Zinda

iTrader: (1)

So I recently went out and bought a lot of stuff from Amazon to clean my car and join you detailers here in fingering your vehicles. Anyways, to get to the point quickly what am I missing from this list?

List of items...
Zymol Z-507 Leather Cleaner
Zymol Z-509 Leather Conditioner
The Absorber Synthetic Drying Chamois
Meguiar's Quick Interior Mist and Wipe Detailer
Mothers Double Loop Brake Dust Brush
Meguiar's X2000 Water Magnet Drying Towel
NXT Tech Wax 2.0
NXT Car Wash
NXT Insane Shine Spray
Ultimate Quik Detailer
2 Microfiber Towel
2 Foam Applicator Pad
Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
Gold Class Liquid Wax
Gold Class Endurance High Gloss Gel
Quik Detailer
Quik Interior Detailer
Clam Shell for Clay
2-50grm Clay Bars
PlastX
ScratchX 2.0
Microfiber Wash Mitt
Grit Guard
Bucket

PS: I understand I overlapped a few things but I am new at this so I am trying out things...Also I know I am definetely going to need more clay what do you guys suggest?

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

the GC liquid wax isnt as good as nxt 2.0...also the endurance tire shine is better than the nxt insane spray. i dunno how good the zymol leather cleaner is but i had good success with Lexol cleaner and conditioner. the 2 50g clay bar can last u for now as ur suppose to clay bar your car like 2-4 times a year.

Zinda

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks for the input on the wax and tire shine now I know which ones to use when just sprucing up my car. If the Zymol doesn't work well I will switch over to the Lexol although I have read that Zymol smells really good. As for the clay bars are you sure they will last me the year? I have never clayed before and I am not really sure as to how to tell when it needs to be replaced.

Do you see anything else I might need?

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

heres a little thread on how to clay, http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-cleaning.html

and a video by Meguiars own, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI

oh yea u need some microfiber towels lol.

A1Lexis

iTrader: (6)

Lots and lots of MF towels. If you get cheap ones, use those for the tires and wheels. Use the high quality MF for your glaze, sealant and wax. Be sure to keep them separated. Post some before and after pix when your finished. Your off to a great start

Zinda

iTrader: (1)

That was really helpful thank you!

Well I have a huge pack of costco MF towels so those I guess shall be used for the tires and wheels. Which high quality MF would you suggest for everything else? If you could link me to amazon that would be appreciated.

This is why I love this site everyone is always so helpful!

How do I get this scuff out of my paint? Will scratchx 2.0 work for this?
http://i41.tinypic.com/i6lcf8.jpg

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

i have the costco pack too...they work actually really good with removing polish and wax etc. i just use the old ones for wheels.

A1Lexis

iTrader: (6)

I looked on Amazon for MF towels and nothing jumped out at me to recommend. I don't want to recommend something I haven't personally used. I buy all my MF towels and products from CL vendors on this forum. How bad is the scuff? Any pics? You may be able to remove it with clay, polish etc..

A1Lexis

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, just saw the link to the pic but I can't make out the scuff. Is it on your mirror? A good clay should clean that up for you.

Zinda

iTrader: (1)

Yup its on my mirror...

jfelbab

Since you asked for suggestions, here are a few of mine.

From your list...
Zymol Z-507 Leather Cleaner
Zymol Z-509 Leather Conditioner
I'd recommend Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream in place of these. Most leather conditioners remain oily or tacky on your leather and thereby attract and hold dirt and dust leading to accelerated wear. The LM Protectant is like a sealant and dries with no oily residue. No aroma either.

2 Microfiber Towel
2 Foam Applicator Pad
I'm sure that you will find that two MF towels and Applicators are not nearly enough. I'd suggest starting with a dozen. I'd also recommend not using the same towels/applicators for wax that you use for polish or leather products, etc. Also be sure not to wash these with any other material, like cotton towels for example. They will become lint magnets if you do.

Microfiber Wash Mitt
I'd suggest trying a genuine sheepskin wash mitt as they release dirt easier than the MF wash mitts. I'd also suggest using two mitts. One for just the lower body panels, wheels, rocker panels, and areas that will get more contaminated.

Bucket
I'd suggest using two buckets. One for the soap mixture and a separate bucket for rinsing out the mitt after washing each panel. This is the bucket that should have the grit guard.

I'd add to your list;
Ultimate Quik Wax - A spray on product that you would use after each wash to restore the slickness and gloss lost to washing and aging of the wax/sealant. This product also works on plastic and vinyl exterior parts of the car and provides protection and and nice sheen to these parts.

Quik Wheel Detailer - like the UQW above, this product will add slickness to your wheels and make it much easier to keep them free of brake dust and road grime.

All Purpose Cleaner - There are several good APCs to choose from. Typically, I mix a couple dilutions for cleaning vinyl, carpet, floor mats, tires, wheel wells, engine parts, etc., and I store them in spray bottles for easy use.

You might also consider a good glass cleaner. Stoners Invisible Glass or Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner are two good options.

Welcome to the compulsive sickness known as detailing.

Zinda

iTrader: (1)

Alright, well the clay bar did nothing to the car in terms of getting rid of that scuff. I am guessing ScratchX 2.0 is next step?


I will check these bad boys outs and see where I can pick them up.

Quote:

I'm sure that you will find that two MF towels and Applicators are not nearly enough. I'd suggest starting with a dozen. I'd also recommend not using the same towels/applicators for wax that you use for polish or leather products, etc. Also be sure not to wash these with any other material, like cotton towels for example. They will become lint magnets if you do.

Alright, I will purchase more MF towels and applicators...Do I wash warm cyle?

Quote:

I'd suggest trying a genuine sheepskin wash mitt as they release dirt easier than the MF wash mitts. I'd also suggest using two mitts. One for just the lower body panels, wheels, rocker panels, and areas that will get more contaminated.

Alright, I will get sheepskin washmitts and see if they hold up better. Can these go in the machine as well?

Quote:

I'd suggest using two buckets. One for the soap mixture and a separate bucket for rinsing out the mitt after washing each panel. This is the bucket that should have the grit guard.

This I am already doing because otherwise I tended to get swirls in the past.

And everything else you mentioned I will pick up very soon...

Notes:
The claying is a ***** to do I use a lot of detailer but the clay still tends to stick every now and then. When I wipe off the detailer it kind of leaves a water spotting like residue.

I need a foam gun!

After I master the wash and wax I will move on to polishing but lets wait on that until I can master these first two steps. Also does anyone have a good indepth guide that could help with the wash and wax?

jfelbab

I wash my MF's in warm cycle using Tide HE and add white vinegar to the rinse cycle. Seems to keep them soft and absorbent a long time.

I wash my sheepskin mitts after every use and toss them in the same load as the applicators.

Clay can stick if your paint is too warm, if you apply too much pressure, or if you use too little lube or sometimes if a lube is not slippery enough. Claying doesn't need a lot of pressure to do it's thing. Clay a smaller area if you are getting sticking and use less pressure and see how that works out. I typically use a QD for the lube and do a 2'x2' area at a time and wipe up the residue after each section is done. This gives me a chance to evaluate that area to be sure I have removed all the bonded contamination.


I did a write-up of what I do a while ago and here it is. The key to detailing success is in developing techniques that work for you.

I've posted this before but its been updated recently and you might find it useful.

This is what I do. I've developed my "best practices" over 47 years of detailing (45 professionally) and they are constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should to find what works for you and stick with it. An important fact to remember... it is the process that is the key to stunning results and the products are secondary to the process. I happen to use mostly Meguiar's products because I like getting everything from one source but this doesn't mean that they are your only choice. Many companies make great products. Use what you like and what you find that works for you.

Typically, every 3-4 months I do a complete detail on my personal cars. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish, (optional Glaze) and Wax or Sealant. Once I have done a complete detail I maintain by washing every week and applying an enhancer product (UQW) after every wash.

Washing - An occasional run through a touchless Laser Automatic Wash won't damage the finish during periods of inclement weather but I avoid any cloth automatic wash or car washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good car wash like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wash.

I never use a dishwashing detergent on my vehicles as it is not as good as a car wash. It is designed to remove grease from dishes, not dirt from paint. Dishwashing detergent lacks the lubricity needed to avoid marring the paint.

I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards (one for soap and one for rinsing the mitts) and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much will shorten the life of the wax or sealant, using too little will not provide enough lubrication.

I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop water spots which can be difficult to remove.

I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt on my wheels and rocker panels that I use to wash my paint. Older mitts get this dirtier task.

I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can, then I gently dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels (Meguiar's Water Magnet). I consider these waffle-weave microfiber towels much better at absorbing water and not marring the paint than a chamois.

I now inspect the paint to see what steps are needed to perfect the paint.

Clay - Even new cars can benefit from clay. I lightly draw my dry fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass I clay. I prefer Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit but others (Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.) also make good kits. I like the Meg's kit because it comes with a premium microfiber towel as well as a plastic case to store the unused clay.

I cut the clay bar into two or three pieces and put the unused pieces in the plastic box. If (when) I drop a piece of clay when using it, I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants are gone. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.

After I clay my paint, I move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels as it is now quite contaminated and should not be used on paint again.

Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint pores. I like Meguiar's #205 for this but the Megs SwirlX is also fine if you prefer OTC products. If you have deeper marring you might try Meguiar's #105 or ScratchX 2.0.

On a new car these cleaning and polishing steps might not be needed.

If you can afford a buffer look for a good dual action orbital type. Don't expect much from the cheap $30 stuff on the market. They might apply wax ok but they don't have the power needed to correct defects in paint. A rotary buffer can damage your paint if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is almost impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and the proper foam pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint very frequently with no fear of removing too much paint. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 12 years old and still going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts the detailing time by a factor of 10 over polishing by hand.

Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking it's best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts surprisingly little to the overall look. Most of the appearance (90%) comes from the previous prep steps. Waxing or sealing just protects that look.

For sealants, I like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0. The wetlook shine is as good or better than any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. Plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates to keep the protection intact. Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow Wax (#26) is my choice for a very nice carnauba that leaves a warm, deep glow to the paint.

A polymer sealant is a great product for wheels too. It resists brake dust and wheels stay clean longer and clean up easier. I like Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer for this purpose as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF applicator and apply to the wheel and buff.

Leather - I use a leather cleaner and a protectant at least quarterly to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out.

Interior - For interior detailing I prefer Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that does not add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it produces glare. This product also has UV protection.

Tires - It is important to clean the tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will remove most or all of the wax or sealant on the wheels. Instead, I use a stiff brush and car wash soap or APC. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of tire dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I spray it on a foam applicator and wipe down the tire with a clean terry cloth to remove excess. I carefully wipe out the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto the paint.

Maintenance - Finally, I maintain the exterior paint with a spray wax enhancer. There are several products here that work well. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (UQW) after every wash. This stuff applies in about 10 - 15 minutes and leaves the paint very slick with that freshly detailed look. The added slickness afforded by this approach greatly aids in preventing bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint and makes the car almost self cleaning. This product can also be applied to textured vinyl and plastic trim as it does not stain and leaves no white residue.

I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch paint if not removed promptly.

As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Everything that touches the paint has the potential to cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.

A1Lexis

iTrader: (6)

^^^ Great write-up. I use the same process, just different products. But like you said, it's what you are comfortable with and your prep work is the key to your success. Thanks for sharing!

Zinda

iTrader: (1)

So I am still having trouble getting that side mirror scuff out does anyone have any ideas? I tried hitting it with a little ScratchX but thats not working too well....Unless I am using it improperly?