Can someone please help with glass cleaning info
05-30-08 | 08:35 AM
#1
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 33
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From: pa
Can someone please help with glass cleaning info
I have a 97 es300 and the one thing I've always had trouble doing properly is cleaning the windows, in and out. Can anyone please give me any quick tips (what kind of cloth to use etc) thanks
05-30-08 | 10:43 AM
#2
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 257
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From: Texas
Hi Phil,
I would recommend our Glass Cleaner. It does not streak and smear all over the glass. We formulated it with enzymes that actually cut through grime and leave the surface....well, as clear as glass.
I would recommend our Glass Cleaner. It does not streak and smear all over the glass. We formulated it with enzymes that actually cut through grime and leave the surface....well, as clear as glass.
05-30-08 | 05:12 PM
#6
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,283
Likes: 59
From: FL
Glass Cleaning 101
I've cleaned a lot of glass and have found two OTC products that are superior at cleaning oil and film. The first is Stoners Invisible Glass. The second is Meguiar's NXT Glass Cleaner. When used with short nap micro-fiber towels they provide excellent cleaning with streak free results. There is a third product I'll mention that is extremely good but it is only available from Meguiar's direct. It's their Detailer Line Glass Cleaner concentrate. This gallon of concentrate gets mixed with water at 1:10 ratio. So the gallon turns out 11 gallons of a most remarkable cleaner. For those who detail a lot of cars this is worth getting.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
05-30-08 | 05:15 PM
#7
Pole Position
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 238
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From: OR
I use SprayWay glass cleaner with a microfiber towel. I actually use the $15 35pack of yellow general microfiber towels at Costco, which is where I picked up the SprayWay as well. I believe the SprayWay was less than $8 for a 4pack.
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05-31-08 | 06:50 AM
#9
Dysfunctional Veteran
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,828
Likes: 160
From: Van Alstyne, TX
I've cleaned a lot of glass and have found two OTC products that are superior at cleaning oil and film. The first is Stoners Invisible Glass. The second is Meguiar's NXT Glass Cleaner. When used with short nap micro-fiber towels they provide excellent cleaning with streak free results. There is a third product I'll mention that is extremely good but it is only available from Meguiar's direct. It's their Detailer Line Glass Cleaner concentrate. This gallon of concentrate gets mixed with water at 1:10 ratio. So the gallon turns out 11 gallons of a most remarkable cleaner. For those who detail a lot of cars this is worth getting.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
the only way you have a visibility problem, is if you didnt get all the haze off. at times in the rain on the interstate, i dont even have to turn on the wipers, and a few times at night it took me a second to realize it was even raining.
05-31-08 | 01:51 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: pa
I've cleaned a lot of glass and have found two OTC products that are superior at cleaning oil and film. The first is Stoners Invisible Glass. The second is Meguiar's NXT Glass Cleaner. When used with short nap micro-fiber towels they provide excellent cleaning with streak free results. There is a third product I'll mention that is extremely good but it is only available from Meguiar's direct. It's their Detailer Line Glass Cleaner concentrate. This gallon of concentrate gets mixed with water at 1:10 ratio. So the gallon turns out 11 gallons of a most remarkable cleaner. For those who detail a lot of cars this is worth getting.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
Some Do's and Don'ts.
• Do clean your windows in the shade when the glass is cool.
• Do use a microfiber dampened with the glass cleaner and wipe dry with a separate dry miocrofiber using light strokes until the glass is dry and slippery smooth. If you feel any drag on the dry towel, the glass is not yet clean and you need to redo it until it feels slippery.
• Do use a product on your interior dash and vinyl that doesn't emit a lot of film or oil vapors. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. It isn't shiny, provides UV protection and doesn't seem to outgas.
• Don't use a glass cleaner with ammonia in it. This will leave a film and ammonia might just ruin a tint.
• Don't use newspaper. This used to work back when the newsprint was printed on high rag paper with real inks. Today they will usually just leave oily streaks. Microfibers work much better.
• Don't let your microfiber towels get anywhere close to any cotton towels. MF towels draw up cotton fibers like a damp sponge draws up water and you will have a major lint problems with them forever after.
These products and microfibers work well on both the inside and outside. Occasionally you might find that the exterior glass might need more agressive cleanning. When I detail a vehicle, I begin by washing and claying. After claying the paint I clay the exterior glass. Clay will safely remove a lot of really tough road grime on the glass, especially the windshield.
Some newer vehicles come with a permanent water repelling coating on the side glass so be sure you know what your are doing before using any abrasives on this glass or you will damage this coating. Using steel wool, for example, will cut right through this coating.
I've also known people who wax their glass but I've found that this usually causes poor visibility at night in the rain.
Glass is hard and doesn't need wax to protect it unlike your paint. Wax clearly degrades over time and especially under harsh environmental pollution and sunlight. Why put something on your glass that will degrade your visibility. It's simply not needed. If you want the water to rush off the glass it's probably better to use a product designed for glass like RainX or Aquapel. I prefer clean glass as any coating you put on the glass may cause wiper chatter or visibility issues.
06-05-08 | 03:36 PM
#11
So after seeing many of their ads in my car magazines AND reading the opinions of a few here, I went out and bought Stoners Invisible glass cleaner. This product is amazing but gotta question. Normally when I clean my windshield, I apply Rain-X on it. Last weekend when I put the Rain-X on the glass, I didn't do it right this time because my windshield ended up looking hazy. So I bought a can of Stoners and my windshield has not looked so good since I first bought my ride. Now to my question. The last two days we've had some heavy rain. On the highway, the water was beading away off the windshield. Does the Stoners also make rain bead off the glass or is that perhaps leftover Rain-X solution that still may be on the windshield? As far as I know, it's a cleaning solution.
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