luxury1

I have been reading a lot of posts about the automatic buffers and want to summarize to make sure that I understand it correctly.

I wax my cars 3-4 times a year but do it by hand. I understand that the machine will do a much better job and remove many of the swirl marks that are present on my paint.

I have never used a buffer before but from reading it sounds like the Ultimate Detailing Machine (or UDM) can be safely used by just about anyone.

Is all of this correct?

Also, if the Ultimate Detailing Machine is the best way to go, where would be the cheapest place to get one?

Finally, someone mentioned the Porter Cable DA Polisher, is this any better or worse than the UDM???

Thanks!

SpecC

i don't know anything about dual action polishers, but from what you understand, here's what I can tell you.

Yes your buffers can remove swirl marks but with certain product/pad combination. That's more reading for you to do haha

the UDM and PC7424 are the most popular choices by far for dual action polishers in that price range. They do have a LOT of trouble doing paint correction though. If you want some more powerful and still dual action, get the Flex 3401.

Now the other type of polisher is the rotary polisher. It can burn paint and many people will tell you to get something else, but I started out with this and I turned out fine with paint correction and stuff. This is more reading too!

As for applying wax, it's not a big deal. The machine will spread it more evenly, but it's not going to be a huge difference in shine.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

You're correct with regard to the safety of using the udm. It is a random orbital and mimics a hand motion when it comes to waxing/polishing. It is basically the same machine as the porter cable, just that it has slightly more power. Its the perfect machine for those who maintain their vehicles every few months.

To clarify though. Waxing by machine wont remove your swirls. You would need to use a polish and different pad for this type of work. How many swirls you want to remove would depend how you go about it. If you're just looking to improve the gloss and remove a couple minor swirls, simply polishing w/ a light polish on a white polishing pad would be enough. To do more correction, you'd want to jump to an orange light cut pad and a light compound.

You can still wax by machine using either a lake country black or blue pad. Waxing by machine is nice b/c its pretty easy to keep a nice thin coat across the vehicle and can speed up the whole process. I'm not sure if buying a udm just for waxing would be worth it though since you dont save too much time in just the wax portion of the process. The real time savers comes when you're polishing imo.

We have the UDM available on its own, or packaged with some great products. You can certainly apply your forum discount to the purchase, bringing the cost down significantly

Heres a couple links for you to check out:

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/stpawiuldepa.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poudmpawfrit.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/opuldemapa.html

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/uldemapadkit.html

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

btw, heres a link to the user guide for you to review

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-.../udm-guide.pdf

luxury1

Thanks guys! It really is amazing how much there is to know about this but from what I read, the difference between hand waxing and machine buffing is night and day. Would you guys say that this is true?

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

100% true

First time I used a machine I wondered what the hell I was ever thinking doing it by hand

luxury1

What is the difference between waxing and polishing? Is polishing just the process of going over the wax to leaving a nice shiny finish?

Also, is the Porter Cable PC7424 and UDM pretty much identical? Any reason to choose one over the other?

UDel

They are not identical but similar. UDM has a slightly larger motor or provides a little more power but there have been alot of issues with UDMs and the quality is not as high as the PC7424. The slightly more power makes little to no difference in correcting/buffing over the PC but the iffy reliability of many UDMs is a bigger concern to many . If you go to autopia.org you can find some more information. I have a PC and have been very pleased and you can tell it is a solid piece of equipment. I got my PC from I believe some tool supply store for $99.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

The difference is that polishing usually involves an abrasive product or chemical cleaner to burnish the finish, creating a high gloss. This is done prior to any waxing or sealing.

UDM's are now made by Porter Cable, so you are getting the same machine. The porter cable 7424 is of course serviceable at your local porter cable outlet store should you ever need their assistance And I would say to choose the PC b/c well, i sell those now as opposed to the udm's, lol.

luxury1

Thanks guys!

Johnny

Which makes it a little bit more dangerous in the wrong hands.

The important thing luxury1 is to start at slower speeds until you develop a feel for that power. Applied pressure is another critical factor, and where a lot of burning can occur, especially on edges and peaks as pressure concentrates in these areas - 5 lbs. to just floating are the norm (use a bathroom scale to get an idea of applied weight). Remember that speed at the edge of the buffer pad is where the speed is fastest, and most critical. And... start with a clean and clayed surface, or else you'll just grind more swirls into the finish. Finally, be sure to mask your work area with painter's masking tape - the colored easy release tape, so your overlaps don't migrate onto other surfaces like rubber trim or glass.

Check this video out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZVDsiEQ8-w

UberNoob

get the Flex 3401!!!!
it owns everything else

some people even prefer it over makita polisher for certain types of work!!

Johnny

The Flex is a fine machine, and is great for difficult restorations, but $265 vs $109 for the PC is over the top imho, especially if the task is for a relatively new car.

UberNoob

true
esp the LS460/600hl dont need much correction at all since it gets hand painted and wet sanded at the factory

but i thought that since he said he has many swirl marks and 3 cars to take care of, Flex would be a better investment in the long run

luxury1

That you tube link was especially useful! I think I understand this process much better now.

It is true, I am doing three cars. I think I am going to start with the RX330 since that needs the most work.

Thanks again!