shern

iTrader: (6)

Hello

For those that know me, I take my paint detailing pretty seriously. I have an arsenal comprised of a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher, a Porter Cable 7428 rotary polisher and a complete lineup of Menzerna & Klasse polishes.

I've actually decided to take the step and get myself into a dual-action polisher and get away from the rotary/orbital machines. I like the one step action of the these machines.

My question to you guys is which one do you prefer? They are about the same in price. I understand the Flex is somewhat heavier than the Makita, but it has to be lighter than my heavy rotary. However, from what I've read, the Flex is the machine to get.

BTW, my PC machines will be up for sale soon if I go this route.

PaPaHoFF

iTrader: (19)

Flex over the Makita, however Makita rotary is better than the Flex.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Just a quick question, why would you want to get away from the rotary and back down to the dual-action buffers? If you can master the rotary, I can't think of any reason why anyone would jump down to a DA. Maybe I'm missing something here

shern

iTrader: (6)

Good question. I'm not too fond of my PC 7428 rotary. It's pretty heavy and a handful to control. This may be the reason everybody rocks the Milwaukee and Makita rotaries. Being tough to control obviously leads to swirl marks. I have not mastered it and only really bring it out on really tough jobs.

I actually like the idea of the Dual-action in the fact it's easier to control but still cuts at the same time. I guess I'm getting older and have less and less time to dedicate to polishing (my 1 year old is a handful). So I'm looking to ease the pain a little while still getting good results.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

The PC rotary is indeed heavy. If you're looking to go with a lightweight rotary, get the Makita, Matebo, or the Hitachi. Honestly, I think you're right. The 7428 is what's turning you off. I can never go back to a DA if I can finish everything quicker, correct more, etc all without the crazy vibration. Sell your 7428 and get something else. I have no doubt that you can control a rotary.

BTW, which menzerna are you having trouble with when using the rotary? I find that the Intensive polish isn't so great with the rotary and a cutting pad as it dries out a bit too quickly. I normally spray a spitz of QD/water into my pads before I polish. Makes a world of a difference when it comes to control. The polish works longer, without having the pad skipping all around. What pads are you running?

I'm a firm believer that you should just keep on practicing the rotary until you get good at it. Once you're there, you can't really do any better.

shern

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the feedback.

I never really liked or got used to the PC and always suspected it to be an issue. It's not very balanced either.

I use the IP for the initial polish and usually follow up with Klasse AIO. If the paint is toast (like when I first got my 91 Accord), I break out the Menzerna Power Gloss. You're right about the the IP though, it does dry and get pretty chalky. I do spray my pads with QD before I use it.

BTW, I use the Lake County CCS pads from Classic Motoring. White with the IP, green with the AIO.

So it sounds like the problem is the PC rotary. But I still beg the question, do I go to a Makita rotary or go straight to the Flex?

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

What will you be looking to get for your machines, as I am in the market to purchase one. I know you haven't made up your mind yet, so you can get back to me if/when you do on that.

Speaking of weight.

I've thought about that when I went and actually physically held one in the store the other day. Almost seems like it would be very much a pain on the verticle panels of the car. Not that I couldn't handle it, but here is the question:

Would one get significantly better results say applying something like NXT 2.0 with a PC than by hand? I've thought absolutely,.. but I'm not so sure how big of difference the look will be.

Is it really justified to spend the money on these, then the pads?

Also, does it really speed up the process? Not just slightly, but like cutting it in half or some such while also increasing the 'looks' of the polish/wax/sealant?

I'm almost convinced to go straight form A to Z -- Or basically jump into a Makita rotary. It seems you can even get a good model rotary for cheaper than a good PC. I know it is for 'experienced' users.. but they are variable speed,.. so could one go really easy with it to move into use? Or is that just a huge mistake?

I guess I'm asking, if you are fairly good with your hands and careful is it somewhat possible for a novice to use a rotary without damaging paint and ultimately in time becoming fluent with it?

Lastly, more on topic -- Would Flex be > PC in any regard? Or is it just a brand loyalty thing?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Weight isn't too much of an issue after awhile. You'll eventually find a comfortable position. Heavier machines like the Dewalt and the PC 7428 will take awhile to get use to.

Applying wax isn't the strong point of a buffer if you're looking for increased shine. It'll apply the wax thinner and more evenly, but for shine? Not really. Where it counts is the polishing stage. And yes, I think it's worth it if you really love your paint.

Depends on what machine you get and how good you are. Polishing with a PC is hundreds times faster than polishing by hand (not sure who does this). But I can use my rotary and cut the time in half, or a 3rd if the paint job is horrific.

Using a rotary is not hard. You always get people scaring you with all kinds of comments. Some even tell you that it takes years to perfect rotary. I call that horsesh|t. Maybe it takes a crappy learner years but if you get the basics down, then you'll learn it in no time. I lent my buddy my rotary and after practicing it on two cars, he can now finish the job without any halograms or marring. You just have to keep a few things in mind when you're buffing.

I would never recommend someone to get a rotary if they have no desire to learn it. But if you're really wanting to learn the rotary, I say go for it and skip all the dual action stuff. Once you get it down, you'll be glad you went with the rotary. Using a PC at first is nice if you dont want to risk paint damage. But what you do with a PC doesn't make you any more qualified to use a rotary.


Best advice is to get a junk'ed panel and practice on it. The flat surface will be easy. It's the vertical and edges that takes more practice. You can always start out at slow speed and get good results.


Haven't used a Flex yet, but I would imagine it to be a stronger than a PC. You'll get more correcting power out of the flex.

jfelbab

Another one to consider is the new (Jan 08) G110 Dual action polisher.



It's getting good reviews but I personally haven't used one. I have the PC 7228 and 7336. I use both. The rotary for difficult details and the DA for most others. The 7228 is a handful for me and I never did get used to the weight. I've owned both for 11 years. There are jobs that need the rotary yet most of mine do not. I prefer to use the DA when I can. I use the DA for paint cleaning, polishing, and waxing.

The new G110 looks very interesting as it is lighter, more powerful and from the reviews easy to handle. If I were to have to purchase a new DA this would be the one I'd buy. As it is, I have a lifetime warranty on my 7336 (G100) so if it ever does die I'll have to see what they replace it with.

Review: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21543

kickin8

iTrader: (1)

good info. Thanks Jim...

not that bad of a price for $150?

shern

iTrader: (6)

That Mequiars polisher looks more like an orbital vs. a dual-action. I'd like to know the circular stroke on this thiing. I bet it's no more than the 7424.

shern

iTrader: (6)

BTW, here is the link to the manufacturer's website:

http://www.flex-tools.com/gb/Produkt..._VRG/index.php

jfelbab

Here is a link to a comparison chart.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...ght=g110+specs

Losiho

Have you considered the Festool Rotex ? It's a "real" dual action machine, like the Makita 6040. A little lighter than the Makita, but the Makita has a little more torque.