Swirl-Free by hand?
04-12-09, 08:52 AM
#16
I would probably advise against using ScratchX 1.0 on your whole car. Considering how soft Lexus clearcoats are, I thought it would be easy in my early days. Unfortunately, 2 hours later and one hell of a sore arm, I got a 60% reduction of imperfections on almost 1/2 my trunk 
. Its what made me buy my PC 
Most likely its much easier with Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, and ScratchX 2.0 though
. Its what made me buy my PC Most likely its much easier with Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, and ScratchX 2.0 though
04-12-09, 09:53 PM
#17
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Like other have said trying to do a paint correction by hand is just plain crazy. To do one car would take you forever,literally. Even with a PC it will take you a good amount of time, I mean more then a few hours. Save you body and get a DA, I would suggest a flex.
04-13-09, 07:10 AM
#19
FWIW, Since using the new micro-abrasive technology products, specifically #105 compound and #205 polish, I've not used my Makita rotary. I can now get the same results, quickly, with a DA (PC) without any holograms and no risk of paint damage. The DA, IMHO, is now preferable as it is safer and can match the results of a rotary in the same time frame.
04-13-09, 05:40 PM
#21
Dysfunctional Veteran
we had this discussion before about 5 hrs. Road Trip!
i would be glad to help. You arent nessecarily doing anything "Wrong".
The way I look at detailing is:
The only right way to do it is the way the Experts do. The problem is, everyone has their own techniques, so there are ALOT of ways to do it right. 70% of people do not even wash their cars. 90% of the 30% that do, apply no wax other than what the "Laser Wash" applies. 8% apply wax every 6 months, like Nu-finish or eqivalent, and the rest, do it like we do.
The only completely WRONG way, is the way that makes it look worse than it did when you started, or not doing anything at all.
about 5 hrs. Road Trip!i would be glad to help. You arent nessecarily doing anything "Wrong".
The way I look at detailing is:
The only right way to do it is the way the Experts do. The problem is, everyone has their own techniques, so there are ALOT of ways to do it right. 70% of people do not even wash their cars. 90% of the 30% that do, apply no wax other than what the "Laser Wash" applies. 8% apply wax every 6 months, like Nu-finish or eqivalent, and the rest, do it like we do.
The only completely WRONG way, is the way that makes it look worse than it did when you started, or not doing anything at all.
Last edited by ArmyofOne; 04-13-09 at 05:49 PM.
04-13-09, 06:04 PM
#22
FWIW, Since using the new micro-abrasive technology products, specifically #105 compound and #205 polish, I've not used my Makita rotary. I can now get the same results, quickly, with a DA (PC) without any holograms and no risk of paint damage. The DA, IMHO, is now preferable as it is safer and can match the results of a rotary in the same time frame.
04-13-09, 06:12 PM
#23
Lexus Fanatic
Try SCRATCH-OUT. I've had excellent luck with it over the years, for many kinds of surface scratches and paint problems. It is also inexpensive as well.
04-14-09, 09:36 PM
#26
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04-14-09, 09:51 PM
#27
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The way I look at detailing is:
The only right way to do it is the way the Experts do. The problem is, everyone has their own techniques, so there are ALOT of ways to do it right. 70% of people do not even wash their cars. 90% of the 30% that do, apply no wax other than what the "Laser Wash" applies. 8% apply wax every 6 months, like Nu-finish or eqivalent, and the rest, do it like we do.
The only completely WRONG way, is the way that makes it look worse than it did when you started, or not doing anything at all.
The only right way to do it is the way the Experts do. The problem is, everyone has their own techniques, so there are ALOT of ways to do it right. 70% of people do not even wash their cars. 90% of the 30% that do, apply no wax other than what the "Laser Wash" applies. 8% apply wax every 6 months, like Nu-finish or eqivalent, and the rest, do it like we do.
The only completely WRONG way, is the way that makes it look worse than it did when you started, or not doing anything at all.
But I do agree that most people do not even wash there car correctly, and they just keep adding wax.
Also that is true about there is no real wrong way if you are getting better results then what you started with...UNLESS you are charging for a professional service and not adjusting your rate accordingly to the level of service.
Have a good one.
04-15-09, 07:13 AM
#30
Dysfunctional Veteran
Well I mean this with all do respect. There is no way you can do a full paint correction by hand and be a "Pro". It is not cost effective to do this, on top of you not being able to get good paint correction with that method. I would love someone to do a full paint correction on Audi clear.
But I do agree that most people do not even wash there car correctly, and they just keep adding wax.
Also that is true about there is no real wrong way if you are getting better results then what you started with...UNLESS you are charging for a professional service and not adjusting your rate accordingly to the level of service.
Have a good one.
But I do agree that most people do not even wash there car correctly, and they just keep adding wax.
Also that is true about there is no real wrong way if you are getting better results then what you started with...UNLESS you are charging for a professional service and not adjusting your rate accordingly to the level of service.
Have a good one.
The results are there, it can be done, just takes time.
Obviously for heavy swirls and paint correction you would be wise to use a DA, but if you have the time to kill, the proper products and dont mind good, old-fashioned hard WORK, you can get swirl free or 98% swirl free by hand.
Or you could do like I did and start with a swirl free finish (on my Civic), and just keep it that way by hand. <---- This way is much easier.
As far as charging goes, I charge what I deem fair, and I dont accept money until the job is complete...at which point If I dont think I got good enough results, I either Lower the price, give some of the money back, or if they insist, I give them a certificate for a free/discounted repeat service. I'm not some scam artist. If I have a customer bring me a car and I dont think I can get the results I would want on MY car because I dont have the tools, then I wont take the job, or at the very least I can inform them up front of the likelyhood that they wont get the most that they could. If they are still ok with working with me then, then I dont say no. And Cost effectiveness? Its my hobby now, not a business. I do it for fun. I do maybe 2 cars a month now. Now, if you were a full fledged business like I used to be, then yeah, doing 4/5/6 cars a week by hand would get old quick.
Last edited by ArmyofOne; 04-15-09 at 07:19 AM.