Although I'm sure more has no added benefits).

I am pleased with the results. Very much so.

Either from the clay or the NXT. The surface now FEELS smooth on a deep level like I have been reaching for. It was smooth before with the Meguires Carnuba 3.50$ wax (maroon can).. but it was a very shallow layer, and I could tell it needed alot more.

So I think with this NXT ($13.50) and a polymer,.. combined with 4 hours of Claybar prep really made this job stand out.

Only downside with this car,.. Its color. It is of such a non 'popping' color that it doesn't stand out and say HEY look at me. IE: If it were black or red, or some other darker color that would be looking amazing. So that is almost as good as that color can look. (I'm sure with some Zaino coats, and a PC I can get the sheen up a bit.. but it will still be lacking in comparison to other colors) -- Though with that tradeoff the nicks/general dirt and so forth (swirl marks) do not show up nearly as much as on the 'pop' colors. So it is good and bad. --I don't think I'm making excuses with the 'color theory' .. but if I am, feel free to tell me how I just haven't done enough work on the car. I'm willing to listen.

After I removed the wax,.. I got in the crevices,.. vacuumed the interior (had the windows down with USB playing.. so wax residue got inside) -- Wiped everything down. Finally did my wheel wells with armor all .. a step I've yet , till now, to actually take the time to do. Then of course went over the tires with armor. Cleaned wheels with cloth. (I don't use wheel cleaner,.. don't have any.. I just rub with a cloth. So would wheel cleaner make the wheels look shiney? Or is what I'm doing good enough?)

The interior was already clean, so it didn't take much. I cleaned windows again (didn't rain-x this time) but some might still be there, who knows. I'll probably go back in a bit and rain-x the front and back windows.. very easy process.

Blah blah --

My camera, as I mentioned, had dead batteries, so I scavenged one battery and managed to get 4-5 pictures before it died on me. But I think it is enough to show what needs to be shown. (If anyone looked at my previous 'detail' pic thread from last weekend.. you can compare basically [Last week -- Wash - Carnuba Wax] This weekend [Wash - 4-hour Clay bar of all body/molding of vehicle -- Heavy coating of different wax, NXT Polymer (Sat for ~2.5 hours).]


Thats it. Good, bad? No difference? -- Would a PC make this look ALOT better? I'm wondering how much better I can get things, etc.

Also to finish this long post up -- I have had some proper matched touch up paint (pen) for a while now.. I just haven't used it yet. Is now a good time to use it? As it will be a week or longer before I was again? My thoughts on the application are just a little bit.. not even trying to even anything out, just to get the nicks the appropriate color so they won't stand out as much.

Thanks for all the advice, it is slowly paying off. --I have alot to learn though, but I think I am doing ok for a few weeks into it.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I mentioned that already. I know it was unnecessary.

Thanks for the touch up paint confirmation though.

LRP_LS400

looks good, clay bar can do wonders.