Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

I'm not very familiar w/ the menz lineup since I dont use it personally. The guy who works w/ me uses it on occasion, so I will certainly get his input for you. I would still recommend following up after the orange pad though. Even on tough Audi paint, I finish with a white pad. The orange pad is what may be causing some of the hazing that you're seeing. usually its more present w/ a stronger compound paired with it, but I wouldnt rule it out as the culprit. You dont necessarily have to switch product either, just pads.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

thats what it sounds like to me too. This is common practice among some "detail" shops. They use glaze/oil/filler heavy products that make the finish look awesome, but all its doing is hiding the real problem.

When you bring it to the new detailer, you can ask/request that he uses polishes that contain no (ie: very minimal) fillers. If he doesnt have any, you can request that he does an IPA wipedown after polishing to remove any oils, thus revealing what defects have been removed and what remains. Ask what products/tools he's using to remove them. Removing the swirls is the only way to ensure they dont reappear after the car is washed or after being in some rainy weather. Obviously, make sure you're using clean wash mitts/drying towels so that you're not reintroducing them back into the paint too. Usually if they can remove 90%+ of the problems, thats a good job.

RolxuSC400

Thanks guys for the reply. I will ensure I hold the new guy to these standards or at least ask the right questions ahead of time.

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Most likely he is applying too much pressure to the pad Chris

Taeng, use a sharpie and put 4 lines on your PC backing plate. The PC has to spin a little to correct at fullest strength, otherwise its just stationary due to the extreme pressure you may have put on it. Also, assuming that you are doing a Lexus it should be fine. We have soft clear coats for some reason. Make sure you are using enough pressure to keep it spinning and that the pad is primed well. If a pad isn't primed that great it causes hazing. Also, sometimes orange+IP does cause hazing so its always recommended to go over with a final polish and a white pad. That way your paint has the maximum clarity it can get. Hope this helps

taeng

iTrader: (1)

I apply a good amount of pressure, but never enough to bog it down. I have a black 2000 so there isn't any clear on mine. What does "primed" mean? Also could I just use a white pad with the IP or do I have to buy a final polish?

Thanks

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, I have never worked on a non clearcoated paint before...I'm guessing it reacts differently than one with Clear on it...

Priming the pad is usually done if its a dry pad or a new one. I usually put a light X of polish on the pad. Then after that I just do 3 dots on the edge. Usually by then the pad is well lubricated and might lower the chance of hazing. Are you breaking the polish down enough? I usually do it until its almost clear on any car I'm working on. If it is worked in too short it wont do much but if it is worked in too long it might cause hazing. I had that problem on my friends Jet Black BMW I was working on.

If it doesn't seem to be working, I find that Prima Swirl or #83 has a bit more cut in it than IP does. That and they seem to work longer as well. Also, if you go to 4in pads, it cuts faster (and more than with a 6.5" pad) and doesn't bog down at all. I have been using that on super annoying paints lately. Takes a little longer to finish the car but with that 4in orange and IP, it seems to work a lot better. That is also another alternative you can try

To be honest, I have never used IP with a white pad to remove the hazing. Test it out, it might remove it. You never know man

taeng

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'm gonna pick up some 4inch pads. Also what does using a sharpie and making an X on my backing plate do? Could you describe this a little more throughly.

Thanks

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

It lets you know that the pad/backing plate is still rotating. The pad has to spin a little in order to correct, otherwise its pretty much stationary and doesn't correct. If you need a pic of what I did let me know. It may just take awhile due to the fact that my stuff is not with me ATM

rubyred08

hi chris and thanks for all your knowledge! What would you recomend for a ruby red es very first wash/wax the day I bring it home from the dealer? thanks again

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on the new car
For washing, you have a few options. Super Slick n Suds, Optimum Car Wash, Chemical Guys Citrus Wash n Gloss and P21s Bodywork Shampoo are all great soaps. You really cant go wrong with any of those. The Poorboys and Optimum are larger bottles fwiw.
A sheepskin wash mitt is also a good idea if you dont already have one. THey hold a lot of water, are super soft and release dirt well.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/exshbure.html
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/shwami.html
I would also suggest picking up a grit guard for your bucket. These are great little devices that really are effective at keeping dirt from being reintroduced to your wash mitt when you put it in the bucket.
Finally, a nice microfiber waffle weave drying towel.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com...-drying-t.html

You have a ton of options for wax
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/cawaandgl.html
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/paandwhse.html
Something like Poorboys Nattys Blue is a great value. Super easy to use and looks great. Chemical Guys Petes53 has a very high carnauba content and looks awesome. 5050 looks outstanding imo and has some nice durability. On the same note, p21s also looks great, but doesnt have the durability of 5050 or something like collinite 915 or 476. If the car is going to stay outside, 476 or 915 should be considered, as should a sealant like EX, Jetseal (nice slick fell too!), or M/F seal.
Hows that for options, lol.

jake720

Hey Chris I had a couple of questions for you. I just picked up a 2005 GX 470 Blue Meridian Pearl (dark blue) and it is in desperate need of a good detailing. Anyways I am pretty new to all of this so I just want to make sure I have all of the steps right. Also on the chrome trim there is a lot of what looks to be rust or hard water spots that I cannot remove, even with chrome polish. Do you have any suggestions? Also from reading on autopia it seems like the flex machine blows the PC out of the water is that true? So I am looking at claying, compounding, polishing, sealing, and waxing does that sound right? Oh and one more question how do you get those cool looking lines on the carpet after it has been profesionally cleaned?


Thanks for your help!

Jake

-Future-

Hey Chris,
I been wanting to learn to do my own detail but time is very limited right now. I live in NJ as well and wanted to know what you charge for a full detail, my GS is pretty clean (not like that BMW x5 you showed!), but I would like to have my paint polished and corrected so it can be at it's very best.

Thanks!

PEK

HI Chris,
I received the UDM, polishes & wax 2 weeks ago and used them right away on my cars. The results were so amazing, made me fall in love with the cars again. The problem that I came across using OA is the vibration when I set the speed to 6, it vibrated so strong. Did I do something wrong?

Thanks,

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Hey Jake,
The steps youre looking to take are correct. You might consider rewashing after claying to remove the clay residue. I rewash, some just use a quick detailer. .. up to you really. The flex is a great machine, but obviously comes at a cost at well over 100.00 more for the machine alone. It really depends on a few things. How often do you plan to use it? 1 or 2x a year or more? Basically, you have to figure out if its worth the extra cost for you. I have just about one of every machine (pc/udm/flex/rotary/etc etc). My one complaint with the Flex was that the dust ring/plastic back of backing plate has started to melt and shed some plastic pieces It Initially started to smoke and thought I fried it, but I guess you just cant push down on that machine at all. (I was working on a roof when it happened, so I couldnt have applied much pressure really). I shaved down the plate and flipped the dust ring over and its not so bad any more, however, I'm still weary about it. (just lazy about sending it in for warranty, ) The one complaint from some people about the UDM/PC is the vibration at high speeds. Certainly can be annoying. Like I said, you really have to take a look at the pros and cons of each machine, then factor in the cost of each, how often you'll really use it, then make a decision based on that.
As for the carpet lines, simply use a nice carpet/upholstery brush and run it in opposing directions next to each other. Its just a matter of standing up the fibers going one way, and laying them down when going the other

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Really depends on the severity of it and how easily its corrected. Its based on an hourly rate, so can range anywhere from low 2's to high 3s. I do my best to keep the costs down though. Give me a call or shoot me a pm and we'll set something up. I do have a couple days available next week if you're interested.