GS300 I6

iTrader: (2)

how do one remove wall-paint and tar from the side skirt and door/fender?

jfelbab

Clay, followed by a polish and then rewax or use a cleaner wax.

PaPaHoFF

iTrader: (19)

It depends how caked on it is lol. My uncle ran over white line paint and it sprayed all over the side of his tahoe. I used plastic razer blades to remove the paint and then clayed and polished.

stvincent

iTrader: (5)

for tar, there's a bug stain & tar remover by rainx.. i tried this on my car, works like a charm..

Greg@DI

For the tar I would use the Stoner Tarminator. It safely dissolves the tar and saves you from lots of scrubbing. For the paint over spray I would recommend a clay bar. Often times the medium grade clay bar is needed for paint over spray instead of the usual fine grade bar which I use for dirt, etc. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

GS300 I6

iTrader: (2)

hmmm i removed tar with an old clay before.
Removing the paint will be a challenge for me.
any home products i can use? like wd-40 or paint thinner or something else?

raytseng

agree with papahoff,
You're gonna probably need something more then clay if you have cured paint like you'd get from street lines. Try some plastic razor blades, or old credit cards for the bulk of the paint,

then try claybar or perhaps mr. clean magic eraser for the remaining specks.

Olskool53

Try "Stoners" products such as Tarminator or Zenit.......... thats what I use.

Word of advise

DO NOT CLAY OVER TARMINATOR OR OTHER SUCH PRODUCTS AS CLAY WILL BECOME TACKY AND RUIN.

1) Wash thorougly
2) Chemically prep to remove paint (overspray/splatter)
3) Wash thoroughly
4) Clay using a QD and a Micro Fiber
5) Polish
6) Wax or Seal

I have heard that WD-40 works to remove paint on the plastic skirting in the wheel wells, you need to let it dwell then remove with alcohol...........never tried it though. Read this tip in the DETAILPROS forum........

tromly

+1 stvincent, rainx makes great products, it worked for me

smoothLEX

Clay bar for the paint and try some sort of bug and tar remover for the tar.

GS300 I6

iTrader: (2)

hey guys,

I did a complete detail(wash,clay,polish fine, polish ultra fine, glazed, and p21s wax) on my dad's 86 toyota pickup. It took all morning, day and night to finish.

The results came out fantastic but i still see swirls(thats fine i guess for my first time). i should invest in the flood light.
The problems I came around to was I couldn't get the paint stains out. btw, the tar came out like magic with WD-40. second problem is when i started to clay that area(lower door and fender), every time i tried to pass through it, it would stop me on my track and the clay would just stick. I tried many times to over come this problem until i used up the whole bottle of quik detailing. LOL. I have clayed extremely tough thing before but this was the worst? what could be the problem.
I thought it was kinda weird when orange and white pads turned red. this doesnt seem normal at all but i continued with the process.

Next after i was finish with everything.
The next task was to clean up!!
there is no where to find this write up. i ask a few articles and friends about this.

I clean the pads but simply drowning every pad in its individual bucket with laundry detergent. boy, the water was red. after i got all the red out, i sprayed it with this special pad cleaner which clean it and made it look like i just purchased it. I did the same for the microfiber towels. I dry it by letting it sit outside in the shade. after it drys, i put it back into my box. And for the blue pad which i used for the wax, how do one clean all the wax off the pad without spending on expensive bucket. it still feel wax-like on the pad.

As for the red on the pads, my question is, can i do this complete detail again on this truck or it is extremely bad since im burning too much of the paint. (it happens to me before when i just do a regular wax by hand, meaning the red stuff comes off)

at the end of the day, i was thinking, dam this is a lot of work but the next day.
WOW, that truck is super red now. it turned a faded red into a Cherry red. It almost looks brand new.

raytseng

Pics! If you do a good job of protecting the prep and correction work, you won't ever need to do this job again, just need to keep refreshing the outer most wax layer periodically.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

The pads turned red b/c the paint is a single stage. You can do the detail again, but like any paint, whether or w/ clear or not, you dont want to do it too often b/c you are removing paint/clear. Congrats on getting the detail done.. post up some pics!!

jfelbab

BTW, I'd think twice before using those red pads on a white car. Even after repeated washing the red can transfer and stain. I have a Red SS MR2 and I found out that the stained pads will transfer color even after repeated cleaning.