600 grit sand paper too abrasive?
11-07-08, 12:09 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
600 grit sand paper too abrasive?
I was wondering if 600 grit sand paper it too abrasive for some wet sanding. I went to Home Depot and that was the finest grit I could find; I've read of people using up to 3000 grit so I am a little concerned about using something like 600 grit. Anyway, thanks in advance.
11-07-08, 06:14 AM
#5
Ummm. The question you ask indicates that maybe you should not be wet sanding at all OMVHO. You hit the paint with 600 and you will cut through your clear coat in a blink of an eye.
Your factory paint is really, really thin to begin with. Paper thin, and if you remove more than a few mils of CC you will have shortened the life of the paint which will lead to early paint failure. I'd never wet sand a car without a paint thickness gauge either.
If you really want to do this, why not leave it to a seasoned pro or at least go purchase a junked hood and practice on it first. If you cut through or compromise your clear coat you are looking at a very costly re-spray. Most of the UV protection provided by a CC is near the surface so removal of much will cause faster aging.
I'd suggest that if you are still committed to this idea you visit a Paint and Body Shop Supply place and buy your papers. Home Depot is not such a place. See if you can rent a paint thickness gauge there as well. You should also consider what you are going to use to polish out the sanding marks. I assume you already have a rotary and some aggressive pads, compounds and polishes for this task?
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Your factory paint is really, really thin to begin with. Paper thin, and if you remove more than a few mils of CC you will have shortened the life of the paint which will lead to early paint failure. I'd never wet sand a car without a paint thickness gauge either.
If you really want to do this, why not leave it to a seasoned pro or at least go purchase a junked hood and practice on it first. If you cut through or compromise your clear coat you are looking at a very costly re-spray. Most of the UV protection provided by a CC is near the surface so removal of much will cause faster aging.
I'd suggest that if you are still committed to this idea you visit a Paint and Body Shop Supply place and buy your papers. Home Depot is not such a place. See if you can rent a paint thickness gauge there as well. You should also consider what you are going to use to polish out the sanding marks. I assume you already have a rotary and some aggressive pads, compounds and polishes for this task?
Good luck with whatever you decide.
11-07-08, 01:54 PM
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. I'll go look elsewhere for a higher grit sand paper.
The fact that I know so little about this process makes it intriguing to me and I want to learn to how to do little touch up jobs (rock chips, minor scratches, etc).
I have a beater that I am going to experiment on in small areas where it has scratches and some rock chips (need to get some touch up paint as well). So I do have something to work on that I wouldnt care too much about ruining the paint or clear coat. I'll just be sure to start with the least noticeable areas first!
As for tools, I have or have access to most everything I think I will need; I have access to an orbital buffer and a drill if I go with those pads that into onto a drill though I am guessing the orbital buffer is the way to go? The compounds and polishes I am still doing research on; right now I am in the stage of gathering info and materials. I tend to like to know what I am getting into before I start something.
The fact that I know so little about this process makes it intriguing to me and I want to learn to how to do little touch up jobs (rock chips, minor scratches, etc).
I have a beater that I am going to experiment on in small areas where it has scratches and some rock chips (need to get some touch up paint as well). So I do have something to work on that I wouldnt care too much about ruining the paint or clear coat. I'll just be sure to start with the least noticeable areas first!
As for tools, I have or have access to most everything I think I will need; I have access to an orbital buffer and a drill if I go with those pads that into onto a drill though I am guessing the orbital buffer is the way to go? The compounds and polishes I am still doing research on; right now I am in the stage of gathering info and materials. I tend to like to know what I am getting into before I start something.
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11-07-08, 09:58 PM
#8
Pole Position
An rotary buffer is fine, but not for a beginner; they require a lot of skill to prevent "accidents".
"Random" orbital buffers are much more forgiving.
Experts swear they get better results with the former, but are actually applying the "random" motion manually.
"Random" orbital buffers are much more forgiving.
Experts swear they get better results with the former, but are actually applying the "random" motion manually.
Last edited by Johnny; 11-08-08 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Typo, thanks jfelbab
11-08-08, 07:45 AM
#9
Some terminology definitions and suggestions.
Orbital Buffers: These usually are the inexpensive things (<$50) found at Sears automotive or some other auto stores. They typically have only enough power to apply and remove wax. They are lacking in pad options and just don't have the guts for serious paint correction.
DA Buffers: These "dual action" buffers spin and oscillate. Some good examples are the Porter-Cable 7424 or 7336, the Ultimate Detailing Machine (UDM) or the G110 from Meguiar's. They mimic the motion of hand application and have the guts to do light to moderate paint correction. They are quite safe on the finish even when used by a novice.
Rotary Buffer: These devices spin (rotate) only and have a lot of power. They are the tool of choice for serious paint correction and for removing sanding marks after wet sanding. They require much more skill to use and a novice could easily damage the paint beyond repair with one of these. Rotary buffers require a skill level that a novice can't pick up in a only a few minutes.
As to the first type of buffer, the inexpensive Orbital... save your money. They have few pad options and lack the power needed for paint correction
The DA is one of the most often used tools in my arsenol. For most paint correction, swirls and minor marring, this is my tool of choice. There are a huge number of pads and polish combinations available for these that make short work of most minor paint correction. Yet this tool is not designed for, nor is it suitable for, removing sanding marks.
The Rotary is the workhorse for heavy lifting. This is the tool of choice for major paint correction. This tool takes a lot of skill to use properly and delivers results quickly. In inexperienced, hands this tool can cause more damage than it corrects. Most often, burning through the clear coat, holograms and buffer trails result.
I own both the PC (Porter-Cable DA) and the Makita 9227c rotary. The PC is my most often used tool. I love the rotary but I just like the performance of the PC. Most of the detailing I do is on cars in relatively good condition. The PC removes a lot less paint and is much more tolerant of operator error.
Orbital Buffers: These usually are the inexpensive things (<$50) found at Sears automotive or some other auto stores. They typically have only enough power to apply and remove wax. They are lacking in pad options and just don't have the guts for serious paint correction.
DA Buffers: These "dual action" buffers spin and oscillate. Some good examples are the Porter-Cable 7424 or 7336, the Ultimate Detailing Machine (UDM) or the G110 from Meguiar's. They mimic the motion of hand application and have the guts to do light to moderate paint correction. They are quite safe on the finish even when used by a novice.
Rotary Buffer: These devices spin (rotate) only and have a lot of power. They are the tool of choice for serious paint correction and for removing sanding marks after wet sanding. They require much more skill to use and a novice could easily damage the paint beyond repair with one of these. Rotary buffers require a skill level that a novice can't pick up in a only a few minutes.
As to the first type of buffer, the inexpensive Orbital... save your money. They have few pad options and lack the power needed for paint correction
The DA is one of the most often used tools in my arsenol. For most paint correction, swirls and minor marring, this is my tool of choice. There are a huge number of pads and polish combinations available for these that make short work of most minor paint correction. Yet this tool is not designed for, nor is it suitable for, removing sanding marks.
The Rotary is the workhorse for heavy lifting. This is the tool of choice for major paint correction. This tool takes a lot of skill to use properly and delivers results quickly. In inexperienced, hands this tool can cause more damage than it corrects. Most often, burning through the clear coat, holograms and buffer trails result.
I own both the PC (Porter-Cable DA) and the Makita 9227c rotary. The PC is my most often used tool. I love the rotary but I just like the performance of the PC. Most of the detailing I do is on cars in relatively good condition. The PC removes a lot less paint and is much more tolerant of operator error.
11-08-08, 12:44 PM
#10
The DA is one of the most often used tools in my arsenol. For most paint correction, swirls and minor marring, this is my tool of choice. There are a huge number of pads and polish combinations available for these that make short work of most minor paint correction. Yet this tool is not designed for, nor is it suitable for, removing sanding marks.
I used 2000-3000gritt and got rid of it with my PC + 4in Orange LC pad + Menzerna Powergloss. That left minor micromarring but it was taken care of using the rest of the Menz line
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