Clearcoat buffing spots: Any way to correct?
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Clearcoat buffing spots: Any way to correct?
Reputable body shop helped me remove some etching caused by acidic soap. Tradeoff was that there is an area that is slightly visibly different where the etching was.
I assume that it is a lower layer of clearcoat that is reflecting differently?
The spot looks a tad lighter than area surrounding it. It is just as smooth and clear, just a little different (lighter) shade.
Any explanations and easy/safe ways to minimize this if eliminating it is not possible??
I assume that it is a lower layer of clearcoat that is reflecting differently?
The spot looks a tad lighter than area surrounding it. It is just as smooth and clear, just a little different (lighter) shade.
Any explanations and easy/safe ways to minimize this if eliminating it is not possible??
#5
Reputable body shop helped me remove some etching caused by acidic soap. Tradeoff was that there is an area that is slightly visibly different where the etching was.
I assume that it is a lower layer of clearcoat that is reflecting differently?
The spot looks a tad lighter than area surrounding it. It is just as smooth and clear, just a little different (lighter) shade.
Any explanations and easy/safe ways to minimize this if eliminating it is not possible??
I assume that it is a lower layer of clearcoat that is reflecting differently?
The spot looks a tad lighter than area surrounding it. It is just as smooth and clear, just a little different (lighter) shade.
Any explanations and easy/safe ways to minimize this if eliminating it is not possible??
They should stand behind their work if they are a reputable body shop. Take it back and have them correct it.
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#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thanks all, they were doing this buff out to help me remove the etching. They warned me this might happen so I wont press them on creating a problem. It was a tradeoff for me...risk this or forever see the etching, which looked like a hard water stain running down the side.
This is much less visible. No difference in shine. Just a slight difference in color at off angle.
No way that this will show up in a picture, so sorry for the no post.
Here are some questions:
The way that I describe it, is the only remedy to respray?
Assuming this is a small area below my gas tank, would they have to respray the whole panel?
Is the respray only a clearcoat respray?
How much would a respray cost?
This is much less visible. No difference in shine. Just a slight difference in color at off angle.
No way that this will show up in a picture, so sorry for the no post.
Here are some questions:
The way that I describe it, is the only remedy to respray?
Assuming this is a small area below my gas tank, would they have to respray the whole panel?
Is the respray only a clearcoat respray?
How much would a respray cost?
#9
I believe you will find that the base coat paint under the clear coat will fade and deteriorate rather quickly from exposure to the sun and elements. The clear coat is really required to prevent that deterioration.
Yes, the only remedy is to respray.
Cost can depend on many factors. Check with a few body shops and get some estimates. Your car is pretty new (2008) so it is clearly worth the money to keep it looking proper, IMHO.
Yes, the only remedy is to respray.
Cost can depend on many factors. Check with a few body shops and get some estimates. Your car is pretty new (2008) so it is clearly worth the money to keep it looking proper, IMHO.
#10
I would advide against a "melt in" clearcoat repair on just the small area of concern (as opposed to clearing the entire panel) because I've been told by some friends at a local high end body shop, this type of repair doesn't hold up over time (you will eventually see a halo). Less longevity due to the blending additives & reduction etc. Ok if you were to trade the car, but if you plan to keep it, have them do it "right" for the long term result.
Best wishes
Last edited by Guitarman; 07-06-10 at 11:25 AM.
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Spoke to the body shop today. They think there is enough clearcoat left to protect the paint and therefore did not recommend moving straight to a respray.
They said only do it if the problem is imminent...that respray as a preventative will be the same cost as upon clearcoat failure (around $1,000+?) ....so there is no benefit to doing it as a preventative.
He also said that the whole panel would have to be redone.
The car is garaged and I park in covered parking during the day, so I am hoping I will be able to squeeze by. I will keep a good layer of wax on that spot as well.
Time will tell, I guess...and rest assured I will not allow ANY gas to land in that spot!
My OCD side wants me to take care of this...but my wallet says just wait.
This forum is not good for my OCD, BTW. Thanks everyone...all the input is fantastic.
They said only do it if the problem is imminent...that respray as a preventative will be the same cost as upon clearcoat failure (around $1,000+?) ....so there is no benefit to doing it as a preventative.
He also said that the whole panel would have to be redone.
The car is garaged and I park in covered parking during the day, so I am hoping I will be able to squeeze by. I will keep a good layer of wax on that spot as well.
Time will tell, I guess...and rest assured I will not allow ANY gas to land in that spot!
My OCD side wants me to take care of this...but my wallet says just wait.
This forum is not good for my OCD, BTW. Thanks everyone...all the input is fantastic.
#12
Lexus Fanatic
What is "acidic soap" and how did it get on your car? If it is a soap for washing your hands it should not etch your clearcoat. I would keep a couple layers of a good sealant or wax on the body panel if you are not going to do the respray.
#13
Pole Position
Thread Starter
UDel, here is my hypothesis...
Soap concentrate was sprayed on the car and pooled in the gas tank access cavity.
Car sat in the sun, while the concentrate dripped slowly over a period of 5-7 hrs.
What wax will provide the most protection for this? Since this is not a large area, durability/max protection is the key...not ease of application/removal.
Collonite maybe? Any 3M or Meguire's products that will do the job well?
Soap concentrate was sprayed on the car and pooled in the gas tank access cavity.
Car sat in the sun, while the concentrate dripped slowly over a period of 5-7 hrs.
What wax will provide the most protection for this? Since this is not a large area, durability/max protection is the key...not ease of application/removal.
Collonite maybe? Any 3M or Meguire's products that will do the job well?
#14
Lexus Fanatic
UDel, here is my hypothesis...
Soap concentrate was sprayed on the car and pooled in the gas tank access cavity.
Car sat in the sun, while the concentrate dripped slowly over a period of 5-7 hrs.
What wax will provide the most protection for this? Since this is not a large area, durability/max protection is the key...not ease of application/removal.
Collonite maybe? Any 3M or Meguire's products that will do the job well?
Soap concentrate was sprayed on the car and pooled in the gas tank access cavity.
Car sat in the sun, while the concentrate dripped slowly over a period of 5-7 hrs.
What wax will provide the most protection for this? Since this is not a large area, durability/max protection is the key...not ease of application/removal.
Collonite maybe? Any 3M or Meguire's products that will do the job well?
Collinite 476S would be a excellent choice as a wax, it is one of the best if not the best for protection and durability. I would also highly recommend Zaino AIO and Z2 or Klass AIO. You would put the sealant like Zaino or Klass on before the collinite 476 if you were doing both.
#15
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Udel, I agree, but it is a long story...here is the summary:
1. had car in for something that required a multiday stay.
2. normally dont have them wash but they said it had bird crap on it. I said OK as long as they dont towel dry as last time they towel dried my car they put a 3 inch long scratch in it (that was able to be buffed out at their expense).
3. When I got there I saw what look like dried water, and like you, thought it was no big deal.
4. I detailed the car over that weekend and noticed it was more than just surface etching.
5. really felt it was too late or dealer could say it is my fault for not allowing a towel dry off...felt I was screwed either way.
At this time it is what it is. I will keep an eye on it. As I continue to drive the car, I get more and more chips and road rash. I dont know how you guys stay on top of it...I figured at some point I am going to have to stop obsessing so much.
Now with that being said....is that 476S available on retail shelves?
1. had car in for something that required a multiday stay.
2. normally dont have them wash but they said it had bird crap on it. I said OK as long as they dont towel dry as last time they towel dried my car they put a 3 inch long scratch in it (that was able to be buffed out at their expense).
3. When I got there I saw what look like dried water, and like you, thought it was no big deal.
4. I detailed the car over that weekend and noticed it was more than just surface etching.
5. really felt it was too late or dealer could say it is my fault for not allowing a towel dry off...felt I was screwed either way.
At this time it is what it is. I will keep an eye on it. As I continue to drive the car, I get more and more chips and road rash. I dont know how you guys stay on top of it...I figured at some point I am going to have to stop obsessing so much.
Now with that being said....is that 476S available on retail shelves?