Questions about auto detailing
07-24-08, 09:39 PM
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Questions about auto detailing
Alright, so I'm 16 (yeup I'm young compared to all of you guys haha) and I'm pretty new to auto detailing stuff cause I got an 02' Black Lexus GS300. I got a few noobie questions so here they are! 
1. What is the difference between the color pads and how do I know which one is right for my case (and what's the difference between a CCS pad and a normal one? What are the benefits of each)?
2. What does "cut" mean?
3. If I polish, wax, etc by hand, do I just use the pads that are meant for a power buffer? Would this be as good quality as if I used a power buffer?
4. Again, if I were to do it by hand, how long do you think it would take for wetsanding the whole car (there's scratches everywhere), claying, polishing, waxing?
5. If I were to do that, would I wetsand first (do I have to rewash again after?) and then clay and then rewash the car?
6. When hand-applying polish/wax and such, am I supposed to use moderate pressure the whole time or can I press down hard (since there's not as much heat from friction in comparison to the power buffer)?
7. Also, touch up paint, do I just apply it and then sand it then polish? Or is there supposed to be some type of clear-coating that I apply after?
8. Will wet-sanding decrease the longevity of my clear-coat?
9. Okay, so lots of people seem to use 2 polishes when they detail their car, is there different types of polish (i.e. "beginning" polish and then "finishing" polish)?
Thanks everyone in advance for helping me out!
1. What is the difference between the color pads and how do I know which one is right for my case (and what's the difference between a CCS pad and a normal one? What are the benefits of each)?
2. What does "cut" mean?
3. If I polish, wax, etc by hand, do I just use the pads that are meant for a power buffer? Would this be as good quality as if I used a power buffer?
4. Again, if I were to do it by hand, how long do you think it would take for wetsanding the whole car (there's scratches everywhere), claying, polishing, waxing?
5. If I were to do that, would I wetsand first (do I have to rewash again after?) and then clay and then rewash the car?
6. When hand-applying polish/wax and such, am I supposed to use moderate pressure the whole time or can I press down hard (since there's not as much heat from friction in comparison to the power buffer)?
7. Also, touch up paint, do I just apply it and then sand it then polish? Or is there supposed to be some type of clear-coating that I apply after?
8. Will wet-sanding decrease the longevity of my clear-coat?
9. Okay, so lots of people seem to use 2 polishes when they detail their car, is there different types of polish (i.e. "beginning" polish and then "finishing" polish)?
Thanks everyone in advance for helping me out!
Last edited by butterbeer; 07-24-08 at 09:50 PM.
07-24-08, 10:38 PM
#2
Alright, so I'm 16 (yeup I'm young compared to all of you guys haha) and I'm pretty new to auto detailing stuff cause I got an 02' Black Lexus GS300. I got a few noobie questions so here they are!
1. What is the difference between the color pads and how do I know which one is right for my case (and what's the difference between a CCS pad and a normal one? What are the benefits of each)?
A) Difference between the color of pads is the cutting power. Depending on the brand, the color varies.
B) The difference between a flat pad vs a wavy or one with bumps is the cutting field. Most flat pads tend to cut more in the middle vs a wavy pad which gives more of an even cut.
2. What does "cut" mean?
Cut basically means how aggressive the pad and polish is. You want to start out with the least aggressive combo of polish and pad first and work your way up until you fix the problem.
3. If I polish, wax, etc by hand, do I just use the pads that are meant for a power buffer? Would this be as good quality as if I used a power buffer?
I would recommend the use of a foam or MF applicator if you plan not to use a power buffer.
4. Again, if I were to do it by hand, how long do you think it would take for wetsanding the whole car (there's scratches everywhere), claying, polishing, waxing?
I strongly recommend not to wetsand if you are going to be doing it by hand. A portercable has hard enough time fully removing the wet sanding scratches and to do so by hand is crazy. On a normal 1 step polish, exterior detail it can take me from 6-10 hours depending on the size and condition of the paint. Since you will be doing it by hand it will take a very long time to get the results your going for.
5. If I were to do that, would I wetsand first (do I have to rewash again after?) and then clay and then rewash the car?
You would wash, clay and then wetsand. After wetsanding is complete, you would polish or compound out the wetsanding scratches if necessary.
6. When hand-applying polish/wax and such, am I supposed to use moderate pressure the whole time or can I press down hard (since there's not as much heat from friction in comparison to the power buffer)?
I would apply an even amount of pressure throughout the whole car. The force of the pressure is up to you however. I would personally apply moderate pressure and repeat if necessary. The harder you press in some cases you actually are marring the paint which is doing more damage than good.
7. Also, touch up paint, do I just apply it and then sand it then polish? Or is there supposed to be some type of clear-coating that I apply after?
Yes, that is correct. Clear coat is optional. Some people use it, some people dont. I would personally opt for the clear coat as it is better for the car.
8. Will wet-sanding decrease the longevity of my clear-coat?
Without a doubt yes. The more you polish, compound, wetsand.. the more CC you remove. Eventually you will run out. I wouldnt polish your car more than 2 times a year.
9. Okay, so lots of people seem to use 2 polishes when they detail their car, is there different types of polish (i.e. "beginning" polish and then "finishing" polish)?
Yes, there are tons of polishes out there. Some more aggressive than others. Basically what you are referring to is a 2 step polish in the detailing world. First you apply your aggressive polish/pad combo to remove your defects and then you finish up with a LSP or Finishing Polish/Pad combo to remove any slight defects brought upon by the first step such as holograms.
Thanks everyone in advance for helping me out!
1. What is the difference between the color pads and how do I know which one is right for my case (and what's the difference between a CCS pad and a normal one? What are the benefits of each)?
A) Difference between the color of pads is the cutting power. Depending on the brand, the color varies.
B) The difference between a flat pad vs a wavy or one with bumps is the cutting field. Most flat pads tend to cut more in the middle vs a wavy pad which gives more of an even cut.
2. What does "cut" mean?
Cut basically means how aggressive the pad and polish is. You want to start out with the least aggressive combo of polish and pad first and work your way up until you fix the problem.
3. If I polish, wax, etc by hand, do I just use the pads that are meant for a power buffer? Would this be as good quality as if I used a power buffer?
I would recommend the use of a foam or MF applicator if you plan not to use a power buffer.
4. Again, if I were to do it by hand, how long do you think it would take for wetsanding the whole car (there's scratches everywhere), claying, polishing, waxing?
I strongly recommend not to wetsand if you are going to be doing it by hand. A portercable has hard enough time fully removing the wet sanding scratches and to do so by hand is crazy. On a normal 1 step polish, exterior detail it can take me from 6-10 hours depending on the size and condition of the paint. Since you will be doing it by hand it will take a very long time to get the results your going for.
5. If I were to do that, would I wetsand first (do I have to rewash again after?) and then clay and then rewash the car?
You would wash, clay and then wetsand. After wetsanding is complete, you would polish or compound out the wetsanding scratches if necessary.
6. When hand-applying polish/wax and such, am I supposed to use moderate pressure the whole time or can I press down hard (since there's not as much heat from friction in comparison to the power buffer)?
I would apply an even amount of pressure throughout the whole car. The force of the pressure is up to you however. I would personally apply moderate pressure and repeat if necessary. The harder you press in some cases you actually are marring the paint which is doing more damage than good.
7. Also, touch up paint, do I just apply it and then sand it then polish? Or is there supposed to be some type of clear-coating that I apply after?
Yes, that is correct. Clear coat is optional. Some people use it, some people dont. I would personally opt for the clear coat as it is better for the car.
8. Will wet-sanding decrease the longevity of my clear-coat?
Without a doubt yes. The more you polish, compound, wetsand.. the more CC you remove. Eventually you will run out. I wouldnt polish your car more than 2 times a year.
9. Okay, so lots of people seem to use 2 polishes when they detail their car, is there different types of polish (i.e. "beginning" polish and then "finishing" polish)?
Yes, there are tons of polishes out there. Some more aggressive than others. Basically what you are referring to is a 2 step polish in the detailing world. First you apply your aggressive polish/pad combo to remove your defects and then you finish up with a LSP or Finishing Polish/Pad combo to remove any slight defects brought upon by the first step such as holograms.
Thanks everyone in advance for helping me out!
07-24-08, 11:10 PM
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AH! Thank you very much Okay so foam applicator pad, do you mean something like this? http://www.meguiars.com/?specialized...Applicator-Pad
Also, would you suggest me to put like a piece of flat cardboard behind the foam applicator so that I apply even pressure throughout the whole pad? (like a sanding block except for the applicator pads)
From what I see it looks like the MF and foam pads don't have different levels of aggressiveness other than MF being less aggressive, is that correct?
weehee now I'm excited to start detailing haha
Okay so foam applicator pad, do you mean something like this? http://www.meguiars.com/?specialized...Applicator-PadAlso, would you suggest me to put like a piece of flat cardboard behind the foam applicator so that I apply even pressure throughout the whole pad? (like a sanding block except for the applicator pads)
From what I see it looks like the MF and foam pads don't have different levels of aggressiveness other than MF being less aggressive, is that correct?
weehee now I'm excited to start detailing haha
07-25-08, 02:18 AM
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There are pads specifically designed for hand polishing. Same color system as the machine ones. Lake Country pads go from Yellow (heavy cut), Orange (light cut), Green (heavy polish), White (Polishing), Black (Finishing), and Red/Blue (final finishing).
http://www.detailemporium.com/produc...&productId=132
Don't be afraid to ask questions here and us "little older guys" will try and help you out as much as we can. Good luck and happy detailing!
http://www.detailemporium.com/produc...&productId=132
Don't be afraid to ask questions here and us "little older guys" will try and help you out as much as we can. Good luck and happy detailing!
07-25-08, 03:55 PM
#5
Don't try wetsanding on your car. I would suggest you buy a car hood/panel from a junk yard and practice on that. You're basically quickly removing clearcoat so that the top layer will be even and fresh. You can't replace clearcoat unless you re-paint.
As far as the pads these are USUALLY the color pads. There's no universal color code so each manufacturer will vary a little.
Yellow/green - medium or heavy cut - medium to heavy repairs
Orange - light cut - minor repairs/scratches/water mark, etc
White - finishing polish/remove old waxes
Blue/black - apply wax/sealant
Red - final LSP (no cut)
Weight applied, RPM, and even product use can add/increase the cut between each pads. I normally start with a light cutting pad and work myself higher. You never want to go straight to the heavy stuff.
FYI: You can't really achieve the same result with your hands vs using a polisher machine. Well if you can, you'll have some crazy fast/strong guns.
As far as the pads these are USUALLY the color pads. There's no universal color code so each manufacturer will vary a little.
Yellow/green - medium or heavy cut - medium to heavy repairs
Orange - light cut - minor repairs/scratches/water mark, etc
White - finishing polish/remove old waxes
Blue/black - apply wax/sealant
Red - final LSP (no cut)
Weight applied, RPM, and even product use can add/increase the cut between each pads. I normally start with a light cutting pad and work myself higher. You never want to go straight to the heavy stuff.
FYI: You can't really achieve the same result with your hands vs using a polisher machine. Well if you can, you'll have some crazy fast/strong guns.
07-27-08, 12:11 AM
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ooooo LOL amateur body builder...well i'm a skinny little 5'5 asian kid...HAHA. Okay anyways, so Huy said that there's yellow/green/orange for removing swirl marks right? Then there's white pad for finishing polish. I'm kinda confused, cause I thought all you needed was one polish and one wax, but then there's like finishing polish and LSP? (what does LSP mean lol). Basically, I'm wondering how many times I need to polish and how many times I need to wax...I always thought it was just one layer of polish then one layer of wax and then you're all done.
Also, claying is only if your car feels "sandlike" right? Mine feels pretty smooth after I wash it so can I just go:
1. Wash
2. Polish
3. Wax?
And one more thing (I hope so...questions keep poppin up in my head LOL). I found this in my garage:
http://www.hardwareworld.com/03900-8...d-p9W7CH5.aspx
What, exactly, is rubbing compound? It says it removes swirl marks and such. Is it something you apply before the polish? Or is it the polish...? LOL hella confused. Thanks for everyone that's replied so far, you guys have been a big help
Also, claying is only if your car feels "sandlike" right? Mine feels pretty smooth after I wash it so can I just go:
1. Wash
2. Polish
3. Wax?
And one more thing (I hope so...questions keep poppin up in my head LOL). I found this in my garage:
http://www.hardwareworld.com/03900-8...d-p9W7CH5.aspx
What, exactly, is rubbing compound? It says it removes swirl marks and such. Is it something you apply before the polish? Or is it the polish...? LOL hella confused. Thanks for everyone that's replied so far, you guys have been a big help
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07-30-08, 06:34 PM
#8
The purpose of detailing your car is to remove imperfections..Swirls, bird/water etching, contaminants, overspray and etc; all contribute to compromising the finish...
The basic idea to detailing is to remove contaminants by claying and then to remove swirls by leveling the paint and then protecting it with a wax and/or sealant...Believe it or not, thats it!! Its not rocket science...
A polish is an abrasive, meaning that it cuts into the paint so you can level it out....Leveling the paint is the only way to permanently get rid of swirls....A rubbing compound is more like a aggressive polish, it cuts into the paint heavily and quickily...Compounds are used to remove 1500-2000grit sand marks and overspray on paint...A compound will leave "marring" or known as buff trails because of its aggressive nature...Compounds should only be used when heavy paint correction is needed....Given that compounds are the heaviest of all abrasives; there are also various other abrasive that cut at different levels...Most companies have a heavy cut polish, mild cut and finishing polish...All used for different levels of polishing...You should always start out with the least aggressive polish and work your way up from there...This way, you reduce buffer trails as described above and you could level your paint without cutting too much into it...
Rule number 1 is you ALWAYS clay before you polish..It doesn't matter if your paint feels smooth, chances are if you didnt' clay and wax for couple of months contaminants are on your paint...By claying first, you start off with the cleanest possible surface to polish (level) your paint....By not claying first, you tackling contaminants on the paint rather than leveling your paint...
A glaze on the otherhand hides imperfections, gives a deeper gloss for a short peroid of time, and provides limited protection...
A wax gives protection against sun, rain, and other earthly elements...They are either man-made synthetic like NXT or carnuaba type wax collected from the trees in Brazil...Synthetics usually last longer than carnauba type waxes....However, carnauba generally are much clear depending on the carnauba concentration....From experience, black and other dark color cars usually look best with carnauba type waxs....Metallic looks best with synthetic type waxes...
Thats all i can think of right now....
The basic idea to detailing is to remove contaminants by claying and then to remove swirls by leveling the paint and then protecting it with a wax and/or sealant...Believe it or not, thats it!! Its not rocket science...
A polish is an abrasive, meaning that it cuts into the paint so you can level it out....Leveling the paint is the only way to permanently get rid of swirls....A rubbing compound is more like a aggressive polish, it cuts into the paint heavily and quickily...Compounds are used to remove 1500-2000grit sand marks and overspray on paint...A compound will leave "marring" or known as buff trails because of its aggressive nature...Compounds should only be used when heavy paint correction is needed....Given that compounds are the heaviest of all abrasives; there are also various other abrasive that cut at different levels...Most companies have a heavy cut polish, mild cut and finishing polish...All used for different levels of polishing...You should always start out with the least aggressive polish and work your way up from there...This way, you reduce buffer trails as described above and you could level your paint without cutting too much into it...
Rule number 1 is you ALWAYS clay before you polish..It doesn't matter if your paint feels smooth, chances are if you didnt' clay and wax for couple of months contaminants are on your paint...By claying first, you start off with the cleanest possible surface to polish (level) your paint....By not claying first, you tackling contaminants on the paint rather than leveling your paint...
A glaze on the otherhand hides imperfections, gives a deeper gloss for a short peroid of time, and provides limited protection...
A wax gives protection against sun, rain, and other earthly elements...They are either man-made synthetic like NXT or carnuaba type wax collected from the trees in Brazil...Synthetics usually last longer than carnauba type waxes....However, carnauba generally are much clear depending on the carnauba concentration....From experience, black and other dark color cars usually look best with carnauba type waxs....Metallic looks best with synthetic type waxes...
Thats all i can think of right now....
Last edited by One HoT; 07-30-08 at 06:38 PM.
07-31-08, 07:14 AM
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ooooo LOL amateur body builder...well i'm a skinny little 5'5 asian kid...HAHA. Okay anyways, so Huy said that there's yellow/green/orange for removing swirl marks right? Then there's white pad for finishing polish. I'm kinda confused, cause I thought all you needed was one polish and one wax, but then there's like finishing polish and LSP? (what does LSP mean lol). Basically, I'm wondering how many times I need to polish and how many times I need to wax...I always thought it was just one layer of polish then one layer of wax and then you're all done.
Also, claying is only if your car feels "sandlike" right? Mine feels pretty smooth after I wash it so can I just go:
1. Wash
2. Polish
3. Wax?
And one more thing (I hope so...questions keep poppin up in my head LOL). I found this in my garage:
http://www.hardwareworld.com/03900-8...d-p9W7CH5.aspx
What, exactly, is rubbing compound? It says it removes swirl marks and such. Is it something you apply before the polish? Or is it the polish...? LOL hella confused. Thanks for everyone that's replied so far, you guys have been a big help
Also, claying is only if your car feels "sandlike" right? Mine feels pretty smooth after I wash it so can I just go:
1. Wash
2. Polish
3. Wax?
And one more thing (I hope so...questions keep poppin up in my head LOL). I found this in my garage:
http://www.hardwareworld.com/03900-8...d-p9W7CH5.aspx
What, exactly, is rubbing compound? It says it removes swirl marks and such. Is it something you apply before the polish? Or is it the polish...? LOL hella confused. Thanks for everyone that's replied so far, you guys have been a big help
As for having one polish/one wax. That depends on a few things. A: what polish is it. B: how strong is it, C: How much defect removal were you planning on doing, etc etc. You can use a product like Optimum Polish http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/optimumpolish.html which is pretty pad dependent. You can use it w/ an orange pad, green, white and probably even a black pad if you wanted. So I suppose you can apply the "one polish" term here if you wanted. However, using optimum polish on an orange pad wont remove as many defects as say, optimum compound http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/opco.html on an orange pad. But going OP/Org as opposed to OC/Org is one way of moving up the ladder in terms of aggrssion. Either way, I'd still suggest following it up on a white pad to refine the finish. How many times in total you polish will again depend on what you're looking to get out of the finish.
If youre just looking to do some polishing to bring out a higher luster/gloss, you can just do optimum polish on a white pad, then finish it off with a wax. Now, you can layer wax too if you want, lol. Usually, one layer is sufficient, although people do claim better results with certain waxes after multiple applications.
You can seriously get lost in all of the different methods, steps, products and ways to apply it all. Dont look too much in to it imo. The process you outlined is perfectly fine. (although, if the car hasnt been clayed in over a year, I would still suggest it).
Then the process would look like,
wash
clay
polish
wax
And you'll be set.
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