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Old 08-26-08, 03:04 PM
  #61  
Chris@GlimmerGlass
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Originally Posted by PEK
HI Chris,
I received the UDM, polishes & wax 2 weeks ago and used them right away on my cars. The results were so amazing, made me fall in love with the cars again. The problem that I came across using OA is the vibration when I set the speed to 6, it vibrated so strong. Did I do something wrong?

Thanks,
awesome! I'm glad you're happy with the results I get tons of positive feedback from customers after using that same combo The vibration is the one downside unfortunately. Thankfully its only temporary and you soon forget it once you sit back and look at the finish on the car
Old 08-30-08, 12:34 AM
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How do you remove little scratches and what wax do you guys use to make your car look brand new or clean?
Old 08-30-08, 04:58 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by aids
id like to pick up a pc but im a little confused about the pads and such. the only thing i know is that 4 inch pads seems to work better. but i dont know what colors i need and what polish is good to use.
The pads work like this: Yellow = Heavy Cut, Orange = light Cut, Green = Heavy Polish, White = Polishing, Black = Finishing, Blue = Finessing.

Most use the orange and white combo for polishing. I would suggest picking up this package, which will include some 6.5" pads, along with a couple 4" pads along with the required 3.5" backing plate necessary to run the 4" pads. Then, if you'd like to add in some 4" pads, you can find them in the 2nd link.

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/uldemapadkit.html
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

I find that the ssr line of polishes works very well via pc. Optimum did just reformulate their polish though, so this may be of interest to you. I use both exclusively and always achieve great results.
With the ssr's, the most common combo is to use ssr2.5 on an orange pad, then ssr1 on a white pad.
With Optimum, it would be Optimum Compound on an orange pad, followed by Polish on a white pad.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html
Old 08-30-08, 05:03 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by yayitscola
How do you remove little scratches and what wax do you guys use to make your car look brand new or clean?
It depends how bad the scratches are. For very light imperfections, something like p21s paintwork cleanser may be enough. Or, for mild scratches, you can use something like polish with carnauba (regular or blue), polish w/ sealant, or poliseal. Both work well by hand. For something a little stronger, ssr2 is what I would suggest if working by hand. Follow that up with one of the above, polish w/ carnauba or poliseal, etc.

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html

For a wax, you have a ton of options. What color car are you working with?
Old 08-30-08, 05:05 AM
  #65  
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Just saw your sig. For dark colors, you can do something like Nattys Blue paste wax, Collinite 915 or 476, Victoria Wax, P21s 100%, Chemical Guys 5050 or Petes53. All will look great.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/cawaandgl.html
Heres a nice shot of Chemical Guys 5050 on a Black Titan that I just worked on the other day.
Old 08-30-08, 12:53 PM
  #66  
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Hey Chris, I'm debating between P21S normal and 100%. If you had experience with them both, which one is for the win? I'm usually doing light metallic colored cars with the handful of Black BMWs in between
Old 08-30-08, 12:59 PM
  #67  
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Interesting thread, I wondered if you had any follow up to the question Dave asked a few pages back on polishing glass. Is there anything that can give any (even slight) degree of correction or clearing up? Maybe even just a deeper cleaning than glass cleaner (I've been using Stoner Invisible Glass)?
Old 08-30-08, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@GlimmerGlass
It depends how bad the scratches are. For very light imperfections, something like p21s paintwork cleanser may be enough. Or, for mild scratches, you can use something like polish with carnauba (regular or blue), polish w/ sealant, or poliseal. Both work well by hand. For something a little stronger, ssr2 is what I would suggest if working by hand. Follow that up with one of the above, polish w/ carnauba or poliseal, etc.

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html

For a wax, you have a ton of options. What color car are you working with?

SGMand does glimmerglass sell all that stuff you are talking about? Thanks for responding!
Old 08-31-08, 04:21 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by eyezack87
Hey Chris, I'm debating between P21S normal and 100%. If you had experience with them both, which one is for the win? I'm usually doing light metallic colored cars with the handful of Black BMWs in between
I've used the s100 version of the regular p21s, so close enough hopefully Imo, I think the 100% has some better clarity. application/removal is about the same. No significant difference between the two imo. Durability is the same really. Most of the guys I've seen are switching to the 100%. Maybe thats b/c its the newer version, but it is developing a great reputation. Did you see the writeup on the 100% I posted about? That might help. It gives some comparisons against other botique waxes.
Old 08-31-08, 04:36 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Kyle Harty
Interesting thread, I wondered if you had any follow up to the question Dave asked a few pages back on polishing glass. Is there anything that can give any (even slight) degree of correction or clearing up? Maybe even just a deeper cleaning than glass cleaner (I've been using Stoner Invisible Glass)?
Do you have a machine to use? There are glass polishing pads available if so. You can use it in conjunction with a variety of products from all in one type polishes, to "glass" specific polishes like autoglym, etc. As you mentioned, doing this is more for a deeper clean than correcting scratches. If theres deep defects that you need removed, I always suggest looking into replacing the glass. Polishing and refinishing glass when theres deep defects to remove, make it tough to keep the glass flat without getting distortion in the glass.
Remember, you can also clay glass. So if you have a clay bar laying around, give that a try first. It may clean the glass to your liking. Just follow with stoners and a nice microfiber glass towel
I've been testing out another glass system and will report back soon
Old 08-31-08, 04:38 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by aids
is it necessary to do an orange pass and then a white? what if u used the orange pad with ssr1.
It depends on the hardness of the paint. I've worked on some cars where I could use an orange pad and an all-in-one product and it was just fine. However, on softer clears, the orange pad can cause some slight hazing, in which case following with a white or even black pad, can clean it up and finish it off
Old 08-31-08, 04:44 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by yayitscola
SGMand does glimmerglass sell all that stuff you are talking about? Thanks for responding!
yep! You can grab those products in the link provided. It contains the products mentioned in that post.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html
For SGM, I'd say to do polish w/ carnauba blue, vanilla moose hand wax glaze or the p21s paintwork cleanser.
Then just top with your choice of waxes. I gave some recommendations on what I think would look good on SGM above (the post w/ the black quarter panel).
Old 08-31-08, 10:34 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Chris@GlimmerGlass
I've used the s100 version of the regular p21s, so close enough hopefully Imo, I think the 100% has some better clarity. application/removal is about the same. No significant difference between the two imo. Durability is the same really. Most of the guys I've seen are switching to the 100%. Maybe thats b/c its the newer version, but it is developing a great reputation. Did you see the writeup on the 100% I posted about? That might help. It gives some comparisons against other botique waxes.
Cool, thanks man. I was going to order Collonite 476 and P21S wax but I guess I'll stick with concours if they're pretty similar. I have enough light waxes so I need some dark ones too, especially since I've been detailing black BMWs lately

Is this a pretty good lineup of waxes in your opinion?
-NXT 2.0
-Zymol Creme
-Rubbish Boys OE Edition
-P21S Concours
-Collonite 476

I may be ordering some Dodo Juice SN 1.0 or 2.0 or Swissvax BOS soon though
Old 09-01-08, 04:34 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by aids
what type of paint does a 2008 obsidian is350 have? id like to be able to do everything in one pass if possible...otherwise no big deal. is there an all in one product you would recommend or am i best going with 2 passes for this car
Lexus is pretty average. In my experience, its not a very hard clear in comparison. Whether or not you should do more than 1 pass will be determined a lot by how many defects the paint has.
Heres some options:
If you'd like to do one pass, I'd say to just do something like Polish w/ Carnauba Blue on a white pad. It'll do some very minor correction and give you some protection at the same time.
You can do ssr1 on a white pad, then wax/seal, seperately.
You can do ssr2 or 2.5 on an orange pad (using both on an orange pad, ssr2 is a slightly less agressive combo), follow with ssr1 on a white pad, then finish w/ your sealant or wax.
Old 09-01-08, 04:36 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by eyezack87
Cool, thanks man. I was going to order Collonite 476 and P21S wax but I guess I'll stick with concours if they're pretty similar. I have enough light waxes so I need some dark ones too, especially since I've been detailing black BMWs lately

Is this a pretty good lineup of waxes in your opinion?
-NXT 2.0
-Zymol Creme
-Rubbish Boys OE Edition
-P21S Concours
-Collonite 476

I may be ordering some Dodo Juice SN 1.0 or 2.0 or Swissvax BOS soon though
Thats all I ever seem to do too, is black cars, lol. You have a good selection of waxes imo, covering a lot of areas, so it'll give you some options to offer customers. The dodo juice does look interesting. I need to talk to Todd about that stuff!


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