butterbeer

instead of buying clay lube, can i just use a water bottle sprayer with a bit of car wash shampoo as lube?

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Sweeeeeet! Thats not bad of a price for a setup like that. Sorta glad I taught an enthusiast how to detail today haha

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

As long as it feels lubricated you can. I've used NXT wash and Gold Class. My friend used Poorboys wash before he swapped to something cheaper lol

It didn't have any adverse effects on me nor my friend but I picked up a gallon of Meguiars Last Touch (dilutable 1:1) for everything now

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

Last touch is awesome...I picked up a gallon for only $11.50, before that I was using final inspection as a lube...It was quite pricey at 25 + shipping for a gallon....

From experience, using car wash as clay lube tends to break down the clay and make it a bit slippery to handle....I guess maybe I didn't dilute it enough....Either way, its a better to use a QD like final inspection or last touch as lube instead....The finish seems comes out cleaner after you clay and wipe with a MF..Plus, you don't have all the shampoo mess to deal with from a car wash concentrate...

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Well, if you dont have to brush them, then dont. Obviously using a brush on the pads will eventually cause premature wear on the pad. When I brush the purple foamed wool pads, I take a clump of fibers off the brush that was taken from the pad. This can only go on for so long before the pad is used up. Similar to foam pads, after a while, you'll probably notice the pads breaking up from being brushed.
Using a tool like the duo spur, you can place it on the pad and using the slowest setting, can turn the machine on. I typically use a moderately stiff bristled nylon brush and just do it by hand w/o the machine on. Enough to pull off some excess product, then just wipe if off. There isnt much too it really. I'll see if theres a tutorial I can find somewhere to help out. I always wash the pads immediately after use too.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you can. Like eyezack said, just make sure theres sufficient lubrication in the mixture. A heavy concentration will usually do it. I still think a dedicated clay lube like Luber does a better job, but using a soapy mixture is less expensive which is always nice

jfelbab

I've been cleaning my pads with some cotton towels. I fold the towels into a large square and apply it to the pad and turn on the buffer. I move the towel around the pad and it removes much of the excess. This equates to less pad changing while detailing. Once a pad gets over saturated with product it stops working.

This is for cleaning while detailing. Once finished with the project I dump the pads in the front loader with some TideHE and then put them into unsealed zip lock bags to air dry.

The use of the cotton towel for cleaning during the detail is easy on the pads and doesn't shorten their life.

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chris,

What pad should I use with the Red moose machine glaze? Orange ok? Or do I need to use a black?

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Yep, go with a black (or blue) pad for RMG

PEK

Chris, I just started using Zaino products (Z5, Z2 with ZFX) , although they yield amazing results on my cars but the swirls are still visible. I'm thinking of buying the UDM (instead of applying by hand), are there any other items that I need? I thought Z5 would have gotten rid of all the swirls but I was wrong.
Thanks,

Pek

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

I've read some threads on this topic in the past, but not seen anyone post success....

My wife's track car gets sandblasted with grit and other stuff all the time. I'm never going to save or protect the paint on the car, but I'd like not to replace the windshield which is pretty badly pitted and gets worse every track event.

Have you seen any glass polishes or products which (similar to what can be done with plast-x or similar products on headlights) will work on glass to improve visibility on rough-duty windows?

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Hey Pek,
I think you'll notice a huge difference when polishing w/ machine vs hand applying something like z5. The udm by itself includes a flexible backing plate, white polishing pad, backing plate tool and canvas carry bag. Since you're looking to do some swirl removal, I'd recommend at least an orange pad. This is your light cut pad that'll work on removing those swirls. Pair this pad with a compound like poorboys ssr2.5 or optimum compound. Then follow up w/ a white pad w/ either ssr1 or optimum polish. These are both very popular setups. Heres a couple links to check out

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/opuldemapa.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poudmpawfrit.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/uldemapadkit.html

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Is the glass really hammered? My concern w/ having to refinish heavy pitting on windshield glass is that it may result in some distortion to the glass as it can be tough to keep it level. Some minor stuff like light wiper arm tracks etc may polish out ok, but like I said, heavy glass correction could be tough.

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chris I got my order the other, but I noticed that the Red Moose Machine Glaze is like water. Is it supposed to be this thin? It also seperates very easy. I see about a half inch of liquid floating on top. Please let me know if it's supposed to be like this.

Thanks

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

yes, thats ok. Just shake it real well. RMG's consistency is pretty different than some products out there, but works like magic