First wax for a new Lexus
#1
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I purchased a new 2010 ES 350 last month. The dealer applied some kind of wax but I don't know the details. I live in a harsh winter weather area with lots of snow and salt. I've been told by several people that there is no need to wax the car for the first six months. They say that you could but there is no need. I am interested to hear from others here about this. Is there a need to wax the car now before winter sets in?
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#2
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i do not trust dealer preps... if you live in an area of snow and salt and plan on driving your car during the winter, i would get that crap they put on stripped off and a proper detail with a good sealant to protect the paint through its first winter... then just get the car washed/rinsed after any snow storms... i try to at least do two major details a year now... one before and after winter...
its not like u have to wait to wash your brand new car because the paint is still drying... get it done...
its not like u have to wait to wash your brand new car because the paint is still drying... get it done...
#3
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This what I would do with a new car.
Wash
Clay
Correction if needed
Sealant x 2
Wax X 2
I would go with Blackfire Wet Diamond x 2 and then top it off with Collinite Wax x 2 for the best in protection for your area.
Anymore I can be reach at my number below if you have any questions.
Wash
Clay
Correction if needed
Sealant x 2
Wax X 2
I would go with Blackfire Wet Diamond x 2 and then top it off with Collinite Wax x 2 for the best in protection for your area.
Anymore I can be reach at my number below if you have any questions.
#4
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I think most new cars can benefit from clay and fresh sealant and wax. My dealer was particularly good on delivering a defect free finish but you should at least wash and then test to see if clay is needed. After you dry the car draw your dry fingers lightly over the paint on the hood and if you feel any roughness it will need to be clayed. If you want to prep for winter I would suggest a sealant followed by a topcoat of pure carnauba. Be sure that there are no cleaners in the carnauba or you will be removing some of all of the sealant.
My favorite combination for winter protection is 2 coats of sealant (Meg's M21) followed by two coats of carnauba (Meg's M16) This has served me well through many Wisconsin winters. Easily lasts through 6 months of the worst nature can throw at it. Road salt is abundant here so I typically run the RX through a Touchless Laserwash every week or two. I follow that wash with a UQD wipe down and an UQW application. The car sheds snow and dirt much easier with this refresher wax.
My favorite combination for winter protection is 2 coats of sealant (Meg's M21) followed by two coats of carnauba (Meg's M16) This has served me well through many Wisconsin winters. Easily lasts through 6 months of the worst nature can throw at it. Road salt is abundant here so I typically run the RX through a Touchless Laserwash every week or two. I follow that wash with a UQD wipe down and an UQW application. The car sheds snow and dirt much easier with this refresher wax.
#6
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Car wash detergents are kind of hard on a wax or sealant but a clean car is better than a salt encrusted dirty car any day. The Meg's UQW I use is a wipe-on/wipe-off product that is like using a QD. It only takes about 15 minutes to do a SUV. You don't need to be careful around emblems or textured plastic as it doesn't stain. In fact, it looks great on the vinyl and plastic. Simply spray it on, wipe and buff with a mf and your done.
#7
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I live in upstate NY so I can relate to harsh weather condition. Dealer preps are notorious for very low quality work. This doesn't mean all of them but most detailers at dealerships don't use quality products and techniques. Generally a natural carnauba wax only lasts 2 - 6 weeks. Sealants are essentially artificial waxes that are applied the same way. They last about 3 - 6 months and offer a great shine while easy to apply.
1.) If you wash the car with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash it will remove the old wax. A sealant would be a much better form of protection. Try applying a coat or two of the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger.
2.) Use the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard to protect your carpets/fabrics. Just spray it on your carpets and it will help repel those nasty salt stains.
3.) Spray the 303 Aerospace Protectant on a microfiber towel and wipe down virtually anything that is vinyl, plastic, rubber or leather. I love it on the dashboard, console, cup holders, rubber seals, engine bay, doors, arm rests, etc. It adds a dark new finish, helps protect against UV rays and other contaminants, so those surfaces are looking new year round.
4.) If you need to wash in the winter make sure you wash with the Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR). Just pour in a few drops of the ONR in your 5 Gal bucket of water, start washing and you are done. You don't need to rinse the vehicle so it's one of the only ways to wash in really cold weather or if you life at an apartment complex. We also are offering 25% off on this product through November.
If you have any other questions please let me know.
Greg @ DI
1.) If you wash the car with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash it will remove the old wax. A sealant would be a much better form of protection. Try applying a coat or two of the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger.
2.) Use the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard to protect your carpets/fabrics. Just spray it on your carpets and it will help repel those nasty salt stains.
3.) Spray the 303 Aerospace Protectant on a microfiber towel and wipe down virtually anything that is vinyl, plastic, rubber or leather. I love it on the dashboard, console, cup holders, rubber seals, engine bay, doors, arm rests, etc. It adds a dark new finish, helps protect against UV rays and other contaminants, so those surfaces are looking new year round.
4.) If you need to wash in the winter make sure you wash with the Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR). Just pour in a few drops of the ONR in your 5 Gal bucket of water, start washing and you are done. You don't need to rinse the vehicle so it's one of the only ways to wash in really cold weather or if you life at an apartment complex. We also are offering 25% off on this product through November.
If you have any other questions please let me know.
Greg @ DI
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#8
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Wow, I am really impressed by all the detailed and high quality responses to my question. I'm printing all these out so I can keep the information. I'll start gathering some of the materials and then wait for the next reasonably nice day to get it done. I like the idea of a wipe on, wipe off product that does not leave swirls. My new car is black and the last time I tried a rub wax on a black car I left swirls that made me cry. I'm too cheap and scared to use a real buffer but I am planning to buy a Porter-Cable polisher that I've heard is much safer. Again, I really appreciate the knowledgeable responses.
#10
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Always use the highest quality of materials, applicators and microfibers, and keep them impeccably clean.
Don't skimp on these materials or you will regret it
BTW, welcome to the forum, Krafty.
#11
Intermediate
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Ditto on the Collonite (Fleetwax 885) from post #3 !!
I just replaced my 07 Es350 with a 10 Es350.
Witihin a week of picking it up, I took advantage of the warm weekend (65f) and put on the Collonite.
Just be sure as per instructions...DON'T LET IT DRY TO A HAZE !!
If you leave it on too long, it is a total b*%ch to get off.
It's got good durability too.
I just replaced my 07 Es350 with a 10 Es350.
Witihin a week of picking it up, I took advantage of the warm weekend (65f) and put on the Collonite.
Just be sure as per instructions...DON'T LET IT DRY TO A HAZE !!
If you leave it on too long, it is a total b*%ch to get off.
It's got good durability too.
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