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Old 03-09-09, 04:30 AM
  #166  
pickle
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Thanks Chris, After inspecting the roof, I think I can get a majority of the scratches out, but there are a few that are deep enough to catch a fingernail when dragged across them. I'll have to take some before/after photos to share when I begin the process. anything that doesn't come out, I plan on hiding with black hole glaze and 2 coats of EXP and then 2+ coats of Collinite. Steve at Poorboy's seemed to think this would last for about 6 weeks or more before needing to be re-applied. your thoughts on hiding any remaining scratches?
Old 03-09-09, 07:05 AM
  #167  
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Default Dashboard scuff

Chris,

Any suggestions for how to get rid of a scratch/scuff mark on the dashboard (actually the glove box door) of my IS 350? It's small (about 1"), but annoys me. I've already tried Optimum Leather Protectant, and that didn't really help. Someone suggested a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, but I'm concerned about damaging the surrounding area.

Thanks.
Old 03-11-09, 08:39 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by pickle
Thanks Chris, After inspecting the roof, I think I can get a majority of the scratches out, but there are a few that are deep enough to catch a fingernail when dragged across them. I'll have to take some before/after photos to share when I begin the process. anything that doesn't come out, I plan on hiding with black hole glaze and 2 coats of EXP and then 2+ coats of Collinite. Steve at Poorboy's seemed to think this would last for about 6 weeks or more before needing to be re-applied. your thoughts on hiding any remaining scratches?
I think you have a good process outlined for that area, so I'd stick to that. There really isnt much more that you could really do imo. I think you'll be happy w/ the results

Originally Posted by shawndover
Chris,

Any suggestions for how to get rid of a scratch/scuff mark on the dashboard (actually the glove box door) of my IS 350? It's small (about 1"), but annoys me. I've already tried Optimum Leather Protectant, and that didn't really help. Someone suggested a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, but I'm concerned about damaging the surrounding area.

Thanks.
The scratches that I've come across, I've wound up leaving for the same reasons. I never wanted to possibly affect the surrounding area and make a small defect become more visible by changing the texture of the dash around the original mark. Unfortunately, I dont have any "safe" ideas to offer on this one
Old 06-14-09, 08:36 PM
  #169  
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I need help deciding which Porter cable package to purchase.I have a 93 dwp sc400 that has ALOT of swirls,but no nicks or scratches.Would the Poorboys package be good?Which pad size and type do you recommend?Also looking to buy a clay bar,but not sure which grade to buy,Ill be using it on the sc and my 2007 scion tc that has only been waxed once and washed evey few months...Sad I know,Please help lol.
Thanks,
Philip
Old 06-15-09, 03:29 PM
  #170  
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On the hood, is there a possibility that some parts of the paint have no more clear vs. others? And how can I tell short of spot testing everywhere?
Old 06-15-09, 08:50 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by 66fasty
I need help deciding which Porter cable package to purchase.I have a 93 dwp sc400 that has ALOT of swirls,but no nicks or scratches.Would the Poorboys package be good?Which pad size and type do you recommend?Also looking to buy a clay bar,but not sure which grade to buy,Ill be using it on the sc and my 2007 scion tc that has only been waxed once and washed evey few months...Sad I know,Please help lol.
Thanks,
Philip
iirc Chris is on vacation so I'll try to help in his absense lol. For the Poorboys products, I've heard very good things about them in the past. Obviously for some swirls, you'll need to do multiple hits to remove them to the point that you are happy with. Polish and machine are only part of the equation. Your determination is the main factor in the finished project

IMO a fine to medium grade clay bar would be ideal for your paint. Try out the Megs Clay Kit at Target, that is a fine grade bar. If it doesn't do the job, you'll need something stronger like medium
Originally Posted by AznJason
On the hood, is there a possibility that some parts of the paint have no more clear vs. others? And how can I tell short of spot testing everywhere?
There is definitely a possibility of uneven paint coatings. Easiest way to tell is with a paint meter. In terms of hardness, if its the same clear used on the entire hood, theoretically it should polish out the same way, but that may not be the case. Paint is full of surprises to say the least
Old 06-15-09, 10:28 PM
  #172  
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Thank you,Ive read good thing about thier products.Sadly,I used to work at a nissan dealer as a "detailer" but all I did was interiors and an exterior detail in there eyes was waxing with banana wax haha.Ill try it out and post up results and lots of questions Im sure.
Old 06-15-09, 10:48 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by 66fasty
I need help deciding which Porter cable package to purchase.I have a 93 dwp sc400 that has ALOT of swirls,but no nicks or scratches.Would the Poorboys package be good?Which pad size and type do you recommend?Also looking to buy a clay bar,but not sure which grade to buy,Ill be using it on the sc and my 2007 scion tc that has only been waxed once and washed evey few months...Sad I know,Please help lol.
Thanks,
Philip
Originally Posted by AznJason
On the hood, is there a possibility that some parts of the paint have no more clear vs. others? And how can I tell short of spot testing everywhere?
Originally Posted by eyezack87
iirc Chris is on vacation so I'll try to help in his absense lol. For the Poorboys products, I've heard very good things about them in the past. Obviously for some swirls, you'll need to do multiple hits to remove them to the point that you are happy with. Polish and machine are only part of the equation. Your determination is the main factor in the finished project

IMO a fine to medium grade clay bar would be ideal for your paint. Try out the Megs Clay Kit at Target, that is a fine grade bar. If it doesn't do the job, you'll need something stronger like medium

There is definitely a possibility of uneven paint coatings. Easiest way to tell is with a paint meter. In terms of hardness, if its the same clear used on the entire hood, theoretically it should polish out the same way, but that may not be the case. Paint is full of surprises to say the least
Thanks bro, I appreciate the help

As mentioned, the Poorboys Kit is a great choice. I consistently get positive feedback on that kit. The Optimum and Meguiars kits are both solid kits as well though. The Megs kit may arguably be able to remove more swirls based on 105 vs ssr2.5. M105 is pretty strong, but does finish down very nicely.
I would suggest going w/ the 5.5" ccs pads in either case. I find that they work much better on the PC/DA style machines. Pair the orange pad w/ the ssr2.5 (or comparable product... opt. compound, 105) and the white pad w/ the ssr1 (opt polish, m205). 2.5 worked at speed 5+ and ssr at speed 4.

As for clay, if you'll be claying a few vehicles, the 200g gray bar would be sufficient. Its the most commonly used bar and can tackle the large majority of jobs. Unless the vehicle is in really bad shape, you shouldnt really need much more than the gray bar. Luber is a really great clay lube as well.

Originally Posted by 66fasty
Thank you,Ive read good thing about thier products.Sadly,I used to work at a nissan dealer as a "detailer" but all I did was interiors and an exterior detail in there eyes was waxing with banana wax haha.Ill try it out and post up results and lots of questions Im sure.
I dont think you'll have a problem using the Porter cable. Its a very user friendly machine. Once you do a panel or two, you should be pretty comfortable with it And dont hesitate to ask questions. Lots of knowledge in the forum to help you get through the detail
Old 06-15-09, 11:07 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by eyezack87
There is definitely a possibility of uneven paint coatings. Easiest way to tell is with a paint meter. In terms of hardness, if its the same clear used on the entire hood, theoretically it should polish out the same way, but that may not be the case. Paint is full of surprises to say the least
Paint meters are so expensive though... I want to be an amateur investing amateur money

Is there a visual way to tell? Like, it'll look less glossy where clear is running out?

Or... what's the consequence if the clear runs out and I end up using Mezerna IP on it?
Old 06-16-09, 08:21 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by AznJason
Paint meters are so expensive though... I want to be an amateur investing amateur money

Is there a visual way to tell? Like, it'll look less glossy where clear is running out?

Or... what's the consequence if the clear runs out and I end up using Mezerna IP on it?
$200 for a Highline Meter is better than over $200 for a brand new paint job

Theres almost no way to tell visually unfortunately...
Old 06-16-09, 08:55 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by AznJason
Paint meters are so expensive though... I want to be an amateur investing amateur money

Is there a visual way to tell? Like, it'll look less glossy where clear is running out?

Or... what's the consequence if the clear runs out and I end up using Mezerna IP on it?
Unfortunately no way to tell just by looking. Burning through clear is pretty unlikely w/ a PC. If an area were to get damaged, you'd most likely need to bring it to a shop for paint work. But again, its pretty rare for that to happen.
Old 06-16-09, 08:55 PM
  #177  
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And just to clarify, all PC orders are now put together w/ the NEW PC 7424xp
Old 06-16-09, 10:53 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by eyezack87
$200 for a Highline Meter is better than over $200 for a brand new paint job

Theres almost no way to tell visually unfortunately...
There's a $200 one? I keep seeing like, $600 and $700 ones that connect with your computer and stuff. What's the easiest/cheapest paint meter that would suffice?

Also, how do paint meters measure the clear? Is it just the distance between the meter and the first non-transparent material? I.e. If I use the paint meter on a spot that happens to have tree sap, would it return me the thickness of clear+sap? Or just the sap?
Old 06-16-09, 11:42 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by AznJason
There's a $200 one? I keep seeing like, $600 and $700 ones that connect with your computer and stuff. What's the easiest/cheapest paint meter that would suffice?

Also, how do paint meters measure the clear? Is it just the distance between the meter and the first non-transparent material? I.e. If I use the paint meter on a spot that happens to have tree sap, would it return me the thickness of clear+sap? Or just the sap?
http://highlinemeter.com/

That is the best one for the price. They measure all of the paint, clear, base, primer. Only on metal surfaces though, no plastic

Sides, when you measure paint, surface is supposed to be clean lol
Old 06-17-09, 12:23 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by eyezack87
http://highlinemeter.com/

That is the best one for the price. They measure all of the paint, clear, base, primer. Only on metal surfaces though, no plastic

Sides, when you measure paint, surface is supposed to be clean lol
If I understand it correctly, it'll tell me the thickness to the body. So, how do I use it to make sure I don't bust through the clear? Or is it more like, if I find a spot without clear, measure that and use it as a basis for thickness of the paint and thicker than that means clear?


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