gbondioli

Sorry if this has been covered, but I can’t seem to find tutorials that cover certain aspects of paint correction.

• I have found many videos demonstrating the use of a random orbital polisher. But none of them show how to polish awkward areas such as the trunk lid (around the license plate), door handles, and the grill/front bumper. How should I tackle those areas with a DA polisher? I am especially interested in purchasing a Flex XC 3401. Is it possible to detail all areas of a car with a Flex and 6.5” or 7” pads, or is it necessary to do some spots by hand?
• What areas need to be taped off, and when? Is this only necessary when using certain polishes and/or more aggressive pads? Should I protect absolutely everything that is plastic (trim around moon roof, head lamps, emblems, other)?

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

For the thin areas that do not fit a normal 6" pad, go with a 3" pad. For door handles, use Meguiars M105 by hand with a foam applicator. Essentially, do it by hand when you can't do it by machine

For the Flex, yes it is possible but there is a small learning curve to overcome for the curved areas as the backing plate doesn't flex like the PC's.

As for tape. Rule of thumb is, if you think it needs it, do it anyway. Tape is cheap, repaints are not

MoeMistry

Great question. Depending on who's pads you use, you should be able to get around any curved area. Our CCS Pads are made by Lake Country...the leading pad manufacturer here in the US. The great thing about our pads is the curved edge. This curved edge means there's product on the outermost edges of the pad allowing you to polish very close to curves and edges without burning them. Traditional pads have a sidewall that is always dry and could heat the paint and possibly burn it.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...ols/Categories

For really tight areas as you mentioned like door handles, the hand applicators are the way to go. We make the same material foam applicators as the one you'd be using to polish the paint. So let's say you're using an orange pad with Menzerna SIP with your flex, now you want to polish inside the door handles. You'd use our Orange CCS Hand Applicator and apply SIP to the pad and begin working the polish in that tight area.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...ols/Categories

With the flex, the main areas to tape off are rubber moldings around the whole car. Wherever you see black, and you know you'll be polishing around that area, cover it. Since you're not using a high speed rotary, covering edges of the panels aren't that important, but if you don't feel comfortable, then tape.

Here's a flex kit that would be perfect and it's on special and includes S+H..

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...sh-Kits/Detail

Hope this helps.

Angelo

A machine polisher is the advantage of being able to do paint correction, or remove swirl marks and light scratches in the clear coat, and really make the paint pop!

Blackfire has two great, Menzerna based polishes, SRC Compound and SRC Finishing Polish. You would use the SRC Compound with an Orange Foam Pad to remove moderate to heavy swirl marks and damage, then finish with SRC Finishing Polish and a White Foam pad to really bring out the gloss.

Both the Flex and the Porter Cable are great polishers for begineers and offer great advantages over hand application.

The Porter Cable 7424XP and Meguiar's G110 V2 are very safe, does good work, and accepts 4 inch -7.5 inch pads.

The Flex is more powerful, works faster, and is pretty safe. It doesn't accept 4 inch pads and is more expensive.

Is the Flex worth the extra money? It really depends on the amount of cars you are doing and how hard the paint is. In most cases the Porter Cable 7424XP or Meguiar's G110 V2will get the job done, it will just take longer.

Alterantively, if you choose the Porter Cable, you might consider picking up some of Meguiar's latest polishes, M105 and M205. IME, they will outperform the Blackfire Polishes (for correction, still use the Blackfire sealant to protect the paint when you are done) with a Porter Cable. Our kits, designed with the help of Kevin Brown, really allow the Porter Cable to do great work.

As always I always recommend that one should tape off all trim and rubber trim pieces before doing any polishing/compounding on your or someone else's vehicle.

gbondioli

Are you saying that there would be a problem applying M105 and M205 with a Flex?

I am leaning toward the Flex, and the Meguiar's stuff. If most of the vehicle can be done faster, but the tight spots have to be done by hand due to the lack of compatibility with 4" pads, I think I will still come out ahead, timewise. Hopefully in quality, too, since I probably won't go over and over every spot until it is perfect .

MORE FLEX QUESTIONS

• Is it advised to pick up an extra backing plate right away? Or is it unlikely that anything would happen to the original (short of dropping it)?
  ... OK, I have to ask, how likely is the backing plate to survive a fall? (I feel like the mere fact that I've thought about this scenario makes it more likely to happen.)
• Does the Flex Grip Side Handle make a definite improvement in either comfort or control, or is it just personal preference?

MoeMistry

Even though I prefer the Menzerna polishes over the M105/205 combo, I would say you can use it with the flex.

As for your other questions, no need for spare backing plate. The machine is built like a tank. Side handle is personal preference.

gbondioli

Thanks for the answers!

varcity64

iTrader: (2)

i personally own the flex and some menzerna products and absolutely love them. i knew i was going to sacrifice the ability to switch backing plates to change the pad size, but i wanted the extra power. i have never used the megs products, so i cannot comment on them, but a lot of people love the 105/205 combo, so i am sure it is good. as for the tight areas, you do have to use your hands and i definitely recommend removing your licencse plates and frames prior to paint correction. it makes working those areas much easier. let me know if you have any specific questions and i will try my best to answer them.

gbondioli

I went ahead and ordered a gang of stuff. A couple weeks ago I was debating the price difference between a PC and Flex. I was surprised when $300 for the Flex wasn't even half of my total. As I've learned from other hobbies, I should take whatever I think I need to spend and double it!

Next questions:

• I've read about problems with the washer and lubrication on the Flex backing plate. Is that only for the early release models, or should I do something to my machine?
  Link
• What should be used to lubricate the felt ring?

GlisTech

^^ Interesting, I hadn't heard about issues like that before.

Honestly, I don't think that you need to do anything. We use the Flex on every single paint correction we do, it is used for hours and hours at a time, at least a few days a week. One of the Flex units that we use, is the very first one we ever got for our initial testing, and it continues chugging on like a champ with zero hiccups.

We take a lot of time and care to really only recommend and sell products that we use and personally believe in. When it comes to power tools like the Flex, we test them pretty extensively before we ever consider selling them. So I don't think that you have anything to worry about. With all the wear and tear that ours have received, not to mention all those units that we have sold to our customers, we haven't ever had an issue. I think that you will be totally fine.

Good luck... hope that your wife is understanding of what will soon become an obsession.

gbondioli

I'm already working on it. I showed her the Flex today and told her I got it for her birthday (). I'll give her black/black TSX a complete detailing. When it's all done, she will be able to brag that black truly is the best color. To make sure she appreciates it, I plan to polish half of her hood so she can see a side by side. And for insurance, I'd better get her something else for her birthday, too .

As for the backing plate issues with the Flex, apparently it was a problem with the early models with red backing plates. For lubrication, I found a post that recommended using air tool lubricant around the felt ring.