MrG4Life

iTrader: (14)

So today at work my co-worker with his Dodge Neon SRT comes back from a day off mouthing a bit on how clean his car is. Even going on to say how better looking it is than mine. I'm like the only at the office who keeps there car very clean. So he says that he had it detailed by a buddy of his. I didn't even ask what products was used to do the work because I and others thought I'd be wasting my breath on him. Well anyway it was enough for me to remember that I want the PC. There's no doubt at all I'm getting one but it's what products to use with it to remove the typical swirls and water spots. My car is black and has been treated nicely with all Meguiar's products which includes the NXT wash and NXT 2.0 wax. I've searched the forum and see that there's a lot of products on the market. Was wondering if using the NXT is good enough with the PC or should I use another product. For dark colored cars, I think Poor Boys and Pennacle was mentioned as being good. And with the PC, what's the deal with this backing plate? Does it come with one or do I get it separately? I already know that more than two pads I will need. Thoughts and links to posts that I may have missed on this subject would be appreciated!

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

Going w/ a udm/pc is a decision you wont regret It makes detailing sooo much easier! fwiw, udm's are now manufactured by porter cable co. The units are sold complete with a flexible backing plate, white polishing pad and backing plate tool. If interested, I have them bundled with poorboys products like you mentioned. For swirl removal, ssr2.5 on an orange pad is a very popular combo to start with. Once youre done w/ that, go to ssr1 on a white pad to finish it off. Then top with Nattys Blue (for dark vehicles).
Heres a link to the package deal I'm referring to:
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poudmpawfrit.html

UDM/Pad page:
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

If interested in a glaze like poorboys black hole, ez creme or red moose machine glaze, you can find them here. (glaze would be applied after ssr1 but before nattys blue)
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/cawaandgl.html

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

If your going to run a high speed buffer just be VERY careful at first till you get the hang of it. You need to be very aware of where the disc is, for example, if your buffing the top of the door under the mirror and the edge of the pad hits the bottom of the mirror it will zip the paint off in about a quarter of a second, don't ask me how I know that.
Second, black shows EVERYTHING as we both know as owners of black cars. Just go nice and easy the first few times with light pressure. Personally I have had the best results using 3M foam pads, some people like wool but that is VERY aggressive. FWIW- I have a Snap-On buffer and it didn't come with the backing plate for 3M Perfect-it pads. I had to buy the backing plate (I think it was around $40) but then you can just switch pads for different products (you only want to use one product for each pad) in 2 seconds since it's velcro. Hope that helps a little, nothing like a clean black car

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

MrG4Life, if you're really wanting to detail, a PC is a good start, but if you are a quick learner, get yourself a rotary instead. Yes there are certain risks, hence why you practice on a junk'ed car panel instead. Once you prefect it, you'll be able to detail your car quicker with better results. It's not hard to use a rotary as long as you remember a few things. If you dont have the patience to learn, then a PC will suit you.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

I would disagree about getting a rotary in place of a DA machine at first. A rotary is definitely a great tool, but down the road, after you've done some work w/ an easier tool. The machines compliment each other well too. A lot of guys actually do heavy correction w/ a rotary, but will still do a finishing polish w/ a DA (dual action, ie: udm/pc). Pad hop, burn through, holograms, etc are hard to avoid for first time rotary users imo. I just dont think the learning curve is that easy for most people. For someone who is going to detail their car a couple times a year, wants a great finish, but doesnt want to have to worry about damaging their paint, a DA machine is perfect. Theres definitely a place in the detail cabinet for both machines, but imo, the DA is the place to start, then go up from there. Thats just my .02 though

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

It's fine to disagree. Perhaps I'm around gifted people or something but I have always been able to let someone borrow my rotary, give them guidelines, and they've been able to polish without pads hopping, paint burning, etc. Heck, I was able to get my little sister (12 years of age) to detail my hood without halograms the first time she tried it. She only stopped there because the rotary was getting too heavy for her. Practice is the key no matter what tool you're using. I just happen to skip all the beginning and intermediate steps and jump straight to the big one. It's cheaper and easier for me in the end. And I agree..if you only detail once every season, a DA should be sufficient.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

If you have the opportunity to use both the rotary and the random orbital it is a great combo. The rotary is great for lots of correction while the RO is good for correcting little spots without worrying about taping everything off. Personally I prefer using a rotary over the PC/UDM for 2 reasons; the rotary vibrates much less and doesn't require as many pads during a detail. I don't know how all the PC/UDM guys do their details, but for me it takes quite a bit of time, and I go through so many polishing pads at the end of the day that I always try to sucker someone else into doing clean up.

wheels 2

iTrader: (1)

i don't know about yawl but i bought the makita buffer da*n that thing works so good i will try to post before and after pics of my mk4 and its black.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Tell me about it! The pads last longer when I'm using the rotary than the PC.

Like I said, it's not hard to use a rotary. It just takes practice to perfect it, and it doesn't take years as most people exaggerate. Couple of tries and you'll get the hang of it.

About the vibration, the only way I can use a PC/UDM again is if I have some those gloves made to isolate vibration. Without using some sort of gloves, the vibrating action can be very dangerous to your nerves in your hand.

wheels 2

iTrader: (1)

MrG4Life

iTrader: (14)

GSTEG, you detail right? I think it was you in another thread that I responded to about doing detailing work. If not then I guess it was another member.


One of the other reasons why I want to use the PC and another product is to remove water marks that I got a month back while I was on vacation. Using NXT 2.0 wax and the ultimate detailer was not enough in getting rid of them.

wheels 2

iTrader: (1)

humm that sounds good

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I detail, but I dont remember if you've talked to me about it or not. I get lots of people asking me about everything. I lose track eventually.

Anyways, before you spend money on equipments that you may not need, you should try mixing vinegar and water in a spray bottle first. Many people use this method to break down the hard water deposit on their paint/windshield, etc. I've done it before and it works. Detailing sprays are not made to remove water spots..and certainly not wax.

wheels 2

iTrader: (1)

wow i didn't know that.

jfelbab

I have owned both the PC (7336) and a rotary (7228) for over 12 years. Both have their uses but unless there is major correction needed, I grab the PC as it always seems to finish up better for me and is an easier tool to handle.

As to pads, I seldom need more than 2-4 pads to polish a vehicle with the PC. I clean the pad after each panel or two by running the pad up against a cotton towel to remove excess polish and oils. I would suggest a couple polishing pads and a couple finishing pads for starters. I prefer Meguiars Softbuff pads or Lake Country pads.

I'd say I use my PC about 80-90% of the time and seldom need the rotary but most of the vehicles I detail are relative new or free of serious defects. If I had to make a choice I'd go with the PC over the rotary.

The PC (7336/7424) needs a flexible backing plate. If you go with a PC buy a high quality backing plate as a cheap one may fail while you are using it and could result in paint damage. The G110 and UDM both come with a flexible backing plate. You can achieve the same results with any of the three tools.

I'd also recommend an aggressive polish and a finishing polish. The products Chris suggested are good. My personal favorites have been Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner/Polish #83 and Speed Glaze #80, but I've been hearing a lot of good things about their new Ultra Cut Compound #105. This is reportedly more aggressive than #83 and finishes up as well as #80 so you might only need this one product. I have not personally used this yet so this opinion is just stuff I've gleaned from the forums.

The PC (read any of these three DA polishers) will deliver results you simply cannot get by hand. I consider the PC as the single best investment I have ever made in car care tools.