compounding and polishing question
08-06-09, 01:12 PM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: CA 91789
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
compounding and polishing question
hi...
when i was compounding the car with the PC7424, howcome the compound on the car is like soo dry, and when i butting it like 2 times and the compound is almost gone already, doesnt look people's in the youtube.
what did i do wrong?
thanks
Nick
when i was compounding the car with the PC7424, howcome the compound on the car is like soo dry, and when i butting it like 2 times and the compound is almost gone already, doesnt look people's in the youtube.
what did i do wrong?
thanks
Nick
08-06-09, 04:20 PM
#3
08-06-09, 05:24 PM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: CA 91789
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im using the meguiars #150....im using it in garage and the car is cold. well...at first that i didn't know i need to prime that pad, but i just tried with primed pad, however, it's just a little bit better, and still dry too fast.
08-06-09, 10:58 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Diamond Bar/Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
yeah how much compound are you putting on the pad? It should practically be a full circle around the entire perimeter. Or i like to put a dab about nickel size then 4 lines like in a sun shape.
Trending Topics
08-08-09, 07:55 AM
#13
A few thoughts on #105.
There were/are two versions of this in the marketplace. The earlier one was drier than the second and was not officially approved for DA use. The latter states it is for rotary, DA and hand use (icons on the bottle).
Both old and new #105 products cut incredibly fast compared to the older DAT (Diminishing Abrasive Technology). You should not need to work the polish as long to achieve the desired results, which is a good thing.
Some have reported this drying of the product and have resolved it by spritzing very lightly with water or QD. I have not found this necessary but I prime the pad well and clean the pad on the fly after each panel. It is vital to keep the pad properly cleaned and primed. I have used QD to assist in wiping up the spent polish occasionally. Always check your pad and clean it if there is any evidence of caking. Use a clean terry towel pressed to the pad and turn the DA on for a few seconds to wipe the residue from the pad. Use a nylon brush to remove any dried residue. This is important. It is also important to use the right pad with the product. If you are attempting to remove some resistant marring you might need to use a firmer pad. Try the Meguiar's Polishing pad or Lake Country yellow or orange. Don't bear down too hard and be sure to keep the pad rotating and flat to the surface. Use a softer pad for polishing or finishing and use a finishing polish for that. Typically #205 used with a Meguiar's Finishing pad or LC White or Black works well. I also find the LC flat pads to work better for me than their CCS line with #105/#205. Change pads if the pad becomes too saturated with product.
If dusting, caking is an issue the first steps to take are to work a smaller area for a shorter time with less pressure.
It bears repeating that #105 works a lot faster than the DAT compounds of the past. Don't work the product dry and if there is any difficulty wiping up the product, spritz with a bit if DA to assist in it's removal.
There were/are two versions of this in the marketplace. The earlier one was drier than the second and was not officially approved for DA use. The latter states it is for rotary, DA and hand use (icons on the bottle).
Both old and new #105 products cut incredibly fast compared to the older DAT (Diminishing Abrasive Technology). You should not need to work the polish as long to achieve the desired results, which is a good thing.
Some have reported this drying of the product and have resolved it by spritzing very lightly with water or QD. I have not found this necessary but I prime the pad well and clean the pad on the fly after each panel. It is vital to keep the pad properly cleaned and primed. I have used QD to assist in wiping up the spent polish occasionally. Always check your pad and clean it if there is any evidence of caking. Use a clean terry towel pressed to the pad and turn the DA on for a few seconds to wipe the residue from the pad. Use a nylon brush to remove any dried residue. This is important. It is also important to use the right pad with the product. If you are attempting to remove some resistant marring you might need to use a firmer pad. Try the Meguiar's Polishing pad or Lake Country yellow or orange. Don't bear down too hard and be sure to keep the pad rotating and flat to the surface. Use a softer pad for polishing or finishing and use a finishing polish for that. Typically #205 used with a Meguiar's Finishing pad or LC White or Black works well. I also find the LC flat pads to work better for me than their CCS line with #105/#205. Change pads if the pad becomes too saturated with product.
If dusting, caking is an issue the first steps to take are to work a smaller area for a shorter time with less pressure.
It bears repeating that #105 works a lot faster than the DAT compounds of the past. Don't work the product dry and if there is any difficulty wiping up the product, spritz with a bit if DA to assist in it's removal.