Stage3

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys, here is an open mind for you to mold with what works best. I am a newb when it comes to detailing and need to know the basics for getting my paint to look better than it does now. I am not a TOTAL newbie when it comes to car care and I take the proper steps to make sure that the products I use on my paint won't make it worse than it may be. But, as of right now, I'm at my wits end when it comes to the finish of the paint. There is oxidation, swirls, bird poo etchings, scratches, etc. It's not from lack of care, but just lack of knowhow on how to make the situation any better. I have tried to use the elbow grease methods to get my paint to look better and sadly, it seems like a temporary fix. It makes the paint "shine" in the sun but under close inspection, the paint needs a lot of help. I have debated just getting the bad areas of the car repainted (still going to repaint certain areas that need them), but repainting something that can be fixed with a good detail is not really wise.

So, I come to you with an open mind. What do I need to do bring the life back to my paint? I have read numerous threads on the detailing forum and feel like I have good heading, but no CLEAR direction. I know I need to get my hands on a good power buffer/polisher/sander (Portercable or Makita), then where do I go from there? I was looking at buying the starter kit at Glimmerglass.com, but am not sure if that's everything that I would need for my situation.

Any advice that you guys can give me is greatly appreciated... the paint on my car has always been a weak point for me, and lately I have been contemplating dumping the car (as much as I love it) because the appearance makes me sad (as stupid as that sounds).

Thanks in advance!

lexusscturbo

iTrader: (12)

Hmnn well how much do you want to spend? Currently I'm in 1400 :shuuder:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...-a-makita.html
Your car seems to be a pre 01 so it should be the same as mine

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Note that even with the best detailing job, your paint will not look brand new just because your car is ~10 years old by now. However, that doesn't mean you can try to keep it looking as good as it can without a repaint.

You need to invest in some kind of power tool (dual action orbit or rotary). Forget all the hand work stuff, especially if you have oxidation and heavy swirls).


But while you wait for your machine to come, wash your car and use clay bar on it. That will get the surface contamination out. Your paint will feel slicker than icy roads. Once you do that, then you can start doing some polishing and waxing.

It's better to take it one step at a time than to tell you to buy this and that, otherwise you'll get confused.

lexusscturbo

iTrader: (12)

Hmnn first he needs to decide if he's going with a Rotary or DA..
But Today he can either get Meguiars M105/205 or the PowerFinish and PO85 RD combo and he'll be set

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

I do EVERYTHING by hands. No buffing =)

oski83

Stage3-Im in the same boat as you buddy...Ive been into cars for 15 years and lately Ive decided to "properly" start detailing my cars.
Ive done LOTS of reading, google'ing and even watching vid clips on You Tube.

PERSONALLY, Ive found in my research, the PorterCable 7424 as a nice choice by many detailers.
Ive also found autogeek.com very useful in looking at product, knowing a bit about them and even watching (through their site) the Videos they posted on YouTube.
This by far has helped me understand not just the product, but the procedure, techniques, and & tips to get me set on detailing. Im sure everyone has their own "ways" of doing things/detailing, as well as their own preference & techniques on products to use. Ive used lots of different ones throughout the years but none that were of "quality". This led me to go as far as creating my own "Shopping Cart" on their site of all the products I'd want to get or replace from my old arsenal.
I can PM you my selections I chose based on level I want to detail, and the level the paint on cars are (ie-Light Swirl vs. Deep Swirls & scratches)

Let me know GL

tt061880

if you're willing to spend money on a good buffer, I have a FLEX VG3401 for sale. I bought it a month ago, used it on one car. I also have the Porter Cable 7424 as well, I need to get rid of one of them.

oski83

offtopic-Is your Flex an Old model? Tried googling part # you provided and cant seem to find it :/

tt061880

sorry, it's the FLEX XC 3401 VRG.

oski83

YATZEE! Thanks!

lexusscturbo

iTrader: (12)

The G110 has more power than the 7424....
If not get a Rotary and a good BP

Stokdgs

As has been stated, you need to wash really good with something that will help remove any old wax, oils, grease, etc.., and then claybar the entire car carefully, right before you start cleaning the paint with the machine of your choice.
The P/C 7424 is safe, but doesnt rotate, so it takes longer to do the same thing that the Flex XC3401VRG would do. I have both of them.
The PC is able to accept a smaller pad, like the 4" and the 6", while the Flex will only use the 6" pad. So that may be an issue for you, or not..
Pick your paint cleaner/corrector carefully. Some products will introduce more marks into the paint on the way to cleaning it that will require you to buff with different products and pads to get the perfect, swirl,scratch free, clear, finish..
One product that will not cause all this extra work is Zaino ZPC Fusion swirl remover. It clears out alot of stuff that is not too deep, and dries to a light powder that is easy to remove. It may take more than one application to get the desired finish, but it is pretty user-friendly, compared to some other products out there.
I would recommend Lake Country foam pads, with yellow being the most agressive and red or black being the least agressive. Most people say to start with a White pad, but I like the Yellow one to start, and if you are careful, watch what you are doing, using good light, you can get alot bad stuff out of even black paint and make it look really good, without alot of extra steps.
We need to see the paint if you can post up a picture of it, ok ??
Your final wax, polish, sealant, etc, will finish off all the prep work, so be careful what you use here too. Alot of stuff out there will give you great shine, but adds oils, fillers, etc., so that means the finish will be protected for a little while, and then all the marks you didnt get out in the prep stage will be back. If you want longevity in your final steps, look for something that is proven to last a long time, with normal washes, weather, etc.. If you like to wax your car alot, then get something less expensive, and that is what you will be doing..
You need to not do any circular motions to your paint ever, especially if its black. Only back and forth motions please, even when you wash and dry it.
Use a good car soap, preferably something that is recommended by the person that makes the wax, polish, sealant, etc., that you choose to get.
And after all this, crap is still going to fall and stick to your paint, but the amount of protectant you have will lessen the damage somewhat; however, you will still need to regularly go out there and wash, clay, and polish it back.
Unless its a garage queen that never gets out very long, this is the life of the paint of a vehicle..
You might not need to get it repainted, it just may be really marred up, try to remove them carefully first before you go to that extreme.. Repainting costs thousands, if its done right, and its a real pain to deal with the job, for you and the shop. Sure, they do it, but its alot of work, and alot of things can go wrong if they are not good at it.. I would avoid that step as long as possible.
The higher end shops will do a great job but it will cost alot more, and its because it takes hours and hours of prep work, not too long to paint, and then hours and hours of getting the paint color sanded and rubbed out, after it dried...
Good luck with this, send pics if possible..
DanF

lexusscturbo

iTrader: (12)

If anyone needs help on what works for S202 feel free to PM me

oski83

Good info guys!!

In comparing the Flex vs a PC, for a noob in the "detail world" like myself, isnt the PC less likely to damage paint from lack of experience? At least thats what Ive read and watched Vids on....please advise.

Also, lexusscturbo, can u clairfy whats an S202 and a G110? Interested in knowing what products/machines they are

Greg@DI

It's hard to know exactly the right combination of products until you start actually polishing the surface. If you want to remove etchings from bird droppings it is more than likely that a Flex XC 3401 VRG or rotary buffer (i.e. Metabo PE-12-175). These buffers can help generate the appropriate amount of heat to really work in the polishes. The polishes will be the key to restoring the paint. After that you can enhance the shine and protect the surface with a quality sealant and/or wax. The Flex XC 3401 VRG is easy and safe to use so it may be the best option for a newer detailer. The rotary buffers have more cutting power but they take a lot longer to master.

As for polishes I usually recommend you start off with a medium and light polish for this situation. My favorite combination is the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (medium) and the Menzerna PO106FF (light). It has outstanding cutting power and finishes down very smooth. If you want more value try the Menzerna Intensive Polish (medium) and Final Polish II (light). I apply the medium polishes with an orange pad and the light polish with a white pad.

We have a perfect kit for you that gets you the Flex and 2x Menzerna polishes and pads at a great price with our Flex 2 Step Menzerna Polishing Kit.

For some of our other best values I highly recommend you look at some of our kits:

Buffer Kits
Flex Starter Kit
Metabo 12-175 Rotary Buffer Starter Kit
Polish and Protection Starter Kit

If you have any questions about any of these products or anything related to detailing please let me know. Good luck!

Greg @ Detailed Image