Claybar the first time
#3
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Not that I'd do it but I saw this and found it interesting
http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html
http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html
#5
IMHO, claying by hand is the only way. How else can you feel and hear what's going on. I may add though, you should polish, then wax after claying. Polishing is probably more important than waxing when it comes to depth, reflection, and overall proper conditioning of the paint.
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Not that I'd do it but I saw this and found it interesting
http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html
http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html
I have also seen this type of pad in the Griots catalog......
In my professional opinion I feel that this step "Claying" needs to been done by hand. This way the user can see, feel and hear the contaminants first hand being removed while performing this step. (Similar to shaving your face with a razor vs shaving with an electric) It is always best to work a section at a time, and observe your surfaces as you clay. I also recommend that you knead the clay often for the best results. There is nothing worse than skimming a clay bar really fast over a surface, then noticing that your clay bit into something abrasive and left a scratch. As you already know....DO NOT DROP CLAY, IF SO DISCARD
For the ultimate results in depth, clarity and shine, follow up with a proper polish and then a premuim wax or sealant and your good to go. Maintenance is the key, so be sure to wash correctly weekly followed by a QD, then wax at least quarterly or if not more often.....
Last edited by DaveGS4; 10-14-09 at 03:31 PM.
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#8
I have also seen this type of pad in the Griots catalog......
In my professional opinion I feel that this step "Claying" needs to been done by hand. This way the user can see, feel and hear the contaminants first hand being removed while performing this step. (Similar to shaving your face with a razor vs shaving with an electric) It is always best to work a section at a time, and observe your surfaces as you clay. I also recommend that you knead the clay often for the best results. There is nothing worse than skimming a clay bar really fast over a surface, then noticing that your clay bit into something abrasive and left a scratch. As you already know....DO NOT DROP CLAY, IF SO DISCARD
For the ultimate results in depth, clarity and shine, follow up with a proper polish and then a premuim wax or sealant and your good to go. Maintenance is the key, so be sure to wash correctly weekly followed by a QD, then wax at least quarterly or if not more often.....
Dave @ Innovative
In my professional opinion I feel that this step "Claying" needs to been done by hand. This way the user can see, feel and hear the contaminants first hand being removed while performing this step. (Similar to shaving your face with a razor vs shaving with an electric) It is always best to work a section at a time, and observe your surfaces as you clay. I also recommend that you knead the clay often for the best results. There is nothing worse than skimming a clay bar really fast over a surface, then noticing that your clay bit into something abrasive and left a scratch. As you already know....DO NOT DROP CLAY, IF SO DISCARD
For the ultimate results in depth, clarity and shine, follow up with a proper polish and then a premuim wax or sealant and your good to go. Maintenance is the key, so be sure to wash correctly weekly followed by a QD, then wax at least quarterly or if not more often.....
Dave @ Innovative
#9
Just a follow up question to the above posts.
If there are touchup and areas I'm using Paintchip doctor on. Do I still go through the whole wash, clay, polish/wax steps first? Then apply the touchups?
Whats the procedure if you had to wash the car, but had scratches, etc...
Thanks
If there are touchup and areas I'm using Paintchip doctor on. Do I still go through the whole wash, clay, polish/wax steps first? Then apply the touchups?
Whats the procedure if you had to wash the car, but had scratches, etc...
Thanks
#10
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It took me so long because my truck had never been clayed before. It had ton's of rust spots from rail debris or brake dust that I had to get the elbow grease out to get those out. Those spots are horrible!
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Rail dust, also known as fallout is tiny airborne metallilc contaminants that come from the trains wheels and rail that become airborne. This dust then lands on the vehicles surface during transport, therefore contaminating the paint as it settles and bonds to the vehicle.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 10-14-09 at 03:30 PM.
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