pitmanr200

Im thinking of getting a udm or porter cable, but im really lost on what i need. I will just be trying to get rid of swirling on my blue gs 400. And maybe some small scuffs and scratches. Im trying to learn how to detail my self so i need some help on where to get started as for pads, compounds, pollishers and such. Also do I need clay bar and if so what kind. I was looking at the poor boys package but didnt know if that has everything i need. Also once i get the swirls out and pollish do i go back and hand wax and with what. I was thinking of the blue nattys wax, but i want something that will last and what all do i need in between details on the paint? sorry for all the ? , but I quess i need a good beginners setup.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

The poorboys package is a great option b/c it does include everything you would need from a compound/polishing aspect. (btw, udms are now manufactured by porter cable.) I'll come back to the claying part in a second, but after claying (should you choose to do so), you can jump into the ssr2.5 on the orange pad. This is the combo that will remove most of your defects. After this part, you can go to your ssr1 and white pad. This will remove any light hazing from the org/ssr2.5 and will give you the high gloss finish. Then you're all set to wax. You can do so by hand (w/ the nattys thats included), or, you can go a different route. If you're looking for a real durable wax, I would point you in the direction of Collinite. 915, 476 and 845 are all awesome waxes. 845 is liquid, so you can apply it by machine if you'd like. Just pick up a black pad to do so. 476 and 915 are paste waxes, and should be applied by hand. Another durable option is carnauba moose wax. Also liquid if you want to go that route. Then sit back and admire your work
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poudmpawfrit.html
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/cawaandgl.html

Now, as for claying. if you've owned the car for a while, and you havent clayed yet, I would definitely say its a good idea. It'll smooth the surface and prep it for polishing. Either the elastic clay or the gray 200g bar is what you would be looking at. They're essentially the same thing minus the size (110g vs 200g). Work small sections in back/forth motions and light/medium pressure using a dedicated clay lube. I really like LUBER, but you can use a heavier concentrated soap/water mixture if you'd like. Then just rewash the vehicle quickly to remove any residue left behind, dry, and you can begin to polish
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com...ubricants.html

Then, for maintenance, just make sure you have a good wash setup. A nice sheepskin wash mitt, grit guard and quality soap is the basics (along w/ a waffle weave drying towel of course). You can use a quick detailer after your routine washes to help keep up some gloss. I really like spray n gloss for this, but quickshine has some really nice slickness and qd+ is also nice. Heres a link to a wash kit and the quick detailers:
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/carwashkit.html
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com...ss-washes.html

pitmanr200

so is then natty's blue not a very long lasting wax. would the others you listed be alot better. hey and thanks for all the info. that really helped alot.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Nattys is like most carnaubas where you'll see probably 5-6 weeks out of it in the real world. There are some waxes out there that wont last that long though. Obviously if its garaged everyday and only gets driven on nice days, the wax will last longer. I just find that colliinte lasts longer by a few weeks before I'll reapply.

pitmanr200

ok. i understand. what is the longest lasting waxes? are they non carnaubas or something? and one other thing and i will leave you alone. what does a sealant do and do i need one and if so what kind?

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

no problem, I dont mind the questions
Some of the longest lasting waxes are definitely collinite waxes as I mentioned above. Non-carnaubas (aka: sealants), tend to outlast most carnauba waxes, however, they produce a bit of a different appearance. Carnaubas produce a deep, wet look. Sealants (polymer/synthetic), imo, produce more of a shine/gloss. You can lay down a base coat for a sealant for some durability, then top with a carnauba if you'd like. Sealants are not necessary by any means though. Just another option

pitmanr200

ok and as for pads. i will need some stuff for cleaning them and stuff right. what do you suggest and how often would i need to clean and change pads. i would just be using it for personal use. just to do mine and my wifes car a few times a year.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

To clean the pads, you can grab some CG pad cleaner/rejuvinator. http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/chgupopadclr.html
Once you're done w/ the car, try to clean them right after. This will keep them as fresh as possible. Pads will last quite a while when cared for. After cleaning them, allow them to air dry, then place in a plastic bag to help keep dust/debris off of them. The udm kit comes w/ one white and one orange pad. You might consider an extra org, wht and blk pad, just to have on hand. Its always good to have an extra imo

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chris,

I'm using a PC with an orange pad and Menzerna IP. It seems as though I can't remove a lot of scratches and swirls. Not only that, but I seem to have hazing on the paint. I see some spots are cloudy where some are glossier. I use the PC at speed 6 with the orange, and from my understanding that with IP should be pretty effective for correction. I'm also apply some good amount of pressure. Do you have any tips for me? Should I be following with a finer polish? From what I read IP doesnt really need to be followed up with a finer polish correct? I still haven't used the RMG that I got from you. I want to correct more of the paint before I use the RMG and P21S 100% nuba. Please let me know what I'm doing wrong or what I should be doing in addition.

Thanks

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Also how do I know if I'm working the IP correctly, allowing it to "break down"?

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

how much product u using on pad?? usually when it breaks down, u can barely see the product anymore.

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Hey joe

I make an X on the pad and basically work it till it looks like its gone.

RolxuSC400

I had something of a basic question on detailing. I want to bring my car to a detailer, I have identified them already, to get the car "back in shape" so I can maintain it. My concern is when I had bought my used truck part of the deal was a detail to "remove" the scuffs and minor scratches out of it only to have them reappear a bit later. I have a PC DA and gathering other supplies to do the regular maintenance but its at a stage beyond my abilities to bring back right now. I will be reviewing some of the threads on this post for tips.

My question: What should I be asking the detailer to do(its not the dealers crew BTW) to ensure after the next wash or rainfall the scuffs/scratches do not reappear? The truck looked brand new for like 3 days...then the swirls, spiderwebs,halo's and scratches started showing up.

Sorry if this has been asked a hundred times already but I didnt see it in this post. Thanks in advance.

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like the detailer did not actually correct the paint but actually used a filler to cover them up, which is why they will reappear after a wash...After you thoroughly polish the paint, you will not see those swirls/scruffs come back....

RolxuSC400

So basically they just waxed it with a buffer...now the marks are still there and they are white and I use the ScratchX and other "stuff" I have and they disappear once again until it rains and they are back. What should I be using then to avoid this problem in the future especially the residue being left there?